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simon a-b

removing motor/gearbox

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Hi all,

I've been through the forum on this topic, so I'm fairly aware of what to look out for... and am almost ready to do the deed. 

It's coming out as part of my reno, I want to do the belt, clean it all up, check the tanks, replace the seatbelts, do the firewall tightening tweak etc etc etc.  I've not got the best work environment now (moved house from the great shed I had to work in) and haven't decided what to lift from yet, will probably be a tree!  I'll have access to an engine crane too so we will see how that pans out. 

I have a couple of questions...

 

I can't find an engine coolant diagram, there is a long hose that runs to the rear of the head, I'm guessing it was coolant? 

 

I've had to take the top off the thermostat as the hose was frozen in place, will gasket goo do the job when I reassemble?

 

There is a choice with the driveshafts; keep the brakes on the box or take them off... any opinions either way?

 

so far I've disconnected/removed:

 

reverse switch

top of thermostat

clutch

power to starter solenoid

main earth

speedo cable

oil gauge

wire connected to thermostat (temp gauge feed?)

 

still to do:

oil cooler hoses (or feed plate if I dont' get anywhere with the hoses)

gear linkage

 

problems

exhaust from the manifold; the main silencer is off and I've refurbed the mounting bracket, I'll be grinding the last bolt off the manifold/exhaust junction...

and

is there another coolant hose at the front of the block?

 

Once it's out I'll be doing a general tidy in the bay, cleaning, painting, etc etc.  I'll also be sorting a bracket for the aircon compressor... if anyone has pics of theirs that would be very helpful...

cheers,

Simon

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Hi Simon, I have just completed the same task on my S3, just a tip for you check the reach on your engine crane I tried two before I found one that had enough reach then i purchased a new one and had it extended by 4" and that only just made it, also when doing the rebuild make sure the long heater hose does not get caught up round the right hand engine mount as you will find it is then to short I can send some pics if you want.

John.

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pics would be very helpful... the reach issue is why I'm thinking a stout branch on one of our gum trees might do the trick; I'll have a standard engine crane too.

is that heater hose connected to the back of the head?  I've taken a hose off there and I guess it's water; is there another hose connected at the front of the motor?  I've taken the top one off (by removing the thermostat housing as I couldn't get the hose off...

cheers,

simon

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There's a heater hose (the one that supplies the heater) at the back of the head. The small hoses at the front are vacuum hoses for the brake servo and heater vent controls. There's a heater hose (the one from the heater) which goes on the water pump at the front, plus two larger diameter ones. The parts list has some good exploded diagrams...free on this site if you're a full account holder.

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The parts list is pretty good!  Also the usual good resource of LEW.  Callipers are off, drive shafts are off (would you be worried that these weren't very tight at all?), I'll be checking hoses in the morning then marking up the boot lit ready to take it off. 

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I would be concerned about the drive shafts, the socket headed fasteners should be torqued to 60 lbs-ft. Needs a male hex drive socket on the torque wrench on reassembly.

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Engine out and almost clean, same for the engine bay.  The drive shafts were definitely not 60lbs-ft!  I'll retorque carefully...

 

some questions...

 

Would you replace all enigine/gearbox mounts as a matter of course?  Three of the four need it, but the passenger side gearbox mount looks fine... not expensive, but a waste if unneccessary! 

 

Should there have been a heat shield on the passenger side engine mount (exhaust side)? 

 

I can't get all the exhaust manifold bolts off (v. badly corroded), I want to replace them all with new studs/bolts, any problem you can see with cutting them?  should be enough stud left after the manifold is off to grip with vice grips...

 

As usual, thanks for any advice!

Simon

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Personaly I would replace.  Its easier to do now.  If you are doing 3 anyway do 4 and you know it will be as smooth as its possable to be.  I would always worry that the one old one starting to fail would start to put extra pressure on the other 3 new leading to their early failure. 

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As for the exhaust studs...my head had turned to friable crap around the exhaust studs, which literally fell out!! Loads of aluminium welding by one of those old timer specialist engineering shops who have disappeared in the past 30 odd years. If you don't cut the studs they are liable to shear if you try to unscrew them. It depends whether the nuts are still nicely hexagonal and what spanner you can get onto them. Heat helps...applying an oxyacetylene torch to the top of each "stuck" stud often enables the nuts to be removed, but you have to be careful not to melt or otherwise damage the head. This sort of heat is also good for getting the studs out of the head,again great care is advised...but it does work. In the final ruin, the studs shear off flush with the head at which point you take it to one of the aforementioned specialist engine shops and ask them nicely to sort it out...or you could try drilling the studs yourself, but I think you'd need to have done this job successfully a few times first!! All the "stud remover" reverse threaded tools are usually useless, as if you've snapped the stud there is no way that these tools can exert any more torque.

I think I'd try heat to get the nuts off...squirting WD 40 on them helps, too...and once they were off I'd heat the studs and unscrew them from the head. Heating them up and then cooling them down rapidly by squirting then with water or WD40 (but mind the fumes!)often releases the stud from the female thread. All of these sort of tasks require thought and experimentation! It's half the fun.....

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sounds pretty awful.  I'll try some heat first and try to get the nut/stud unscrewed, loads of wd40 and some fingers crossed...

cheers,

Simon

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A bit of an old trick with knackered nuts is to screw down a new one very tightly against the original and then having sprayed everything with penetrating oil over a few days try to get a bit of a grip against the old nut and with luck the stud may turn. If there is enough thread visible I would try two good nuts with a spring washer between and then turn the bottom nut against the top one and hope the stud loosens its grip.

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