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simon a-b

draining tanks and breather hoses

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Hi all, what's the best way to drain the tanks?

I'll be replacing the breather arrangement with new hose, and try to avoid an incompatible glue when I retrim the bulkhead.  Can anyone who's done this job advise on hose/glue combinations?

Thanks in advance

Simon

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I ran the pump and pumped them out.  I've left the filler caps off to let any remains evaporate, I'll crack the bottom bolt tomorrow and expect a bit to drain out.  Then tanks out!  I'm hoping for not too much corrosion then a POR15 paint job.

Anyone got advice on the breather hoses?

Cheers,

Simon

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So... passenger side banjo removed, remaining bit of fuel drained out.  plenty of comments about removing tanks being difficult, nothing about getting the big rubber hose off!  I've given up for the moment.  On the plus side the tank doesn't look too bad (the bits I can see) but as it moved around with me yanking at the big hose I hear rust flakes falling softly like snow...

The only thing I can think of is wrapping hot cloths around it to try to soften it a bit, anything better anyone can think of?

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Why not cut the big hose off and replace that with new as well?

 

Ged

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Yes...it's not easy to get off, is it???!! IIRC, I took the fuel fillers off the car...they came out of the hoses with a bit of encouragement and then the hoses came off the tanks. I'm not sure that you CAN get the hoses off with the fillers in place! They are held on to the car by self tappers, 4 on each side...might be 3, can't remember. The LH tank is the worst, the RH one comes out OK...you'll have to undo the seat belt reel covers and perhaps the reels as well...the LH one needs the engine moved for clearance otherwise it won't fit between the cam cover and the chassis.

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Hi

I took my tanks out this weekend and took off the fuel fillers as John describes above. A bit of a twist and off they popped, without too much trouble. I also found that the seat carriers had to be removed along with the air intake flange. Once all this was off the tanks came out with a bit of jiggery pokery, but I have the engine out of my car at the moment, which makes things easier I think. The right hand one was a bit harder than the left hand one.

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I just had a look this evening and agree.  My fuel filler (at least on the lhs) is rivets and a corroded metal ring.  Good opportunity to tidy that up too with some fuel resistant paint. I'll drill the rivets out and go from there; the force I'm putting on the filler assembly trying to pull the hose off is flexing the shell horribly!

Engine is out, seat belts are being replaced  so are off (no sun-faded belts to spoil the new interior); this is meant to be easy with all that gone!

Cheers,

Simon

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Well that worked fine.  Left hand tank out.  Still not easy to remove with engine, all covers, seatbelts etc gone.  Can't imagine trying to do it with everything in! Condition looks pretty good, some surface rust in places.  Seems the conventional wisdom is to change the foam for closed cell stuff?  Can't hurt I guess, we have a good foam place in town. 

I do love the plastic car, once you get a part removed the space it was in can be cleaned to pretty much perfect... instead of treating rust etc.  Interesting to see that there was broken glass there, at some time the rear quarter window must have been smashed. 

I'll give both tanks (assuming condition for both is as this one) a wire brush then the POR treatment before putting them back in. Is it advisable to paint the inside too?  I guess you could slosh paint around - would be pretty messy... any thoughts?

Cheers,

Simon

Edited by simon a-b

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I wouldn't paint inside the tanks. I think it could easily either flake off and get chunks of paint into the filter system...or dissolve in the fuel and gum everything up. In the UK, you can get fuel tank sealing gunk...

http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-deluxe-car-tank-repair-kit.html?gclid=CMzBnovcx7YCFc3HtAodqVUAvA

I did intend to do this to some tanks for mine, but they turned out to be too rusty for any viable treatment so I ended up with alloy tanks instead.

As an aside, regarding flakes of stuff in the fuel, I once did several forced landings in a Tiger Moth because of this...on the ground, the muck went to the back of the tank (the upper wing centre section) but, in flight, it shifted about and stopped the fuel flow. Of course, back on the ground it was fine again.......hence the multiple forced landings until we sussed it!

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I started removing my tanks today too. Not actually got to taking them out yet, but getting the hoses off was tough (ended up cutting mine as well, which was also easier said then done as they were thick!) and most of the fuel drained.  Just the rest of the fuel to remove, and then tanks out.  Everything is in my car (like the engine) so am not expecting an easy ride..

 

As a follow up to Johns comment, I purchased two second hand tanks so I could remove/replace immediately.  I purchased the POR 15 stuff from frosts.  The marine clean product may have got rid of the gum/muck but couldn't touch the rust.  Tanks are currently away being chemically cleaned internally by a guy who also uses a camera to check in the back section of the tank which isn't visible at all.  With hindsight, the cost is now the same as buying new tanks so that would have been my route if doing it again.

Edited by Nelly9000

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Not quite as exciting as forced landings in a Tiger Moth... but once put the floats into a set of Honda 750 4 carbs upside down.  fuel would trickle into the float bowl, the bike would idle and run for a couple of hundred meters then stop.  We stood around, scratched our heads, did some small meaningless change and the bike would run again... thought we'd fixed it but the bowls had just had time to fill a bit.  Repeat too many times.  Took a while to find that one!

cheers,

Simon

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Nelly, 

 

  How did the removal of the tanks go?  Did you manage to get them out without pulling the engine?  I've got an S1 that will be needing the tanks replaced, but I'd rather not have to pull out the whole engine. 

 

 

 

 

I started removing my tanks today too. Not actually got to taking them out yet, but getting the hoses off was tough (ended up cutting mine as well, which was also easier said then done as they were thick!) and most of the fuel drained.  Just the rest of the fuel to remove, and then tanks out.  Everything is in my car (like the engine) so am not expecting an easy ride..

 

As a follow up to Johns comment, I purchased two second hand tanks so I could remove/replace immediately.  I purchased the POR 15 stuff from frosts.  The marine clean product may have got rid of the gum/muck but couldn't touch the rust.  Tanks are currently away being chemically cleaned internally by a guy who also uses a camera to check in the back section of the tank which isn't visible at all.  With hindsight, the cost is now the same as buying new tanks so that would have been my route if doing it again.

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Yes I got them out with the engine in place.  The S1 should be the same as the S2 - HOWEVER if you have an early S1 the metal filler neck on the tank is longer, and I would think that would make it more difficult.  Later S1's and all S2's had a shorter filler neck and that makes life so much easier.

 

Once all the hoses are off the tank, banjo bolts/fuel lines disconnected from underneath and bolts holding the tank to the bodywork, its simply a case of twisting and turning until you get them out - there is a certain way which gets them out which I seem to remember involved turning the tank upside down to finally get it out.  You will also need to undo the seatbelts as well and pulled them up onto the roof too.

 

Installation is the reverse, but I got new tanks from SJ which are slightly smaller and that helped massively.

 

Good luck!

Edited by Nelly9000
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