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Hi Torque starter

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I am about to order a hi torque starter for the S3.

The current one works but struggles in the cold. It will be a good spare though.

 

I have identified the Powerlite one as being suitable, RAC415, costing around £160.

 

Does anyone have any experience of this unit or other ones?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

 

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Is that a hi torque one? site does not say. The one for the excel is but its a different model code.

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Before investing in a new starter it's worth checking all the electrical connections. Especially the engine earth to chassis.

It's also worth checking the battery too if it has less than 12.4v as a static charge it could be on it's way out.

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Mine starts up by just turning past TDC once...we don't do protracted cranking. I can't see any need for high torque starters, personally.

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Thanks chaps, above noted. All the connections are fine and the battery is new and tested.

 

Took the plunge and got the Powerlite model - its RAC415 (for all but the V8 cars apparaently)

This cost £160 inc VAT from autoelectricsupplies. Free delivery (came next day)

 

Fitting was easy really, main bug bear was having to remove the airbox - I hate that job with those fiddly trumpet nuts!

The unit is tiny in comparison to the original so it gives loads of space for when changing the oil filter - a tight job otherwise.

Wiring - a doddle. Main red cable and alternator cable to the main terminal and the switch wire to the single connector. That leave one additional wire that is not needed so just taped off.

The difference is, well, here is a short video of the difference.

 

th_Starterupgrade_zps865803a8.jpg

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Good work! If nothing else looks the changing the oil filter is going to be easier!

 

Buddsy

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I too have took the plunge now after problems with the solenoid playing up, I have to say there is lots of room now to remove the filter :)

Unfortunately, I cannot start the car .... Both the alternator and battery leads are 2" too short now!! :(

I take it that the small spaded yellow/white wire is no longer used and you just connect the slightly thicker yellow/red spaded wire to the starter?

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An interesting video. Listening to the "before" version, I'd be prepared to bet that the engine ignition is too far advanced when stationary...the bob weight springs aren't setting the intial conditions correctly or there is something wrong with the adjustment. You can hear the engine start to rotate, then a pause as the plug fires too early and the engine tries to run backwards against the power of the starter. The new high torque starter has enough power to overcome this, so disguising the true problem. I would have loved to hear the original starter cranking the engine with the plug leads off or the ignition otherwise disabled....I think it would have cranked away happily.

 

I've been there before...(!)

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My starter motor packed up recently and a highly recommended auto electrician rebuilt it with new solenoid etc for £80. I mentioned I had thought about a high torque motor as a replacement and he wasnt overly impressed by them. Didnt elaborate further. 

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I had to modify the battery lead a bit to get her going today, was going to get new leads from deamon tweaks but luckily I checked the website first .... Closed for Good Friday.

Anyway, cold start was the same as usual, within half a turn :) so I took her for a spirited drive to see If I had improved the misfire when hot and if the engine turns over faster when trying to hot start (always took its time but never failed), I stopped the car, gave her ten mins then tried to start her - bit of a heart wrenching moment when she just turned over and over, nice that it was faster than normal but not that it took 7 attempts at cranking to get her to spring to life!

On the good side, she only hiccuped a couple of times, much better which may be due to fitting a better starter to alternator lead as the connector was loose and in poor shape?

Wow! There is lots of room for the filter now !

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I fitted a high torque unit last year after the standard unit basically disintigrated, starts first turn and as others have said loads of room.

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 interesting point about to much static advance.  I have set this as per the manual instructions but during my ignition exploration, I too kept wondering if it was too far advanced. Since that video, I have fixed the loose vacuum advance mechanism since I have no vacuum advance.  Although the car now starts I'm not convinced is that much different to the condition in the video. Might fiddle a bit more. ..

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I've bought one of these for my S1 but as well as the 1 spade connector wire, the old starter has a

Half a dozen wires going to the main nut connection in addition to the positive lead from the battery. These all attach to a star shaped bracket that bolts to the starter. I assume I can just attach this the same way to the new starter motor?

I've bought one of these for my S1 but as well as the 1 spade connector wire, the old starter has a

Half a dozen wires going to the main nut connection in addition to the positive lead from the battery. These all attach to a star shaped bracket that bolts to the starter. I assume I can just attach this the same way to the new starter motor?

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Wiring - a doddle. Main red cable and alternator cable to the main terminal and the switch wire to the single connector. That leave one additional wire that is not needed so just taped off.

Ever since the starter was fitted to my car, starting has been a bit of a problem!

The engine turns over great but it's a bugger to start especially when warm. :(

Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the additional wire - the smaller white/yellow that is now taped up is the wire that connects to the coil to give it a 12v boost under cranking. Or am I reading it wrong?

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Well, that's interesting!

I too am not totally sure I have solved my starting issue either.

 

If I connect a power pack, no trouble at all.(barring the hot start, but left for a while,  issue thats always been there)

 

I was about to start to investigate the alternator this weekend but I might revisit that little wire. Where exactly does the diagram say it goes - cant find mine?

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The high torque starters dont have the auxiliary contact which the original ones have so there wont be the full 12 volts applied to the coil when starting. This would make starting more difficult which defeats the object of replacing the starter.

 

I would think mostly these starters are fitted unnecessarily and just mask a wiring or other problem. Having said that, they are much neater and smaller. My car has one which the PO had fitted, a Powerlite. But if fitting one, something needs to be done about the auxiliary contact. There are two workarounds for this, either using a diode or a relay. The instructions for the starter should cover this and if they dont its a case of getting back to the suppliers because they are selling something which is not really suitable. They should include the relay or diode with the unit, and instructions, if they are supplying a drop-in replacement.

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Ok, now I've looked at the s3 wiring diagram, the wire is not shown?

If you look on the turbo diagram ( I use the Essex lsl 239 on p439 of the digital manual) it shows the wire coming off the starter to the coil. As andy says above, relay or fit a diode, there is a third option, a momentary button on the dash that connects the coil to 12v when pressed.

I popped over to see an electrician in my old building at work and asked about fitting a diode, he said it sounds like it's the problem and gave me a diode :) going to fit it tomorrow, just need to find a piggyback spade connector to fit to the starter wire

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Fitted the diode, didn't have the keys on me to start it, so will post the results when I get chance to get back to the car :)

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Woo hoo :D it worked ! :thumbsup:

I now have renewed confidence of the car starting after a stop :)

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Yes, I need detailed info on what you put in and how!!

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Sorry about the quality of the photo, had to use my 3GS as my 4s battery ran out ....

post-176-0-33361100-1410604950.jpg

The diode is a 6a40 standard one, will handle 6amps and 400v apparently so should have no probs with 12v!

I did put heat shrink around the one I made and fitted to neaten up, waterproof and strengthen the install.

Disconnect the starting red/white wire from the starter, Attach the piggy-Back of the made adapter to the starter then reconnect the the starter wire to the piggy-back. Finally connect the small white/yellow wire to the other end of the adapter.... Done

Edited by Dodgy
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Make sure you fit the diode the right way round.... ! It would also be a good idea to secure the whole adaptor somehow, to stop it flapping around and fracturing the solid diode leads....the heatshrink would help.

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