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Scotty2

Gearchange Setting Up.

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Despite fitting an upgraded selector kit albeit a couple of years ago, since recommissioning after a couple of years off the road, the gearchange is not at all good.

 

At the Pistonheads Sunday Service today I finally lost reverse gear and had to push her to get out of my parking place!

 

Any tips on setting up, improvements? I have finally got the car running beautifully and resprayed and now the gearchange is spoiling the fun.

 

I cannot get reverse and it wants to go into third rather than first.

 

post-4255-0-72974000-1368380282.jpg

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I can't help you much, as my beast uses the Citroen gearbox and yours will be the Renault. Have you looked at this...

 

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/ETechnical/Gearshift.html

 

Might help...your best bet is to work slowly through the linkage; get someone to move the lever about, carefully, with the engine stopped whilst you grovel underneath and watch the gearbox end of the linkage. You are looking for any looseness or wobbly bits. Have a good look at the parts list and service notes and get a good idea of how the thing works, then analyse what you see underneath .... then fix the bits that aren't right! Careful, logical progression will enable you to sort it out... good luck!! 

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Thanks. I have been looking at LEW but hadn't seen that page. Just frustrating to have everything else sorted just to be spoiled by a few washers and bushes! Will have to see what bit is playing up. As you say methodically check the system. I'm just short of spare time at the moment...

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Sounds like the linkages at the gearbox end have worked loose, mine did this a while back I readjusted and used thread lock so it would stay where it needed to be, Take the boot floor out so you can see it easy, and then adjust as needed.

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Been under the car today to look at linkages. Look OK. Both cables look like they have exploded!

 

The heat has burnt off the sheath and a couple of years of rust have destroyed the outer cable. It's a wonder I could get any gears at all!!. Feel better now I've found the problem as all the parts add up to quite a sum when repalcing them all...

 

Off to source gear cables...

Edited by Scotty2

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Have you found out why?

 

This happened to my SE and it was because some muppet (Troy!) fitted the turbo without the gaskets and the exhaust gases were leaking out over the cables as they crossed the gearbox. 

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Ah, happy days...

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The 'Days of Hammers' I recall them as :D

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Got some interesting and informative pics somewhere.  A sort of 'How NOT to'.

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Update:

 

New cables fitted and the car is transformed. They must have been on there way out for some time. Car is a pleasure to drive now and I have been putting some miles in. I can even reverse!

 

Now the air con...

 

 

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Scott, where did you get your cables from and how much, if you don't mind asking? I suspected mine are at fault...

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The cables are expensive (approx £100 each IIRC) and rarely are they the problem.  Worth checking first by disconnecting them at the gearbox end and ensuring they travel freely in their sleeves.

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Cheers Sparky.

 

I'm refurbing the gear change and having a bit of a nightmare in setting it up. I have replaced everything at the master and greased where necessary, and replaced the bearings and tie-rods at the translator, but still moving the gear stick right to left is far to difficult. .

 

Here's a few things of note:

 

- the cable are connected to the correct sides (as they cross over).

- with the cables disconnected at the translator, the gear stick is free to move in any direction and quite loose.

- even with new bearings in the translator, the shaft doesn't seem to rotate a full 360 without a little resistance in rotation changing. It seems to be free'r in the rotation it would normally travel when a gear is selected, weird. Both old bearings were cracked on inspection once I removed them. I removed the new bearings again and they checked out fine. How tight should the translator be in rotation?

- with the gear stick held in one position (neutral between 3rd and 4th) I can pull on each gear cable about 5mm before any pull is felt on the gear stick.

- the outer protection of the gear cables is worn in parts, one cable in particular. Where the cables turn near the turbo and down to the translator, the red protection has cracked away and the steel wire armour showing rust. 

 

As mentioned before, getting 1st, 3rd, 5th and reverse is a nightmare. A couple of days after work I've been at it now, followed the service manual (4mm offset etc) but still no further forward. I've read many threads on here about improving the gear change, and that it should be so much better. Some folk got results by changing the cables.

 

All help appreciated! 

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Got some interesting and informative pics somewhere.  A sort of 'How NOT to'.

That brings back memories, I seem to recall making a comment about it may last long enough to get you home and to have them replaced immediately on returning home, but somehow they were left in place for months afterwards.

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Well after some WD40 poured down the gear cables, and a lot time setting up, gear change is sweet.

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With the gear cables another tip is to hang 'em off the side of your house and let some gearbox oil trickle down the sleeve at the top - works wonders. :D

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Vanya, it was yourself that gave me the idea of lubricating the gear cables! Don't know if it helped, but cheers.

 

I think the slightest resistance is magnified and it all adds up, causing problems shifting. So every little bit you do helps, just my thoughts tho'!

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With the gear cables another tip is to hang 'em off the side of your house and let some gearbox oil trickle down the sleeve at the top - works wonders. :D

Or you can use a bike cable oiler  :thumbsup:

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John - that seems like a brilliant little gadget. I think I'll nab one - gotta grease the throttle cable sleeve as it's also a bit rough. More efficient than manually pouring down Syntrans with the inevitable spillage that follows.

 

Alan - I got lucky with my cables as when one end was moved the opposite end responded immediately - I can imagine any sticking being a major pain in the ass. Any amount of free play in the system is simply magnified at the stick which makes the car feel terrible - I only wish I could eliminate the slack inside the gearbox itself - then we'd be talking world class gearshift.

Edited by Vanya

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John, funnily enough I mentioned to someone at work that I lubricated the cables, and they said exactly what you recommended. In fact, they are lending me a bike cable oiler so it looks like I'll have the cables disconnected again this weekend. He also mentioned that I'd be surprised at the crap that will invariably come out the other end.

 

The WD40 may have free'd the cables but it may not last long so it's definitely a job I'll be doing. The beauty is that the cables don't have to be removed to oil them. Any recommendations on oil? Mobile 1 for the engine, Mobile 1 for the gear cables :) !

 

Vanya, I think the play in the cables was mis-interpreted by myself. I was pulling the cables while the other half held my the knob ( :) ) so it was difficult to tell. It may have simply been me looking for a problem and jumping to any conclusion. I owe Sparky a pint as I don't have to buy new gear cables, although they do look pretty simple to replace, but at £250 a pair...

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John - that seems like a brilliant little gadget. I think I'll nab one - gotta grease the throttle cable sleeve as it's also a bit rough. More efficient than manually pouring down Syntrans with the inevitable spillage that follows.

I think you'll find grease in the throttle cable sleeve will be too thick causing the throttle to close very slowly, use a light oil & do it regularly, the company advertising the oiler suggests three in one which is not much thicker than water.  :thumbup:

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