free hit
counters
Heater not working - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

Recommended Posts

A year ago I flushed the heater matrix and have connected it all up and filled the cooling system.  Fan works but no heat coming out of the blower box. The control knob turns and I can see it moving the valve. Do I need to bleed the pipe to the matrix ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Could be an air lock?

Edited by rizla603104

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My heater comes and goes.

I was going up a steep hill yesterday and it suddenly started to blow hot again! Reverse to 'burping' but unless its a coincidence, I suspect an airlock.

 

IIRC, the burping routine involves jacking up the back of the car to drive out air.

 

(Does the heater system have a thermostat? I dont recall seeing one.)

When I had mine all apart, I reconnected the heater controls in reverse. I had some very odd behavior then!

Check that the recirculation flap opens and closes as the controls suggest it should. Engine must be running.

Also, check all of your vacuum lines are working and connected. 

Can you get to the heater in and out pipes? If both are hot, its probably not the matrix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried the windscreen/foot vents? Remember the face vents only blow cold...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 The control knob turns and I can see it moving the valve. 

You need to check out the vacuum lines for continuity, are the flaps moving when the valves are opened/closed??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All sorted, I popped one hose  of at the matrix and bleed the air out.  Lovely and toasty now.  However last night I did find a nylon bleed valve on ebay advertised for use on caterhams but once installed that's going to be as much of a pain to get to as popping the hose off. 

 

The flap under the bonnet takes about 3 seconds from up to down  is that about  correct?

Edited by mdw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All sorted, I popped one hose  of at the matrix and bleed the air out.  Lovely and toasty now.  However last night I did find a nylon bleed valve on ebay advertised for use on caterhams but once installed that's going to be as much of a pain to get to as popping the hose off. 

 

The flap under the bonnet takes about 3 seconds from up to down  is that about  correct?

Any chance of a pic of the hoses that you speak of?...fed up of being cold :D

Edited by Emlyn Taylor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The heater valve is bolted to the top of the pedal box. It that's at fault you are going to have to remove the whole pedal box. The service manual says you can access through the fuse box hole in the bulkhead but I am pretty sure you can only do that on a l/h drive car.

The 2 hoses are circled.

post-1261-0-43449000-1369341149.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry it should say IF its that at fault you will have to remove the pedal box.

One thing I found handy was a USB endoscope I bought from ebay for £30. Plug it into the laptop and I could see down the pipes for the heater matrix and see they were clear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Mutley00

The heater valve is bolted to the top of the pedal box. It that's at fault you are going to have to remove the whole pedal box. The service manual says you can access through the fuse box hole in the bulkhead but I am pretty sure you can only do that on a l/h drive car.

The 2 hoses are circled.

Malcolm, Which of the two hoses is the one carrying water out of the matrix, which presumably is the one who's jubilee clip you have to slacken to bleed the matrix if there's air in there? I presume its the top one as warm water rises? Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at my pic the lower of the 2 circles is actually the highest point so probably that one. I undid both so I could make sure I was getting coolant through the heater valve ( follow the higher circled pipe down to the copper valve if you see what I mean) and look down both into the matrix.  The valve is bolted to the top of the pedal box.  There isn't a lot of room in there!!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Mutley00

Do you bleed it with the engine hot & running? I was proposing to slacked off the jubilee, release the hose and get STMBO to slowly turn the heater control from cold to hot,  wait for the first sign of coolant & get her to turn it back to cold sharpish?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think ( but am not sure) you can do it cold. I had no carpet or dash in place so it didn't matter what spilled out. I would just leave the control on hot  and crack off the upper ( on the car) pipe and see what happens. Chuck an old towel in the foot well. From memory they were tight and theres not a lot of space to get your hands in to twist them  plus remember its only copper pipe which wont take too much yanking about. Try and get a squirt of WD40 in there to break the copper to rubber join.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×