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red vtec

Radiator pack removal?

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how easy is this to remove? I have just removed the stays they are in good order but one was hanging off. I have repaired the shroud with some carbon fibre I had in the garage. But on looking into it further, the fans are not fixed at the top and it also appears that the rad is loose. This explains all the crashing noise from the front end.

 

It has a sticker on the rad saying barnstaple radiators so I bet it's been replaced but not fitted correctly.

 

Do I need to take the whole cooling pack out to secure it all correctly?

 

thanks

 

Chris

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I would drop the lot and sort it out then you cans see what you have got.  However its a bit of a job.  Front under tray bolts go up throught the grill ( well the did on my n/a) into the front bonnet area. Its a heavy lump to come out but once out you can tidy it all up. All the bolts will need grinding off and replacing with stainless.  My fan shroud was falling of and rad/fans were a gonner anyway.

I had a triple row core fitted and new fans which fit straight to the matrix ( will see how well they last or if they damage the matrix).  Probably should have fitted the stainless rad frame from esprit engeneering but repaired mine instead as it cost a fair bit. Binned the shroud. Got new fans from Car builder Solutions in Staplehurst Kent. They are so fierce that small children and dogs may end up being sucked  through  the rad grill if they get too close.

post-1261-0-22903900-1370616543.jpg

post-1261-0-89356600-1370616555.jpg

Edited by mdw

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how much room do i need under the car to get the pack out? the radiator looks ok, its just not fixed in :(

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About  12" higher than it is now should give you enough room with the front  wheels off.  There are 3-4 bolts each side around the headlamp motor/ wheel arch area plus the ones across the front. I just ground the lot off. The front ones are long and go right through the rad intake area in sleves.  Its really a easy 2 man job to drop it due to size and weight or lots of swearing one man job.

 

The only other pain is oil cooler.  The n/a is bolted through the rad tray. Turbos may be in the sides?

 

Whilst you are under there Chris  could you tell me the diameter of the support tubes as mine have disappeared altogether!! and I need to make some up.

Thanks

Edited by mdw

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Malc, Kenlowe do a 'suspension' kit which adds some dampener springs on their fans which also fit directly to the matrix. When the rac was replaced in my SE, they weren't fitted but Sparky added them in so I'm thinking you might want to install some...

 

This kinda thing...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FAN-FITTING-MOUNTING-KIT-FOR-SPAL-KENLOWE-PACET-ETC-/180584907641

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Right got it all undone! all bolts came off easy.

 

now to remove the pack I need to dissconect  the oil cooler as it bolts through the shroud as yours does, also I need to disconect the A/c This is empty at the mo or at least very low, and then the radiator,

 

what is the best way to go about this?

 

I'll measure the supports up as mine were in one piece i've just wire brushed them and a coat of metal paint

 

Thanks

Chris

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How tight should the radiator be i n it's frame? mines loose, or is like this for expansion?

 

I'll have a proper look when I have the pack fully out

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mdw

"Whilst you are under there Chris could you tell me the diameter of the support tubes as mine have disappeared altogether!! and I need to make some up."

I made some for sues using 15 mm copper pipe which was then easy to flatten in a vice and drill.

Bear in mind that the flats are at 90 degrees to each other.

Working on the basis that they are not load bearing merely adding a little stiffness and steadying I thought they would be ok. Two years after I fitted them they were still fine.

Make sure you use shake proof / nyloc nuts to hold them in place though

John

Red vtec

The radiator on the 84 car is held in place by bolts through the glass fibre housing into captive nuts on the edge of the radiator frame.

If those nuts have failed or the frame has collapsed it will flap around in the breeze

John

Edited by Mr_John111

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The frame is solid and bolted in well, it's the actual rad in the frame that is moving.

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Definitely shouldn't move within the frame.....

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Malc, Kenlowe do a 'suspension' kit which adds some dampener springs on their fans which also fit directly to the matrix. When the rac was replaced in my SE, they weren't fitted but Sparky added them in so I'm thinking you might want to install some...

 

This kinda thing...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FAN-FITTING-MOUNTING-KIT-FOR-SPAL-KENLOWE-PACET-ETC-/180584907641

Cheers Bibs 3 sets ordered. :thumbsup:

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Excellent move. It'll add some time to the rads life, all good :)

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Radiator.jpg

What it should look like.

DSC_6721.jpg

A typical stay problem.

DSC_7036.jpg

My solution. It's turned out to be more rigid and less likely to break.

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Cheers John and Roger re the stays.

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Mine is all out now, what amazed me is it's all unbroken apart from the actual radiator undertray just the chimp who replaced the rad has has not put any of it together correctly.

 

The undertray is cracked where the stays bolt on, so i'm going to reglass, but also glass in some metal to make it stronger. I'm also going to bolt the stays through from underneath, so they support the undertray rather than sit on the top of it.

 

also where the rad sits in the frame, does it have any foam cushining? as my rad seems slightly loose in the frame. I know it has foam above and below the frame.

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There should be metal sheet in the fibreglass shroud anyhow as standard, I replaced with stainless.. The stays on mine were bolted underneath anyhoe (inless im short on memory and ive forgotten..) and there is foam on the rad..hence why the frame rots!

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Hi,

 

Can't see any metal in my undertray, either wasn't there or it's long gone, I was also going to put a sheet of CF in for extra strength.

 

I was going to use some closed cell foam for below and above the rad, does that sound ok?, I have also resprayed the rad and given the frame a heavy coat of hammerite for a bit of protection.

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To be fair the only metal is in the corners where the bolts are to the triangular strut...any strengthening here is a bonus..as for the foam, use whatever you want, its just to seal gaps to make sure the airflow is forced through the rad for maximum effect...and use stainless bolts, nuts and screws!

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Yep the triangular struts are missing, one completely the other a bodged repair

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Fook! Best be ordering a pair! Otherwise its putting stress on the whole frame, three rads together are heavy...

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Yep it's all out and being repaired. will be put in all nice and sturdy, I hate it when a PO/ mechanic has bodged stuff.

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post-721-0-48402000-1371060341.jpg

 

Original reinforcement plate (one on each corner) which was fiberglassed in the undertray.

 

post-721-0-11820600-1371060516.jpg

newly made (Stainless Steel) just before fiberglassing it into place.

 

post-721-0-56382300-1371060784.jpg

Original stays (without the welded on nuts) after powder coating.

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All back in place, don't they drive so much better with out all that pack crashing around......

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