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what does this pipe do? see pic. not idling right


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what does this pipe do?

post-280-1116273717.jpg

the elbow rubber end is split and perished.

im looking for split pipes because on tick over its very spluttery. as if it is only on 3 cylinders but no were near as bad as that.

gets a little better when warm.

it causes the engine to splutter when at 1500 rpm. not good when you have someone drooling over it as you go by and you look like your impersonating a kangaroo!

did have a hole in the manifold and has now been welded. seems to have helped but not cleared it completely.

just doesnt sound smooth

any ideas?

and does anyone have an idea of the part number for this elbow joint?

struggeling to identify in the manual

Edited by DAVES_GT3
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what does this pipe do?

post-280-1116273717.jpg

the elbow rubber end is split and perished.

im looking for split pipes because on tick over its very spluttery. as if it is only on 3 cylinders but no were near as bad as that.

gets a little better when warm.

it causes the engine to splutter when at 1500 rpm. not good when you have someone drooling over it as you go by and you look like your impersonating a kangaroo!

did have a hole in the manifold and has now been welded. seems to have helped but not cleared it completely.

just doesnt sound smooth

any ideas?

and does anyone have an idea of the part number for this elbow joint?

struggeling to identify in the manual

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

difficult to c on the piccie. if its the rubber pipe on the end of the black and white valve, then its the manifold vaccum t piece to the green flame trap oil separator thingiemagig line. usually split and causing a leak. high idle may be happening, maybe a stumble when pulling away as the idle valve would have gone to sleep if theres extra air for the engine to idle through somewhere else. check the one way valve aint clogged, round the right way (think it is) and seized open too. they are important it seems.

if its a little 90 deg elbow below that pipe, with a tiny pipe off of it, thats the MAP sensor boost line, which goes to the MAP sensor under the rear wing. this also splits giving bad readings, confusing the ecu when comparing it to the Barometer sensor (boost troubles), which causes havoc too. 90 deg pipe could be changed for a std vaccum advance elbow for a quid at a motor factors, or a bit of pipe.

fix them and clear the ecu by disconnecting the battery for 10 mins, warming it up gently, taking a gentle drive for 20 miles, then feed in the whoosh pedal a bit at a time, to get the ecu to re learn properly. u may notice the boost gets better for the ecu having a re learn without leaks.

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great info guys!

this site is better than taking it to lotus. and bloody cheaper!

it is the rubber elbow joint

i will try it out and see how i get on.

as it is the elbow joint and not the one way valve any ideas on the stumbling?

how do u check the valve by the way?

cheers dave

Edited by DAVES_GT3
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Sounds like you are having a few teething troubles. Why not bite the bullet and get a dealer or specialist to plug a Tech1 in (or ask if someone local can help you with freescan). A few quid now will make sure you don't get sick of it and spoil what should be your "bonding" period!

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

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Sounds like you are having a few teething troubles. Why not bite the bullet and get a dealer or specialist to plug a Tech1 in (or ask if someone local can help you with freescan).  A few quid now will make sure you don't get sick of it and spoil what should be your "bonding" period!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Wise words I think Mark, Daves booked in at Horizon Motorsport next week, fingers crossed he'll be fine then. :angry:

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