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Disaster changing water pump


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You're going to struggle to measure it there. May I suggest you use drill bits. Use the shank end and just keep going up until you can't fit the next drill bit in the hole. If you have imperial and metric drill bits, all the better as imperials translate to odd metric sizes.

Rough, but it'll give you a fairly accurate start point.

 

I'm pretty sure helicoil would have made a tool for inserting them in restricted places by now.

All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit.

Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others.

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Just to add some closure to this, reconditioned pump went on the car today.  Used a 27mm long bolt as opposed to 25mm and she has gone in the offending hole and tightened OK.   Not been able to torq

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I have heard that the water pump bolts ARE SHORTER than the depth of the tapped holes.  First thing to try is a longer bolt, and just don't go crazy on the torque.  I would try something 6-8mm longer, and see where you are at. 

 

Brian

Edited by bharper
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I have had a good look at the hole tonight, and there is no doubt we are dealing with a problem from previous as you will see.

 

Presumably there was a thread problem, and the first part of the hole has been enlarged, as you can see from the picture below:

post-5743-0-68645800-1375213076.jpg

Its clearly been drilled out, and if you look closely you can also see the remains of the thread in the bottom of the hole. This will accept a screw, and I have been able to put one of the screws in and there is enough bite to hold in place:

post-5743-0-96736200-1375213211.jpg

They got round this by somehow putting the screw into the water pump, and putting an enlarged thread at the end which tapers down to the correct size so it picks up on the little thread remaining. This thread adaption is currently preventing the bolt coming off the water pump.  You can see the difference in the thread sizes here (the standard bolt on the left in my grubby hands):

post-5743-0-13995000-1375213411.jpg

So I am thinking we can do the reverse of this - put a bolt section into the hole with a small stud as everyone suggested, and as Brian has mentioned making it a bit longer to suit.

 

Think that could be the way forward?

 

Oh - and I very much like the access panel idea so I can do the whole thing from inside the cabin!

Edited by Nelly9000
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Phew!

With some intact thread at the bottom of the hole I'd definitely go with the stud. You'll need to be accurate with the measurement to ensure it doesn't protrude too far and foul the aux pulley.

I'd also use the chemical metal / araldite / loctite to hold the stud firmly.

Also you may find you need a larger washer than normal as the M8 bolt has opened up the hole in the pump (unless you are replacing the pump body)

John

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Yes there is a certain amount of relief that its looking possible to do this with the engine in situ.

 

My though is exactly as you suggested John A length of stud with a fatter section around the middle to fill the hole, so I screw in (and maybe use adhesive too) to plug the hole and leave a small section of stud protruding for the water pump.

 

A recon water pump will be going on, but SJ sent me one without a temp sender hole so I need to wait until I get that.

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If there are half a dozen threads or so at the further depth, I would still use a longer bolt, and frankly antiseize (on all the bolts!), or you are just creating problems if you ever need to do this again.

Dealing with a stud turning and such is just not worth it. And unless you pull the stud out of the block, you probably can not install or remove the pump with it in place. Stick the stud, and double nut city, if you have enough thread external to the pump flange. If not, you are back having a problem.

Another wise move is to change the bolt that is interfered with by the aux pulley (which is probably the bolt in question) to a socket head cap screw (allen), you can generally wish that past the aux pulley without having to remove it. I am doing that on my S4 that I am also changing the pump on. I got a rebuild kit for mine for $30, and the tool to insert the seal with for $25, and rebuilt it myself (see hussie the S4 on the lotustalk.com esprit forum).

Good luck Neil,

Brian

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I agree with Brian. Try the longer bolt option as I think the stud will hinder trying to refit the 'pump. If we can acertain the orginal bolt size I'm sure we can come up with a loger replacement the right length. I've got loads at home.

 

Pete

Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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You're probably busy but you never told us the state of the old pump, was the impelled sheared from the shaft or damaged?

I'm just still curious about your initial problem.

I'd just go with a longer bolt greased up to prevent adhesion and fill the cavity with some kind of high temp adhesive / epoxy.

Good luck.

Something I learned about cars or planes, it all works until it doesn't anymore...sometime there is no way around it!

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Yes, it would appear we created all this agro for nothing, but we are where we are and at least I know its one things to cross off the list of possibilities and things to replace on the car long term.

 

Its been a good experience for me too as I probably would not have attempted this without Pete's help.

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Just to add some closure to this, reconditioned pump went on the car today.  Used a 27mm long bolt as opposed to 25mm and she has gone in the offending hole and tightened OK.

 

Not been able to torque it up along with the others, but looking at the previous solution I am pretty confident its tighter than it was before.

 

Won't be able to test for a week or so as I have also decided to replace the radiator, which is away for refurbishment - was going to do that in the near future and it made sense to bring that forward whilst the cooling system was in bits.

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Neil - Give me a shout when you want to get the cambelt back on.

 

Pete

Edited by peteyg

Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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