further problems

[bigsi]

right new relay went in for the cooling fans, with new block and conenctors, however, it didnt kick the fans in today the temp kept climbing, i had to resort to pulling the light pod relay and putting that into the new relay holder and they kicked into life and stayed on. with the new relay they do not work.

is it possible the thermal switch in the rad feed pipe is no good? can i check its resistance with a meter to see if it no longer working?

im not happy about this and the fact the fans are still not kicking in when needed is worrying me.

also today, the car would not start, then got it started by using a booster pack, got to a friends workshop and the car would not start up agaian.

we pulled one of the dizzy plugs and fitted a spark plug in the end and placed it on the head, no spark whatso ever.

undid coil cover box and fitted new king lead and a plug to taht, put on head and it sparked, the damn coil had gone, so fitted a new one and now she starts.

but the biggest and most annoying thing is, that even after taking the exhaust pipes out and new gaskets etc, the "phut phut" noise is still there so i have a strange feeling that its either the exhuast manifold gasket or the manifold is cracked which means geting that off and taking a look.

so this week im going back to my friends place, up on the ramps bottom covers off and see where its leaking.

however i need to get the carbs balanced, the fuel pressure checked and the dizzy checked, will my dizzy have arotor arm or with it be a lumenition sensor system?

only other thing i have noticed is that the fuel pump is always running, should it be doing this?

thanks as usual for the advice guys, help me from pulling what hair i have left out!!

si

Edited September 13, 2006 by bigsi

[WayneB]

Hi Simon, yes its possible the Otter switch is not working properly.

You can check this by pulling the two wires from the switch and connecting them together, which should cause the fans to run. Alternately you can check to see the current is reaching the relay from the Otter swich by probing the black and orange wire with a test light when the car is indicating at least a coolant temp in the 90s.

The fuel pump should always run with the ignition on.

Your distributor has a rotor arm, and is either a Luminition (optical triggered system) or a Lucas Constant Energy (magnetic) system.

You can check the manifold for cracks by raising the car and supporting it securely, starting it from cold and quickly running your hand around \and over the exhaust manifold. You will be able to feel where the exhaust is escaping from. Be quick though as you dont want to burn your hand!

[bigsi]

thanks wayne, i will check the otter tomorrow, and i will spreadsome talcom powder over the gasket area as when it blows it will blow the dust where its leaking.

[dazmans3]

Hi Simon

You seam to be getting all the know little (& large problems) all at once, which seams very unlucky. However I cann assure you that when sorted you will be very pleased.

Ref the Exhaust. the G car turbos , from the handfull I ve seen, tend to go from the first pipe section, toward the front of the engine. They crack on the join. ( will try to email you a photo) Does the sound tend to go once engine is fully warmed up. When mine went, in the early stages, it made a simular sound untill it warmed up. & the expansion of the manifold seamed to close it up. It was like this for ages, & allowed me to save up the pennies to have the job done. As Wayne has suggested, run hand quickly along manifold from cold start.

Otter switch located under the drivers side wheel arch. Very exposed. Check out the section on Lew about this. & prone to the electrode connectors corroding. Its a probabillity that if you touch these the connectors will disintergrate, if this is not already the problem. If the connectors are salvagable, then try as wayne has sugested.

I would coat this in greese & wrap insulating tape arround this to act as a protective cap.

My Fuel pump also runs continuosly, always has done, I assumed this was normal.

Hows the hand?

Daz

[bigsi]

ideally it would be great to meet up with another gcar owner who knows a bit and could suggest things on mycar to do and check things for me.

well i replaced all the gaskets from the aux manifold back and used new bosal exhust contact cement where the pipes feed and connect to the silencer.

i intend to check the mainfold tomorrow, if its cracked or leaking i will just buy the new upgraded version from one of the suppliers. it would be nice to have a stainless system on there that would solve everything.

as for the silencer and feed pipes i will be having a set custom made and i have got a tubi back box on the way for fitting, something a little more sporting.

the otter switch connectors are fine but i will short them over tomorrow and see if that activates the fans, i think the thermostat may have had its day also as the in car heat doesnt come on ( or i may not be waiting long enough).

as for the hand.. well it bloomin hurts!! went back today , removed splint and put new one on, it looks like a butchers shop in there!!

only 6 weeks with the new splint to go!

Edited September 13, 2006 by bigsi

[dazmans3]

Ref your heater. I ran mine for ages when I first got her & only ever got mild heat from the system. Thought this was normal at the time, like so many other quirks you put up with with these cars.

When I re did the whole system, I also flushed out the heater rad. &, Also changed the Thermostat only to find it to be very old, prob hadn't been changed in years( like 10+) When I put water back into the sysyem. I took my time ensuring there wasn't an air lock & presto. I have good heat in the cab. I would say not to the standard of modern cars, but it does get very warm.

Daz