free hit
counters
Repairing cast aluminium hub carriers - Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Hubs/Steering/Geo - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


IGNORED

Repairing cast aluminium hub carriers


Recommended Posts

break.jpg

Having a cleaning day here, I have 2 of these busted in the same place just wondering if it's worth repairing them ? I know a superb welder who does all my stainless and aluminium work but I'm just wondering whether they'll ever be as strong as they were ? I'd be tempted to Vee it and then build the weld up into the throat of the Vee with a stud in place to keep the alignment.

Taking into account how critical this part is for the rear suspension will a weld be good enough for this or is it best left as scrap (Pikey Joe down the metal dealers is offering me

facebook = [email protected]

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Same break on mine Jon - and I suggested to Pitstop Paul that it could probably be welded. He sucked his teeth (he does that a lot when we're talking about Lottie) and told me it was a daft idea...so we waited WEEKS to get the correct replacement - think it was around

Proud recipient of the LEF 'Car of the Month Award' February 2008

"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: "Wow, what a ride!!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jon,

Ill likey be replacing my rear spring and dampers in th next few weeks and knowing what a total B#st#rd the front stud where to remove im concerned that the rears wont be any better. How did you break the hub carriers and is there anything i shouldwatch out for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carl - if you're changing the shock absorber the stud does not need to come off. Disconnect the damper from the chassis and slide it off the stud that way...however if you do need to take it out give me a yell 1st and I'll tell you how best not to break it. Theres a HUGE short cut to the job as well.

The 1st one on the GT3 maidstone sportscars broke so I'm not sure how it went.

The one we broke was down to us being over confident - we used a fly press but turned down an aluminium thick wall tube to brace the 2 webs. The idea was to push down remaining 1/2 of the stud against the web that eventually broke....we'd done it but 10mins before on the other side hub carrier and it worked fine, however our efforts must have damaged the spacer tube and it deformed enough to fold over the side and *snap* went the web.

Other than that make no mistake it's VERY strong - it holds the car up - just not in the plain of which you need to take the stud out !

I totally recomend drilling these biatches out now - infact it's the only way if they stick in like mine did (ie I STILL cant get it out !)

facebook = [email protected]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

same thing here

replacing the bushes went well untill i started at the backside

the right side went super but the left hub carrier broke.

luckily a friend had one for allmost nothing.(125)

was thinking about welding the part but didnt dare

there's a lot of force coming on this part if driving on the circuit

gr Rens

researche is something i do when i don't know what the hell i'm doing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys. I noticed that the stud doesnt need to come out to replace the shocks but I find it hard to resist replacing other parts in the area like the bushes, new studs, nuts etc. But by the sounds of it I should not dick about with the stud for now, get the new shocks on and get driving while there are some dry days left this year. Besides we are all to close to the 'BIG MEET' to take any chances. :o:)

Thanks again Jon and Rens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mate here had his (Stehpens SE) welded a few years ago and been driving it since. Before the weld the parts were put in an oven but I don't know how long for or what temperature.

DanR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fell into this one with the SE project.

Had to replace the lower links which was a stud out job, the moment they were out the radius arms fell to the floor so the radius bushes had t be done as well...things can quickly spiral and they have on mine (pictures to come).

Whats the milage carl ?

I would look at the lower link bush and see what condition it is in, mine were almost falling out !

If you're going to do it go poly bush simply for the durability and ease of fitting. However putting polybushes on the other fittings will cause the original more stress if you leave it in...swings and roundabouts.

If you get it right it's an easy job, but if you're like me you end up taking the gearbox / engine / interior out as well :lol:

facebook = [email protected]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Chelsea Martyn

Hey Jonno

Made my teeth cringe seeing that!

Remember when Orchard dealerships broke my drivers side hub carrier trying to remove the bolt with a hammer?

Good luck fella with whatever course of action you persue

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to enhance your browsing experience, serve personalized ads or content, and analyze our traffic. By clicking " I Accept ", you consent to our use of cookies. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.