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1978 Lotus Esprit S2 - Page 15 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


1978 Lotus Esprit S2


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Before painting discovered chassis No. on back of chassis:

 

IMG_2617_zpsg9co5toy.jpg

 

IMG_2620_zpsror6uwct.jpg

 

 

Painted inside of central box section with this stuff:

IMG_2721_zps3wl7bpfk.jpg

Do not want this thing rusting from the inside, so lathered 4 coats on. 

For once my long skinny arms have been good for something and was able to manoeuvre paint brush inside and reach all areas. Very difficult job because you can't see what the hell you're doing, so after each coat I had to stick the camera down there and see how I was going and what parts I'd missed. Not the prettiest job due to the restrictive access, lots of gloops and runs but as long as no rust gets in here ever I'm happy.

 

IMG_2752_zpssc5gclbl.jpg

 

IMG_2765_zpst0u8kp5d.jpg

 

 

The last coat I applied was a bit too thick so ended up getting some great big air bubbles, but oh well, better too much than too little. 

IMG_2755_zps5gchw5bf.jpg

 

 

The front box section is impossible to get into with so have hit it through the various small holes in the front and back with Zinc paint:

IMG_2761_zpshih1mm3w.jpg

 

 

So overall not the prettiest job, I'm sure a better finish could be achieved with a paint gun, booth, hi filling/rubbing down all the pitted areas and someone who knows what they're doing but like I said as long as it does the job of protecting against rust I'm not fussed because the chassis is nearly all hidden from view anyway.

 

So now to start putting things back together!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Freemason
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  • 2 weeks later...

OOPS . . . trying to figure out quoting a post in my reply.  (see above)

Anyway, I was thinking about buying a running S2 that isn't in as good of condition as the seller thinks it is (of course).  New spray job makes it look nice & it runs pretty good (in fact, it continues to sputter even after the key is turned of.  Ha ha).  I was considering this "rolling restoration" idea, since it drives & I'd hate to have the car in pieces over a year or two.  Although, based on it's age, a full frame-off resto is probably what it needs, I'd want to take it out for a spin at least occasionally.  So, perhaps I'd buy it, get it tuned up, fix the electrical accessory items that don't work, and then just repair items as they make themselves known?  Meanwhile, driving the car occasionally & working on body trim items.

QUESTION:  What items, if any, would be completely inaccessible without removing the body?  Gas tanks?  The coolant & brake lines that run through the chassis tunnel?  Or can these be replaced with the body on the chassis?  Anything else?

Additionally. . . What, if any, normal wear items would necessitate pulling out the engine?  Cam belt & cam seals & crank seals can all be done without pulling the engine?  Gearbox rebuild?

In other words, if one did a "complete restoration" without pulling the body or engine, what items would be neglected?  Anything?

Thanks much!  All comments, good & bad, are appreciated!  

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Fuel tanks can be changed with body and engine in situ (have done mine).  Gearbox can be removed from the engine leaving that in situ (seen it done).  Access to some parts of the engine is tricky, such as the water pump, but possible to do with the engine still in.

As Barry says you wont paint the top of the chassis and the main tunnel;unless the body is off.

I also did the rolling resto, depending on what car you get there will usually be more than you bargained for!

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So, it seems like with some extra effort, most items (including the tanks!) can be removed, restored/fixed, & replaced.

Same is true of the stuff *in* the tunnel??  Can it be pulled out with the body on the chassis?  

What's in the tunnel?  Coolant tubes and (I'm guessing) brake line to rear, & clutch hydraulic line, & *long* linkage to the gearbox?  Anything else?

On a 1979-80 "un-restored driver" is it probably true that at least the coolant tubes need replacement?  Do they rust?

You guys already doing these resto's are the experts here, IMO.  I appreciate the info!

So, it seems like with some extra effort, most items (including the tanks!) can be removed, restored/fixed, & replaced.

Same is true of the stuff *in* the tunnel??  Can it be pulled out with the body on the chassis?  

What's in the tunnel?  Coolant tubes and (I'm guessing) brake line to rear, & clutch hydraulic line, & *long* linkage to the gearbox?  Anything else?

On a 1979-80 "un-restored driver" is it probably true that at least the coolant tubes need replacement?  Do they rust?

You guys already doing these resto's are the experts here, IMO.  I appreciate the info!

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It depends on the state of your car. Personally, I am glad I went the whole hog because despite the seller of my car assuring me that there was no rust and only a bit of original surface dirt from the UK, on pulling apart I found absolutely everything to be in a serious state of decay, starting with the rotting chassis. 

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Pretty much everything can be done with the body on. Like Barry says you can't get to the top of the chassis to paint it but other than that it's just a case of how flexible you are. Through-chassis coolant tubes can be removed from the front by removing the radiator, cowling etc.

My chassis was so knackered that the only real option was to replace it with a galvanised one.

You will need patience and be prepared for one job to lead to another. As long as you enjoy tinkering, buy it. They are fabulous cars and you'll get all the advice you'll need on this forum!

Pete

Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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Managed to complete major task today fitting grommets to various holes in chassis. Need a beer after that one...

Grey runs are from spraying cold gal into front box section.

Do the smaller holes at the top of first pic also need grommets?

 

IMG_2791_zpsknbpufab.jpg

 

IMG_2794_zpspvk2yamq.jpg

 

 

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From the front of the car looking back at the chassis:

Bottom left smaller is for brake which has a grommet. Two smaller lower towards the right is for return water - grommet. 

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Oil cooler bracket painted and fitted:

IMG_2909_zpseb6xytsn.jpg

 

 

Rear chassis tubes plugged:

IMG_2905_zpsgiualrus.jpg

 

IMG_2903_zpsn3jwtfnm.jpg

 

 

Bottom of fuel tanks padded:

IMG_2920_zpsiwnxqhie.jpg

 

 

New SJ 'imperial' door hinge bushes are a perfect fit!

IMG_0556_zpswrqjcoay.jpg

Edited by Freemason
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Gear linkage refurbished.

Before:

IMG_0177_zpskfxjtr6j.jpg

 

IMG_2327_zps87pn6ol2.jpg

 

IMG_2318_zps9dmcobcz.jpg

 

IMG_2312_zpseqjeog78.jpg

 

 

 

After:

IMG_0560_zpse8snsuaq.jpg

 

IMG_0568_zpstuxgawvu.jpg

 

IMG_0569_zps5oegs4cs.jpg

 

Had it sent off to Lotus Marques for the following work:

- Dismantle linkage and straighten bent intermediate link

- Bead-blast all linkages to remove corrosion/rust

- Separate adjustable rode ends from linkages

- Replace 10mm threaded stud and clean all internal threads in rod-ends

- Finish control rods to produce as smooth a surface as possible

- Apply black epoxy paint to linkage

 

I then reassembled with new titanium pivot pins, Stig Fasteners M7 stainless nyloc nuts, ArmorGalv coated swing link, and the IGUS bearings upgrade as recommended by Giorgio.

 

Edited by Freemason
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Congrats.

Speaking of pressing things - Could I hijack your thread and ask a quick question about pressing tools? I've never used one and I'm thinking of buying one for the project. Is 3 tonne enough? Or would I need the 12 tonne? Not worried about the cost - just don't really have anywhere to put a floor press. Thoughts?

Edited by Rolls
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I put the IGUS bearings in with a vise. Not ideal and I actually destroyed two of them doing it this way. 

I had to ask my mechanic to take apart the gear lever mechanism/surround because I don't have a press tool, wish I had one and a proper workshop to put it in!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Small progress on the door beams. The tie rod is not straight, because the two holes on the hinge brackets are not aligned. I take it this is normal or am I missing something?

 

 

 

IMG_0718.JPG

 

 

 

IMG_0722.JPG

Edited by Freemason
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Hi Antonio,

just read through your progress great work !! I have just started my S2 body is of and completely stripped the chassis, had it blasted now debating powder coat or paint what would you do now if you could do it again? what's your wiring loom like? mine is shot and need a major repair or new loom Ive heard mixed reports on both any ideas?

 

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Most people prefer chassis paint to powder coating. Powder coating apparently doesn't offer as good rust protection as something like POR-15, and you can't touch up if you get a chip. I would use Rust-Bullet or whatever your choice of chassis paint is, and do it all slowly, section by section. Then I'd use a spray can of cold gal or a similar zinc paint for the interior box sections. 

My wiring loom is a disaster. When the time comes I will probably get a new one.

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  • 1 month later...

Rebuilding doors is a nightmare. So much has to be modified, refurbished, replaced. 

Here we have two different door clips used on the door locks:

IMG_1183.JPG

 

 

This is the right door lock:

IMG_2229.JPG

 

 

Here is the left:

IMG_2231.JPG

 

 

IMG_2232.JPG

 

 

As you can see they have used one type of clip for one, and another for the other. Which is the correct type to use Lord only knows.

 

 

 

Then we have the inner door handles:

IMG_1136.JPG

 

Different again. Missing the outer plates, which I gather are not used anyway, and also missing the holes in the back, which I'll have to measure up and drill myself whilst trying not to destroy the whole assembly.

 

Edited by Freemason
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The nightmare continues...

Orange bush from SJ does not fit. Doesn't snap in and hold the rod in place. Metal clip from SJ is made from extremely stiff metal so is very difficult to clip on and off.  Not ideal when you need to take it on and off a lot to trial different ways of making it fit.

Spent a whole afternoon mucking around with this, then ended up going with the original set-up that uses the plastic bush and metal clip from the exterior door handles (in plastic bag on right). 

 

 

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IMG_1190.JPG

 

 

IMG_1246.JPG

IMG_1247.JPG

Edited by Freemason
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