free hit
counters
1978 Lotus Esprit S2 - Page 26 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


IGNORED

1978 Lotus Esprit S2


Recommended Posts

Antonio,

Just happened upon your thread and I'm thrilled as you are in the process of restoration every bit as comprehensive as mine on 7807/0100S! After a quick, partial browse I noticed a point or two which may not have been answered so offer the following:

1)- While I'm sure your first question regarding gear selector bolt sizes has long ago been answered, were you aware that there should be a flat washer between selector and chassis at each of the four corners?

2)- Regarding those access holes low on the footwell each side - this was addressed at least in good part by another forum member but if any doubt remains you should leave accessible until such time as the car has settled on the springs, etc. because it is only then that you want to cinch up the nuts on the wishbone pivot bolts. Lotus from the earliest years have always employed rubber bushes tightly trapped by their fasteners to act in torsion. Not at all like what is done when poly bushes are substituted.

Cheers,

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the tips!

 

1) Which flat washers are you referring to? Do you mean below the four bolts that go into the Gear Lever Assembly, part 1 in this illustration? Oh, and I've managed to lose these bolts and drip paint into the threads in the chassis where they bolt into, so still after the specs if anyone has them.

 

 

 

FB.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Antonio,

Yes, the location for flat washers to which I referred was indeed below component 1, the gearchange mechanism. One must presume the purpose for this to be that Lotus could have no certainty that the chassis closing/mount plate for the gearchange would be entirely flat after the production weld-up. Thus the washers serve to ensure that the mechanism is squarely perched across all 4 corners once bolted in. I was at first rather surprised to find these washers upon teardown but with no doubt I am the first to disassemble it all since the car was first built it can only have been intentional that the washers were so placed.

As to your quest for thread specs I hope to have access to my chassis, currently somewhat out of reach in the garage, fairly soon. After the Holidays I must attend to a business matter for a day or two then complete the removal of bitumen undercoat not blasted clear from the engine bay when the shell was sent out for stripping. I have replaced all the bobbins in the course of recent efforts so will be free to fit the chassis up under the shell at long last once that last clean-up is done.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Pedal box refurbished. Everything plated, POR-15 over the top of main section, new nuts, bolts, washers, new pedal rubbers, MOB skateboard grip tape on accelerator pedal. 

 

IMG_3528

 

IMG_3534

 

IMG_3530

 

Edited by Freemason
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would have applied the grip tape to the brake pedal, left the throttle bare metal. IMO, the go pedal works to good effect when the shoe is free to slide over it, not so much the case where the brakes are concerned. My 2 cents worth.

Cheers

Steve 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As with a lot of cars of that age, including my modern cars, the accelerator pedal on my S1 was bare metal.

See how it feels with grip tape in use. It's easily changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/01/2018 at 14:26, drdoom said:

I would have applied the grip tape to the brake pedal, left the throttle bare metal. IMO, the go pedal works to good effect when the shoe is free to slide over it, not so much the case where the brakes are concerned. My 2 cents worth.

Cheers

Steve 

Need to be able to swivel the ball of your foot if you are looking to drive fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed, Roland. I prefer to heel and toe with ball of foot planted securely on the brake, rocking the ankle to blip throttle for gearchanges. Others may prefer alternative approaches but I like the neat measures of throttle possible with my method.

Cheers 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah damn I should have checked before doing that, I just assumed it was original but now it looks like it's another of the PO's wonderful 'improvements' to this car.

Oh well, if it annoys me I suppose I can always peel it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Antonio, I just want to say thank very much for the details of your restoration. I am just starting my own resto on an S2. I have read yours twice already. You are going to save me hours of work. However I am not going to replace anything with Titanium! I just want to get it up and running. 5 years is too long for me to wait to drive it!! All the best. lez

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small jobs today. But even the simplest things take so much time. Took me an hour to learn how to use the nutsert tool.

Inserted a rivnut in the steering column seal plate. Unless you have 6 foot arms, this makes it much easier to install.

IMG_3970

 

Fitted:

IMG_3972

 

Bolted in through front bulkhead:

IMG_3978

 

 

 

The war on rivets continues. Fitted Jack nuts through the body underside on pre-existing holes, then anodized hose clamps for the handbrake cables. Titanium bolts and washers.

IMG_3987

 

 

 

Edited by Freemason
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

More samples from Scotlandshop. I have decided against tartan because if I want to keep the original fluting on the S2 accent pieces tartan pattern is not going to work. I've narrowed it down to the patterns below, would like to use one of these to break things up so the interior is not all black leather interior. I think the bottom right is my favourite. Tartan Shepherd (top right) is also nice but maybe a bit too modern. Kirkton Grey Tweed Check 580 (bottom left) probably looks the most '70s' out of all of them. 

 

 

IMG_4986

 

 

Edited by Freemason
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Rear valance scrubbed clean of about 30 years of road grime. New neoprene rubber fitted.

It will never be this clean again!

 

IMG_5107

 

 

Aeroflow aluminised heat shield affixed:

IMG_5194

 

IMG_5192

 

IMG_5187

 

PROTI forged titanium bolts ready for fitting.

IMG_5185

 

Edited by Freemason
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a problem with the front bonnet hinge bolts fouling on the bodywork. you can't really see the paint chip without getting in there and looking for it but it's still annoying for this to happen on a freshly painted body. Panel fit around this area isnt the best. Have now fitted short head PROTI bolts on the hinges so there's enough clearance now.

IMG_5222

 

IMG_5245

 

IMG_5224

 

IMG_5246

 

IMG_5244

 

Edited by Freemason
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Gold FFM

Fridge, where did you get your stainless replacements? I would like to do mine as they are looking a bit tired... Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, skiing said:

Fridge, where did you get your stainless replacements? I would like to do mine as they are looking a bit tired... Thanks.

Hawks Fasteners on Skipper's Lane Industrial Estate, Middlesbrough, UK.

But any stainless steel fastener place will stock them. They're not unique to Lotus!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...