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Cylinder Head Removal


Dave Hopwood

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Do you have a engine with *headbolts*  ..or one with the revised (probably by one of the previous engine-rebuilds ?)  *studs* and nuts on top,  instead of bolts ??

 

As mention, with traditional bolts you would only need to undo the bolts until those come loose in the block, you can let those bolts remained in the head after that, and pull of the head with the bolts hangin loose on them.  Imagine how much more space you would need if you have 'studs' and you would need to lift the head straight up until you passed the whole studs sitting still in the engine block ;)

 

..so if you have trouble even with the more easy (factory) version by headbolts, the enginebay side covers (the black ones) are fitted with ordinary metric screws on the bottom and some Phillips[TM] cross head screws on the cabin bulkhead. Undo them (or cut them off with a Dremel/air grinder if sized) and loosem all pipes and wirings that pass along, and you will have even more space to work on

Edited by Günter

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Hi Gunter

My engine is fitted with stock head bolts

Anyway,the the engine is now out of the car now as I wanted to key the intermediate shaft pulley as I don't trust torque tightening and it's happened to too many owners that the bolt has worked loose trashing the engine(now including mine)

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there is a straight factory advice -on how to fit the main bolt and what to use as a 'glue' 

 

..strange thing is, the noted Loctite in the workshop book is the white pipe sealer, typical for a plumber shop  :)

 

If you key this arrangement, think about what else could fail ..for example the upper four cam wheels are also not indexed, so to find a way to fix those there to the cams (within the right specification for timing/belt frequency) this would be a good thing to !

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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