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S1 Esprit Starting Problems when hot - Page 2 - Fuel System/Carbs - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Alec Grimsey

S1 Esprit Starting Problems when hot

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Alec, just a thought, have you checked the HT leads? The sheething deteriorates over time and as electrical resistance increases with temperate so you could be experiencing weak spark.

The leads are easy to check, just run the engine in pitch dark and look for blue flashing due to arcing on adjacent metal.

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I have the same trouble on my S3. In addition lately it stalls when hot or sitting in traffic after first running rough ( I have to keep the revs up to keep it going) I have noticed that when hot using the electricals makes it misfire worse or stall. This makes for stressful journeys, especially with the red clutch hose syndrome rearing its ugly head as well!

I did some voltage measurements on the connector that leads to the Lumenition/coil box and the volts from the front of the car fusebox seem to be slightly lower than battery voltage and much lower when operating the windows or lights. I can only deduce that my original wiring is causing a voltage drop from the front to the back of the car - it does look in poor shape and wasnt really up to the job when it came from the factory, the main feed wire from the battery to the fusebox is too small. Add 35 years and corrosion and it wont be any better!

 

I am going to try running the ignition straight from the battery whilst it is misbehaving and see if my problem goes away. If it does I am going to power the ignition through a relay straight to the battery, this will save me rewiring the car.

 

I will keep you posted on the results.

 

Joolz

 

 

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Had all sorts of problems with my car until I replaced the distributor pickup and associated lead back to the ignition amplifier (AB14). I also swapped the AB14 as I had a spare and problem has gone away. If it doesnt manifest itself when engine cold bear in mind the pickup tends to break down when engine running hot. Fairly cheap fix.

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Guest surferphil

I have the same trouble on my S3. In addition lately it stalls when hot or sitting in traffic after first running rough ( I have to keep the revs up to keep it going) I have noticed that when hot using the electricals makes it misfire worse or stall. This makes for stressful journeys, especially with the red clutch hose syndrome rearing its ugly head as well!

I did some voltage measurements on the connector that leads to the Lumenition/coil box and the volts from the front of the car fusebox seem to be slightly lower than battery voltage and much lower when operating the windows or lights. I can only deduce that my original wiring is causing a voltage drop from the front to the back of the car - it does look in poor shape and wasnt really up to the job when it came from the factory, the main feed wire from the battery to the fusebox is too small. Add 35 years and corrosion and it wont be any better!

 

I am going to try running the ignition straight from the battery whilst it is misbehaving and see if my problem goes away. If it does I am going to power the ignition through a relay straight to the battery, this will save me rewiring the car.

 

I will keep you posted on the results.

 

Joolz

 

I had this problem for years and never fixed it, the only thing on the car I didn't replace was the Luminition, when talking to Steve at SJ he said it sounds like the Luminition is getting hot and the electronics don't like it.

 

Personally I'd dump the Lumi if it isn't original anyway dump the whole idea of it.

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I have a similar problem but engine turns over fine all the time when cold runs and starts well but misfires when hot and if i switch it off it wont start until cold I'm not much help to you as need help myself can it be fuel starvation in yours ? as I think it is in mine? regards john

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Guest surferphil

The S1 engine bay gets very hot the cure is to keep the bay cool and see if the problem persists, then you know if its the engine or ancillary.

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I'd second the HT lead option. I had problems with rough running and subsequently no starting when hot. Looked at everything and then replaced what I thought were perfectly good leads and problem sorted.


Look what Q's brought us. Isn't it nice!

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Guest surferphil

Electrical wiring is normally happy when hot, its electronics that are more sensitive to heat, Electrical usually suffers when cold.

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The solution to my problem was just the rotor arm. It was only misbehaving/misfiring when hot for several months. I diagnosed it when stranded overnight at Magor services after it cut out completely at the Servern Bridge toll gate (the AA took me there. The spark was disappearing down the rivet hole. You can get rotor arms that dont have the rivet and remove that temptation for the spark.

The car has not missed a beat hot or cold since I changed the arm....

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