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Another resto...


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I've been um'ing and arh'ing about the way forward now. Despite my desire to get the engine bay resprayed before the engine goes in I'm now toying with getting the engine in and the car mot'd before stripping it all out again for the respray and doing the whole body with the respray. There are a few advantages in doing this I figure, since after 1500 miles I will change all the fluids anyway, retorque the head and remove the dizzy for an ecu. The last part will be easier with the engine out especially since the fly wheel will need a sensor on! And I can verify the engine is good and not get a masking mark around the engine bay. I can do the rewiring with the engine in situ which will help with a look layout.

Just need to get the offside hub on.

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  • 1 month later...

The warm weather has tempted me back into the garage. I now have my getrag box in as a trial fit. This will also stop the prop shaft from failing about when the car is taken for the respray. Just need to get some penny washer to bolt it in and get the gear stick in which requires removing the boot from the inside the surround of which is all rusted so the screws holding in the metal clamp will have to be drilled out to get enough access to get the larger s2 gear stick assembly into place. Still waiting on parts from an before the car can move though!

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Question on the gearbox mounting. Since I now have an s2 chassis and box I am unfamiliar with the mouting and my workshop manual is to an s1. So I have bolted the box in to the cross member bracket. There is a significant amount of movement vertically as the box rocks on it mount which I guess will be eliminated once the engine is bolted to it but...

I have, what appear to be, some convenient captive nuts on the chassis and some threaded holes in the box... Should a mounting bracket als be in here somewhere?



Also got the radiator out for refurbishing. Is there any significance to the fan colours?


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8 minutes ago, pbharcourt said:

The two threaded holes in the gearbox are for the vibration damper which is just a big lump of lead!


Was this an old photo or would you be so kind to provide dimensions and weight as I seem to be one vibration damper short of a gearbox!


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  • Gold FFM

If you have the 5 speed box then I dont think you need the damper. As far as I can tell it was used on the earlier 4 speed and was never a success. But someone on here will keep you right. Dunc, your comments please.

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Work is progressing today with the last thing to be removed from the engine bay being the brake servo. Getting this off is a real pain in every way. Removing the clevis pin from the brake pedal when this had corroded in was tough enough but getting to the x4 servo mounting bolts is just impossible without a rachet ring spanner. So one of these is now on order.

The headlamp vacuum units are also out now... So the only thing that really worked well when I brought the car has now been stripped out ready for my lift motors. No turning back. 

I think the headlamp pods will be removed before the engine bay respray so I can get the mounting for the lift motors sorted before being sprayed. Lots of fidlly little jobs and not much satisfaction to report.

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Mike, just been under mine to try to remove the fuel pipe from tank to cut off valve. As you have done yours already, can you access the pipe without removing the exhaust and prop shaft? Can't really see how I'm going to replace it with those in situ. Also, do you know where the 2 breather pipes from the filler necks exit the car (assuming they do and are not returned to the fuel system somehow?

Good to hear you are making progress - keep it up



Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Ant, I did mine with the chassis off so was a peice of cake. The fuel line routes through holes in the bulk heads welded across the inside of the chassis backbone. I'm sure you can get it off the cut off valve without removing the exhaust but I would attach the new fuel pipe to the old using a straight coupler and then pull it from the rear of the car to get the new pipe in the right holes. These keep it from contacting the prop shaft I guess. I fear I haven't got the right spec of pipe which won't last with ethanol no I may well be repeating this... 3 metres gets you from the cut of valve to the pump with not too much to spare. 8mm from the tank to the pump then 6mm all the way.

Remember there was a recall to fit threadlock to the prop shaft bolts where it connects to the diff so if you do remove the shaft then make sure you threadlock them. Fuel pipe and loose prop shaft would make an entertaining mess.

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 31/01/2016 at 13:34, oilmagnet477 said:

Cheers Clive, I'm getting there slowly!

Very slowly. Life gets in the way sometimes and I guess I'm mid point now with a lot of time and money spent with not much to show for it. Its kind of fighting me very step since I had to drill out the screws holding my gear stick gaiter on today! Every last nut and bolt has past its best and either has to get cut off or drilled out. Even on the inside!

Still now I've figured out that the s2 gearbox goes in with the gear stick on - a major difference to the s1 ( so reassembly is not always the reverse of disassembly) I now move on to removing the doors and fixing the sagging door hinges. First step is remove all the wires for the windows and mirrors...


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  • 2 weeks later...

After many trials and tribulations I have my drivers side door off. My door card had an electric mirror joystick so I was hoping to recommission my mirrors however I have discovered that these have been replaced at some point with aftermarket replacements. :cry:

My door beam is in pretty good shape but the evidence suggests my doors have not been off before.



The trim has started to come off too ready for a glass guy to remove the windscreen and side windows. Passengers door next... Wish me luck

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