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mikeeech

Another resto...

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Yes although I will probably lift the body again so I can undercoat the rear wheel arches properly as I had done on my original shell. I'm guessing that in the swap there will only be a few bolts holding it down when I get it back. Should be at the end of next week though....

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I will cancel the spy then Mike, I can just about wait till next week to see your colour choice :P  glad things are moving on swifty for you now and the bodyshell drama is now a distant memory, speaking of which have you got the chainsaw out yet ?


A

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oh yes. chain saw out and it's all down to the rear hatch now with lots of trips to the tip to get rid of large sections that fit in the back of my merc. But cross section though the front inner wings?

DSC_0207.JPG

and if you were wondering what's in the cills...

DSC_0208.JPG

There's a load more to go down the tip now with the roll bar out, the roof off and the floor pan in two halves. Once I get the rear glass out (hammer anyone?) then a simple cut through the middle should see it just fit in the back of my car and then it's all gone. No chance of it turning up on someone else's chassis.

 

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Good effort Mike , The fiberglass is pretty heavy in some sections and weights a fair bit, never mind it will be out of your way soon. :)


A

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And what will you use to paint under the wheel arches, I thought I would mask off the chassis and try to find a flexible product, similar to that you would find under a modern car, however not found the right stuff yet!

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Good effort. I am away back to work overseas tomorrow so at this rate I kind of expect this project to be almost complete when i get back in 5 weeks time. Just a pity I wont be able to follow it while its ongoing.

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11 hours ago, Farmer Bob said:

And what will you use to paint under the wheel arches, I thought I would mask off the chassis and try to find a flexible product, similar to that you would find under a modern car, however not found the right stuff yet!

Gravitex was the stuff I used on the last body which is a modern stone chip underseal type thing. With regards to getting it finished there is still lots to do, the biggest item will be getting the dash back in. Now, since the wiring loom had to come out, which was not in the original plan, I was thinking about doing the wiring from scratch since I have read that the windows work better with relays, the lift motors will need relays, and I can switch to blade fuses. There is now a decent gap in the driver's foot well for a large relay/fuse box and this will tidy up the wiring in the engine bay alot. 

So I was thinking something like...

http://www.classic-technologies.com/fuse-box.php

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A wise choice with the loom Mike, car builder solutions do the CB12 complete unit for £112 which you may want a look at, also they are pretty helpful guys also, they even do a more modular system but you can build that how you like. :)  Not just for the relays it is so worth getting rid of those glass fuses!


A

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Finally cut up the rest of the body today and all went down the local tip. Though I would post a pic of the ceross section through the rear...

image_2016328202224.jpg

Lots of impact absorbing foam...

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Went to see the car today and it looks amazing:P. Unfortunately the photos I took don't really do it justice so pics when it gets home on Wednesday, hopefully in the sun!

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Good news Mike,  You are making us wait for the colour finish, i wish i had sent in the spy now :lol:Looking forward to the grand unveiling when she returns home. :yes:

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A

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Sometimes it's the small shiney things that makes you happy....:P

DSC_0016.JPGDSC_0015.JPG

Can you guess the colour... yes I chickened out and stayed with the white. whilst being original its also seeing a resurgence on new cars these days and i like the look with the black bumpers and the number plate on the bonnet as a sticker. any other colour and the number plate would spoil the look.

DSC_0011.JPGDSC_0012.JPGDSC_0013.JPG

Now I need to get some sealer on it (diamond brite or similar) and some ow tack protection tape for the edges... 

Next job to paint the underside again and polish up all those bobbins that came out from underneath the bonnet then break out the rivet gun.

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TOP COLOUR CHOICE!!!!

Wow Mike, you must be like a dog with 2 d1cks - that looks a million dollars!

When you say 'some how tack protection tape for edges' I assume you don't mean the join around the middle? Mine is coming off in parts but the original stuff, where it still sticks is like dried elephant sh1t. Not sure what to use. MT said double sided tape, but that wasn't exactly a detailed description as there are many varieties (of which few will do the job I imagine?)

Anyway great stuff. My tank sealant from Frosts has arrived so I'm itching to get my workshop back and crack on. You and Farmer Bob are really setting the standard!!

Your last photo really gives that Daz look lol


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Tesa bodyguard available from an eBay shop near you. This is the stuff that you see applied to the new cars that you see on car transporters. It is a low tack (spell checker got it wrong on my previous post!) sacrificial tape removed at the dealership. It should keep the paintwork safe whilst I'm moving around it.

9 minutes ago, oilmagnet477 said:

TOP COLOUR CHOICE!!!!

Wow Mike, you must be like a dog with 2 d1cks - that looks a million dollars

Funny enough the wife wasn't impressed so I must have two dicks. Curiously I saw a picture, a real one, of a man with two dicks once and he wasn't in an elite

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Arghh ! Gouged my paint tightening the bolts that hold the pedal box in as the ratchet slipped off the bolt. Probably not the last ding but will touch this up after the engine is in which is taking place tomorrow. Let's just prey I don't drop it on the body!

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Engine's in after a bit if wiggling around to get the prop shaft to line up. Getting the gearbox in with the gear stick on proved surprisingly easy to! The carbs need a good clean up but since the engine ran with the carbs set up as they were I will remove them after I get the engine running

Hearing the council when if finally pushed home was very satisfying and no chips to the paint. Result!

image_201641014278.jpg

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Pedal box is now repainted and in although the clutch cable wheel will have to come of since it doesn't rotate. I spent much of the day removing rust from various items and painting them, for instance the ring around the gear stick gaitor which has been soaking in a bucket of vinegar for 4 days to get all the crud off!

There is no rhyme or reason to my reassembly since I'm just picking up what is lying around the garage and putting it back on to get it out of the way at some point though I'm going to have to tackle the theory issue of the wiring!

I spent a sunny day in the garden sanding my front bumper down for a new coat of satin black. What I  I will also get a new latch made up of would be a quick rough up and paint has turned into a bigger job since it's been sprayed in the past and the paint peels off. I finally ran out of 400 grit so will continue with this on Saturday to get it back on the car.

Got my trim back from the polishers yesterday too and got the roof trim on ready for the rear quarter windows to be refitted tomorrow although I'm waiting for the trim clips from sj which, hopefully, will turn up before the window guy!

Does anyone know if these can be put on after the windows are in?

I'm also stripping the trim off my rear hatch glass which I will do a how to on since it's a bit of a pain. l will also have to get a new latch plate made up out of stainless since the old one is well past its best.

I have a new front windscreen wheel box also since I had to cut my old on out! Now whilst I have the original wiper arm the new wheel box has a smaller shaft to accommodate the 400mm wiper arms from Holden since I cannot find long wiper arms for the standard box.

Now the rear wiper wheel box is also a problem since I had to cut this off as well! 

Got my brake servo off to sj yesterday since I don't want to be taking this out again, ever and there were signs that fluid had run down the bulb. Although this was from the master cylinder the servo has seen better days.

And now the engine is in I can polish up the bobbins that locate the bonnet into the body and reassemble my bonnet with my new stainless frame and get this back on.

Lots to do suddenly!

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I know of your (slight) OCD, from your own description but are you bothered about the rear wipe? Clive uses rain guard on his rear screen and swears by it and  says not having the rear wiper in the way is a major improvement. Just an idea?

All looking good though, keep it up


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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I've got a hole to fill! Rain guard sounds like a god idea if I were to take it out in wet weather but heavens forbid that the forecasting gods get it wrong these days?

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Well the window guy didn't turn up yesterday. Now rescheduled for Tuesday.

All day spent today on the front bumper with reaction issues with the old paint... sand it down again, respray it then another bit pops up! Sand, paint and then another bit! Well worth the effort since it'sback on the car now looking a million dollars.

Had a dig around In the shed today to find the vinyl that goes around the demist vents and up the A pillars from my salvaged interior from lotus bits so this will be stuck on tomorrow, then the wiper and heater in.

I have also ordered a load of stuff from eBay including more braided fuel line to do the last stretch of fuel line between the cut off valve and the carbs.

Oils in the engine so just need to get the radiator in and I can rig up a rudimentary ignition and starter circuit.

Vroom, vroom

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I wouldn't worry too much. I have a bit of time on my hands at the moment and I still have the door hinges to sort, rear hatch to strip and referb, rewire with my mx5 motors for the heads lights, exhaust to polish (yep, seriously!). The wiring will stop me getting my interior in so it's a way off yet!

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Interested to know how you get on with the mx5 motors as I have just been looking on eBay (they seem very cheap). Is the vacuum system required to run the heater controls or something under the dash, I remember there being a smaller pipe teed of one of the vacuum tanks, or can the whole system be dumped in favour of electric motors? Where will you get your power to the motors from?

Robert

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Whilst watching Eurovision I have been planning my new wiring configuration that will include a thick enough cable to the headlamps for 100w bulbs and plenty of relays. I have been working on a new dash board with a "hatch" switch and a "light pod up" switch. This new fuse and relay box will fit in the driver's door well where the vacuum cylinder was. ICE will go in the other side.

Vacuum for the heater could be provided in a number of ways... sucking on the pipe (not the preferred option), fitting a small vacuum pump, or tapping into the inlet manifold.

But... I have also been looking at options vis-a-vie a more modern heater with a higher capacity blower. I have more options if I go the whole hog and rewire with modern relays and don't put all the current through the switches.

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