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mikeeech

Another resto...

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Looking at that picture i guess your right but my temperature sender is on the inlet manifold underneath the carbs. I guess this is a different water pump and the sender has been left off when the engine was rebuilt!

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Hi Mike,

This is my Elite - as you can see there is defo some sort of machine screw in there but I have no idea what size. It certainly doesn't look like it does anything other than block the hole? Begs the question, why have a hole.

IMG_5094.thumb.JPG.4dd89e88f5cc93e9cbb7a1d7f6424602.JPG

Just to confuse the issue (although this wasn't my intention!), I checked the Éclat. Sorry for the slightly out of focus image but this defo has something that isn't just a bolt?

Doesn't appear to be anything attached to it but the round end that you can just make out wiggles very slightly so I wonder if it is some sort of pressure relief valve?

Of course, this could have a missing connector which is supposed to be a temp sensor but it doesn't look like it and I can certainly see no reference to anything in the parts list.

Hope that helps? :blush:

 

IMG_5097.thumb.JPG.185c344bd4c82588124833b33f3bb17f.JPG

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http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/water-pump-replacement-anything-else-336537/

Check this out - about 4/5ths of the way down the page is reference to a temp sender (pictured) that looks suspiciously like the one in my Éclat. PN A050M6136W

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Yeah your bottom picture looks like the temperature sender for an excel (for vdo gauges) on sj sportscars website. A spare brake bleed nipple fits but an m10 bolt doesn't... Thread appears different. I guess the bleed nipple is not m10 after all!

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Got my dash board in! Centre console trim also in with gear stick gator and hand brake cover which has never been fitted to a car before. This was an interior i got from lotus bits from a part restored car and someone had spent some money on it.

It's got surprisingly complete suddenly. Got a box full of bits to take to the metal platers this week too. Odds and ends really but this will get a load of odd jobs finished off too (501 badge from passenger's side, door sticker plates, rear hatch brightwork and fuel filler caps)

Whilst i was rummaging around in the garage i found my rear light covers that should have been put on before the bumper so this will have to come off to fit these before i connect up the electrics. 

Now where's that new battery!

 

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Well done Sir, you are so nearly there now - a real testament to staying power and determination.

Be interested to know which metal finishers you use.

Cheers

Ant

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23 hours ago, oilmagnet477 said:

Well done Sir, you are so nearly there now - a real testament to staying power and determination.

Be interested to know which metal finishers you use.

Cheers

Ant

Well about that... I took them to a platers in Crawley (near where I work) yesterday and they were not hopeful of a good finish on the hinges to the rear hatch since they are mazak (pot metal or monkey metal). Since then a bit of research has highlighted that the Zinc in the pot metal separates from the aluminium over time and this creates a void which in turn leads to pits etc. So my expectation on finish were, how shall we say, managed a little! These could be easily made in stainless if the worst happens. The wing mirror mounts are a different story since the platers refused to take them since their view on the finish was that they are beyond hope... so what to do.

DMLS of the wing mirror mounts in 316 stainless would be the easiest fix but I would have to get an .STL file of the part. The originals can be 3d scanned to create the .STL... but I guess the costs will mount up. I have found a company in essex that can fill the voids created in the mazak before plating by filling them with solder but again this is labour intensive and the finish will not last so long as the originals or new parts. Alternately, perhaps getting some recast might be cheaper. 

This is going to slow things down.:(

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3d scanner - £50!:P 

Solidworks - free:)

Stainless steel wing mirror mounts - priceless... Watch this space

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10 minutes ago, mikeeech said:

3d scanner - £50!:P 

Solidworks - free:)

Stainless steel wing mirror mounts - priceless... Watch this space

What scanner did you manage to get for only 50 quid?! Very impressed :)

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A Ciclop open source object scanner which should do the job I hope. An unwanted gift on ebay. Lotus bits have the wing mirrors at £120 used (but don't have any). I got a london taxi wing mirror (that has the wrong base) for £30 and a second hand lotus one for £50 on ebay some years ago. I just need to get them printed for ~£110 and i'm winning.

Nothing ventured nothing gained. 

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59 minutes ago, mikeeech said:

A Ciclop open source object scanner which should do the job I hope. An unwanted gift on ebay. Lotus bits have the wing mirrors at £120 used (but don't have any). I got a london taxi wing mirror (that has the wrong base) for £30 and a second hand lotus one for £50 on ebay some years ago. I just need to get them printed for ~£110 and i'm winning.

Nothing ventured nothing gained. 

Top man! I think 3D printing could be the way forward for quite a few classic cars where replacement parts are no longer available. As long as you have one decent example which can be scanned, it should be possible to make something up.

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So after examining my London taxi wing mirror (which i brought since they look remarkably similar to the elite with a different base) i can report that there are significant differences in the base mounting which means that it is not a suitable mirror for me.

I will now have to print another mirror! I have brought two ford wing mirror motors so by the time I've finished i will have the .stl files to build new mirrors from scrap.

Bumpers have come off and is now back on with the rear light cowlings on and plenty of mastic to seal them to the bumper and body.

Plenty of work to do on the wiring!

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So haven't got the engine started yet.

Problem 1. The fuel filler neck hose brought from eBay ended up being the wrong size (despite measuring the old one) and no one local stocks these so I now have some more coming from demon tweaks. At least in the next  few weeks the fuel tank will be  a done with petrol in. The new fuel caps look fab. £40 each from sj sportscars. £12.50 from India!

Problem 2. I still haven't plugged the hole near the water pump. The thread is an extra fine metric thread and yes, no one does these locally! Got some coming this week.

Problem 3. I have a short between my battery live and the earth so have not got the battery in for obvious reasons. I have spent most of the day wiring up the ancillaries to try to eliminate this since they needed doing anyway but still no joy! The resistance is about 1ohm so could be a switch on, but I have tried most of them.

Usually I like problem solving but the wiring is a mess with alot of bullet conectors, scotch locks and inline fuses all over the place.

I might put this job off for a bit and focus on the brakes a clutch again.

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Bling bling! They look nice.

 

Wonder if they could do inner door pulls as well.

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Dave, I found a company who quoted me about £30 (can't remember if that was each or for a pair!) for having those plastic inlays.

Let me know if interested and I can let you have the details - the price may come down if we club together and get a few done.

Cheers

Ant

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So windscreen is fixed in. The replacement trim clips from sj sportscaras don't work very well and the trim is not seating... Any tips on how to get this looking good short of glueing it hard on.

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I gave up on the plastic clips from sj as well, they are nothing like the originals that were rivited on.

I glued my trim in but this will now be a problem as I need to remove it to re-seal the windscreen.:cry:

 

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The trim is a major ball ache, clips are either missing or don't hold. So the only option is to bond it in. This in turn causes problems cos if your screen is damaged you'll need to get it back off and it's almost impossible to remove it without more damage to the trim. I ruined my top piece getting it back off. There's no easy solution, bonding will need sone sort of methhod to hold it down as it tends to spring in places, holding it down with weight or tension will scratch or dent it, ask me how I know?! From experience I would tape the pieces to protect them from scratching, use just enough weight to hold it down, I used a 5 litre plastic oil canister that I could fill to get the required weight, but this only works on the bottom trim. The top trim I got upto all sorts of tricks to get it flat. You'll need to get all the side and corner pieces roughly into place as well, if you don't, they tend to lift as you screw or rivet them to the a pillar. It's a real ball ache unless your pieces are perfectly straight and your clips work. 

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So things are moving slowly but still moving. Fuel tank has 10 litre of petrol in with fuel caps and filler necks fitted. All fuel pipes and filters have been fitted now.

I have finally fitted the last remaining brake pipe between the manifold on the chassis and the brake master cylinder and have bled the brakes this morning. Most of my expensive silicon fluid ended up on the floor since I had a few loose connections and I will need to buy more and rebleed since the pedal is a bit soft but at least I can stop when I run it up the drive! The rear brakes is probably where most air still resides since the flow from the bleed nipple was very low!

The cooling system is leak free since I got a bolt to fit my hole in the water pump so cooling system is done.

Just need to short out my electrical short...

Oh and fill the gearbox will oil

 

Edited by mikeeech
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Sounds like you have your hands full Mike, Keep up the good work and keep us all updated ! More pics nèeded ! :)

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