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Another 100m of 16amp cable was delivered today so I will build the charging circuit and the ignition circuit for an engine start this week. This will leave...

The 10v circuit

The windows

The wing mirrors

The rear wiper

Interior lights

Brake lights

And reversing lights...

Seat runners were painted today! 

Obviously, lights, fans, light pods, windscreen wipers, radio, aerial etc all work with the exception of the rear demist. With mist on the rear window I get no working strips. I do have a spare but will mop this stuff up later.

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Both door frames and window motors are now in. Doors are hanging well and the locks and latches are now all set up. That's a pain staking job. I also dismantled the wing mirrors in preparation fo

Uplighters and downlighters... Only downlighters... Cool

Can't get my wing mirrors to play ball! The drivers side works on only 3 solonoids so I get some movement and the passenger's side stopped working altogether as I was testing it! This brings me back t

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A frustrating day today. What should have been a quick job of fitting and connecting the brake light switch resulted I the disco dry that it was fractionally to short to extinguish the lights which then meant I had to add length to the plunger with some epoxy paste I had left over from patching up the window frames. 

The volt meter was a bit frustrating too, since on turning on the ignition it didn't jump into life. I spent a while checking the wiring and the configuration of the multiconnector I have used as an interface to the instrument binicle, then I dug out my spare instruments to swap out a second guage and when they both failed to spring into life I got the internet to diagnose what fault I might find with them both...

Only to realise that they both worked and needed time for the heated coil to warm up! Duh

It's been twenty years since I've driven an analogue car.  It's amazing how time flies and what you forget!

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Today I discovered my reversing light switch on the gearbox is always on! Does anyone know where you can get one for a getrag box?

The ignition circuit is wired up with the exception of the ballast resistor... Now I've seen that recently but can't think where!

In rewiring this car a lot of things have needed attention to work so it's not surprising my old loom wasn't working for me.

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4 hours ago, mikeeech said:

Today I discovered my reversing light switch on the gearbox is always on! Does anyone know where you can get one for a Getrag box?

Can it be dismantled - maybe a return spring has broken/become stuck?  My Getrag box is in the shed at the moment - I'll have a look at it tomorrow to see if looks like they come apart.

Edit:  Check out  Fleabay item number 222585814243

Pete

Edited by EXCEL V8
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38 minutes ago, EXCEL V8 said:

Can it be dismantled - maybe a return spring has broken/become stuck?  My Getrag box is in the shed at the moment - I'll have a look at it tomorrow to see if looks like they come apart.

Edit:  Check out  Fleabay item number 222585814243

Pete

 

That's the sucker. I don't think it comes apart, certainly it's not obvious that it does. I think the plastic where the connectors come out was melted in during manufacture. Funnily enough sj sportcars have what appears to be the same switch but for £16. I did phone Steve at which point he told me it was for an esprit with a Citroen box and he thought the getrag item was not available, so I have sent him dimensions, thread size etc, so he can check it out for me.

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Probably. I'm building up quite a list of purchases to be made since none of my interior light switches work either. These are on the side of the dash board and the glove box. £10 each for an original lotus part. I have a new ballast resistor on order at least.

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The charging circuit and ignition circuits are now done with the exception of the ballast resistor. The wiring under the bonnet looks much heater now but I now need a good military bulkhead connector.

I ordered a lot of random stuff over the weekend to finish some bits off and so before all that arrives I have removed the passenger side door so I can adjust it for fit. I was never really happy with it and after trying to fiddle with it today I ended up back at square one!

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It now resides under the drivers seat with all of the relays. the under bonnet wiring is much tidier as a result.  

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Many thanks that sound like a very neat solution.

I’m planning out how I’m going to rewire my car and currently have an after market fuse board wedged next to the servo 

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I have wired it such that the ignition key trips a relay for ignition position 1 and a second fork ignition position 2. The power feed to these relays is fused at 10amps and each one supplies a power rail. One for utilities that should work when the ignition is switched to 1 (radio, side lights etc) and one for utilities that should work when the ignition is switched to 2 (everything else?).

These power rails only provide the power to the switches, with the exception of the fuel lock valves and fuel pump, feed to the ballast resistor etc. The switches then provide the signal to further relays which have fused power feeds from a permanent 12 volt rail on the board.

All the circuits are earthed at the steering column and a 100amp cable takes it back to the battery so no earth's are out In the environment. Also the instrument binicle is wired separately to two 15 way multi connectors so it's easy to remove this and an assembly. The switches in the centre consol are wired in the same way. For the same reasons I want a bulkhead connector in the engine bay so the engine can be removed with the wiring in place.

This approach is not the most efficient on cabling but I do have all the fuses and relays in on place and they are not scattered through the car.

I was really surprised how many random fuse holders there were in my old loom and how the relays seemed to have been an after thought.

The photo below is my first attempt and will see me through the first mot but I will be refining it to say the least.

IMG_20200202_114104.jpg.8a3123f1adbc747d2e221ea9edaff932.jpg

The wire bundle at the bottom of the image comes from the back of the car. There is a similar bundle coming from the front through the inner wing. They come together just out of shot to the right of the picture. The red wire on the right shows the cable run out from under the seat. Earth's are top right. Live power is bottom left, the fuse holder is on the left so it can be accessed with the seat fully forward.

There is space for 18 relays... This might not be quite enough!

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Any worries from water ingress into the cabin? Could you risk getting water damage? Sounds like a neat solution to the original wiring. 🙂

It's getting there......

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4 minutes ago, TAR said:

Any worries from water ingress into the cabin? Could you risk getting water damage? Sounds like a neat solution to the original wiring. 🙂

I have been glassing over a few holes in the floor, my door seals are tight, the windows have all been resealed. I will just have to work on it, or alternatively drill an exit hole underneath it!

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That's great work Mike!  I haven't got a dash board in place at the moment (or anything else for that matter) but I was hoping to do the same thing as a drop-down board above the passenger foot-well.  In your experience do you think there would be enough room?

Pete

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6 hours ago, EXCEL V8 said:

That's great work Mike!  I haven't got a dash board in place at the moment (or anything else for that matter) but I was hoping to do the same thing as a drop-down board above the passenger foot-well.  In your experience do you think there would be enough room?

Pete

I havent had my dash board fitted for years so i cant guess. I will slot it in tomorrow since I've been tidying up my wiring today and I need to ensure that my instrument wiring is good with the dash in place and if an alternator plug turns up tomorrow I can go for an engine start. It will need to come out again since I need to do curtosey lights and change my wiper motor. 

The issue I think will be making it secure once it's wired up and getting enough access to wire it up.

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Dash board in, the last of the under bonnet wiring is done, when I turn on the ignition I get a red light (seat belt wiring is not done yet) and gauges work... Tomorrow I need to tension the cam belt, fix a leak from the power steering, prime the oil system, then I'll see if my ignition circuit works!

As for space for a fuse box under the glove box, the is lots of room

IMG_20200423_141659.jpg.6615ba9dd66fd38c68615f4a9ba512dd.jpg

IMG_20200423_141704.jpg.87a094896847cde11ad4b8bf4e358908.jpg

The only thing behind there is the windscreen wiper motor.

IMG_20200423_141713.jpg.f97d3f6aad3a2dc3337ffa5c451ad71e.jpg

This is the view from the foot well looking up. Heater on the right. For hinge plate on the left.

There is not alot of fixing points unless glass fibre is added to the dash board. Still s modern mx5 heater would fit!

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Thanks for those pictures Mike.  I think I'll start planning some brackets/fixing points for that area for a board like yours.  I'm always really nervous for a first engine start!!  Good luck!

Pete

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I had it running two years ago! It was at this point that I decided to do the rewiring which I have only just finishing! Then I will have to learn car retrimming!

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6 hours ago, mikeeech said:

Still s modern mx5 heater would fit!

Has this been measured and checked? I am thinking of options for heater/air-con as my heater is rusty and fans are rubbish.

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Mike, I think the bulkhead connector is a very elegant solution, are you planning to use a straight plug in the bay or a cranked one?

I’m going to reuse the aftermarket board the PO installed, but will need to add some more relay bases, so far I’m going to need at least 8 more... 4Xwindow relays 2X heated seat relays, 2X headlight motors.

I’m not sure if I can steal your idea and relocate the board to the under seat as I need to test fit the XJS seats 1st

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7 hours ago, Straker said:

Mike, I think the bulkhead connector is a very elegant solution, are you planning to use a straight plug in the bay or a cranked one?

I’m going to reuse the aftermarket board the PO installed, but will need to add some more relay bases, so far I’m going to need at least 8 more... 4Xwindow relays 2X heated seat relays, 2X headlight motors.

I’m not sure if I can steal your idea and relocate the board to the under seat as I need to test fit the XJS seats 1st

Unfortunately fitting it under the seat was not my idea but came from a YouTube channel called project Binky. If your ever thinking of fitting the mechanicals of a 4x4 turbo charged Celica into a classic mini then it's one to watch! As for the bulkhead connector the ones so ha e found are quite expensive so I'm hiding my time for the moment.

 

17 hours ago, Clive59 said:

Has this been measured and checked? I am thinking of options for heater/air-con as my heater is rusty and fans are rubbish.

No but I might just buy one to check. I can always sell it again. Watch this space.

I went for an engine start today... I took the cam belt off and primed the oil system, refitted the cam belt, turned the engine over by hand to ensure that everything was ok. Tried to start but was not getting any fuel to the carbs. After checking through my wiring and the functioning of the fuel lock valves I was left with no other conclusion that the 15litres of fuel I put in two years ago had all evaporated. Sure enough, another 25 litres and it got close to firing however when it seemed as though it was close to fork g the starter would stall. Almost as if the timing was off. 

A quick look at the cam wheel timing marks with the engine at tdc seems to show I'm one notch out on the inlet timing now. Not enough to cause an interferance problem but messes with the timing. At least that's my theory.

I couldn't be bother to get the bonnet off to look at it in more detail so will put it all on ice for a week or so now!

My seats runner bolts turned up today as well. If everything had gone more smoothly I might have even have got to drive it!

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