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Both door frames and window motors are now in. Doors are hanging well and the locks and latches are now all set up. That's a pain staking job. I also dismantled the wing mirrors in preparation fo

Uplighters and downlighters... Only downlighters... Cool

Can't get my wing mirrors to play ball! The drivers side works on only 3 solonoids so I get some movement and the passenger's side stopped working altogether as I was testing it! This brings me back t

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After having trouble getting the car started after adjusting the tension on the timing belt, I had to find the correct firing order as the timing gear that drives the oil pump and distributor may have moved too. Once I had done this and set the static timing it started first go! So I drove it out of the garage! My first drive.

The clutch works. Great! My rev counter also works as does the temperature gauge so at least I have a full contingent of working wiring.

The brakes are not so hot. My refurbed servo unit has a vacuum problem as the non return valve is the wrong size for the bung in the servo and the insulating tape I put around it temporarily to make it a snug fit in the bung clearly is a bodge too far!

The oil pressure was very high initially and I had oil smoke coming from the crankcase breather but that soon settled down. I let it get to temperature however it got to 90degrees and the otter switch hadn't fired. Shorting out the connectors switched the fans on so that part works, but I was reluctant to allow it to get too much warmer just in case. It is a new otter switch.

I had a slight leak from the water pipes around it that I had to nip up and the sump plug also needed a tweak to stop a slight leak but as I went to adjust the timing slightly the distributor popped out and everything stopped! So that's now back in an everything is fine...

Question... Does the otter switch have some kind of clamp on it that will stop it popping out under pressure? 

 

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Good to see you have her running. Unfortunately I have had to resort to  holding my otter switch is in with cable ties and that temporary fix has been in for many months now.

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Ive gone with the cable tie route for now and will add the clip to my next sj order. I've run the car up to temperature this morning and the fans cut it at just over 90deg. The oil pressure was very high again to start with, probably around 65-70 on the gauge but this came down as things warmed up. In using 20/50 Castrol gtx. Is this normal?

I also have an oil leak, which yesterday I thought was coming from the sump plug but in fact it's higher up.IMG_20200609_104243.jpg.c2607c8568dab9108c9ac6f3f685487e.jpg

It seems to be coming from just above the area in the photo above the clutch cable. Any ideas?

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Which presumably means, if the clue is in the name, to fix this leak will require a new gasket which would be to disassemble the bottom end with the engine out?

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There's no gasket but yes, if that's where it's coming from it's engine out.  Hope it's coming from somewhere else!

Pete

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Curiously there is a bolt underneath there which I could get a 13mm spanner on and tighten by hand although this had no noticeable effect on the leak. It has gasket sealant between this and the block. Is this listed in the manual as the main bearing housing? If so I could get a torque wrench on the nuts to check the torque which should be 14_16ft/lbs?

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Hi just a thought cant see very well from the picture could your leak be from the speedo drive

A Burgess

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Thanks for the thought but in the picture you can see the clutch cable traveling through the bell housing towards the gearbox. It's not coming from above the main bearing housing. It doesn't leak with the engine not running and after tightening the bolt that holds the bearing housing as tightly as I can, it still leaks. There is silicon sealant along the edge. I would hope that the engine builders used oil resistant stuff but in the longer term it will have to come apart I guess.

My thoughts are that it wasn't leaking a couple of year ago and the length of time it takes to reveal itself once the engine is running suggests that it is new leak so maybe the sealant isn't oil resistant. Time will tell. 

Two positives though. Taking the engine and gearbox out makes getting the Speedo drive on easy and I found my dash board illumination spot light!

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of an update... Lots of odd jobs done. The vacuum pipe to the break servo has finally been sorted, I now have a shiny filter for the crank case breather, I finally sourced an under bonnet light and that's on and wired up, I ran my last wire to the pinhole dash illumination so the interior is going in after ordering some new bulbs for the pinhole! The radio is now In the glove box and it's a surprisingly good fitIMG_20200620_140910.jpg.d47f48e4c5ba52bb20b1fd7f2f6428dc.jpg

I've also been investigating my lack of brake pressure. The fluid has been coming down I the reservoir and there are a few drip on the garage floor on the deadhead side. Getting underneath I found the bleed nipple was leaking so tightened this up but there is still another leak which will require the brake drum to come off. If I can rely on the brakes than it can go for a pre-mot check, tune, wheel alignment before I pull the engine out.

I have made up another switch panel which means I can store my OEM clock in preference to my Jaeger round clock and I now have a selection of parts for my heater controls but more on that in another thread.

I've also been looking at new heater but more on that later!

 

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Keep going Mike. Must be frustrating to have some of the issues you're now finding, but it is all progress. Your getting there. 👍👍👍

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I think this is par for the course. Having had everything apart, something will be off. The engine is frustrating. I got it professionally done in order to avoid just this situation!

Lockdown has help massively with the amount of time I can spend on it and it has kept me busy during a time which would have been really hard if I had nothing to do!

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My memory is just about good enough to recall that when my Elite was a daily runner (late 80's), virtually every job needed doing twice before it was fixed.

I changed all brake pipes on one occasion because the MOT man said so ( He also muttered something like " I'm ******* glad I won't be doing this job" as he surveyed the pipe route around the diff). Put fluid in, then watched as it leaked out from half the joints. My first experience that there was a mix of metric and imperial fittings. 

Tony

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I remember this when I did the chassis. I replaced all of the brake lines when the body was off but i suspect the braided hose that goes to the rear drum just needs tightening up a little but access is horrific. I'll get the drum off tomorrow to check that the slave cylinder is ok (it was new a few years ago) as there is fluid on the backside of the drum. If the braided hose to the slave cylinder is leaking it may be visible on the inside too!

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  • 1 month later...

An update on the oil leak... I managed to get a video of the area as the engine was warming up and indeed the leak is coming from the main bearing panel when the oil is warm. So last weekend I drained the oil from the gearbox and engine, drained the coolant, removed all the pipes and exhaust, removed the cables and wiring ready for the engine removal. I'm getting quite good at it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The engine and gearbox is out again! It is always a bit of a worry when the engine struggles to come out but with the help of @Tony D it popped out in the end. 

It seems there was a bit more going on than just the obvious oil leak. There was oil in the bell housing which is not coming from the gearbox. Whilst the clutch was clean the flywheel has oil on it

IMG_20200822_123534.jpg.005547fc7daff3e679ddd7ff245ada60.jpg

On the opposite side of the engine there is also some oil splatter. Perhaps this is coming from the bell housing area?

IMG_20200822_152300.jpg.8e37b0d78a586a885d5630df3e807f6b.jpg

I suspect the route cause is the same with not enough gasket sealant used at the rear of the ladder frame.

A guy is picking up the engine today so it should be back fairly quickly but I have some jobs in the engine bay to do and my Speedo drive needs returning before it can all go back in. I must get this off to speedy cables this weekend

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It's best part of 30 years since I took the engine out of my car and replaced it. New found respect for anyone who's done this removal essentially single handed. One thing I've learnt today is that ideally, you need a hoist with a very long arm (over 30 "). Even with bumper off, it was tricky. 

Tony 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A brief update on the oil leak. The guy who has dismantled the bottom end has found a loose bit of aluminium casting was caught in the sealant between the main bearing casting and the block, preventing the sealant from sealing.

I just need the speedo drive back now.

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On 14/09/2020 at 09:40, UAB62 said:

At least it wasn’t anything terminal and you’re well practiced at putting the engine back in😃

Only with help. I've tidied up the engine bay today and put the engine bay body bolts in. In my rush to get the engine in years ago I realised that the bolt near the exhaust manifold was impossible to get in the hole from either direction so this was a job that needed doing with the engine out I now have some m8 threaded bar with nuts on either end. Just waiting for the Speedo drive now before the engine gets delivered and it all goes back in.

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