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Hi,

 

My car is due a cam belt change after four years and 6000 miles. This time I'm going to do it myself as it looks pretty straight forward although limited space as I will be leaving the engine in. I don't have access to a ramp, but I will remove the rear deck and have the car high on axle stands (I've been off the pies for a couple of weeks to help the clearance!) - has anyone replaced their belts in a similar manner?

 

The last time the belts were done the tensioners and idlers were replaced too. What is the general opinion - should I replace the tensioners\idlers regardless?

 

Can anyone confirm the torque settings for the tensioners and idlers.... just want to be sure I have the latest values.

 

Comments much appreciated. 

 

Cheers

 

Julian


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up to you. Sure with only few miles done the question can be raised, but I wouldn't take the risk to replace only the belts.

For any type of car the classic time belt service kit comes with new tensionner, so for a supercar I would'nt save on that.

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HI Julian,

 

As you are aware I'm about to do my third cam belt change (with the engine in) and you're right it is strait forward though be sure to check and re-check the cam and crank positions before cranking the engine over by hand (with the spark plugs out as this will massively reduce compression resistance).

 

In my humble opinion, once you've got the old belts off, you should give the tensioners etc. a thorough inspection make sure everything is rolling freely and properly aligned (with no play) and if they are in fine fettle then feel free to re-use them. As yet I have not had to replace either of the tensioners, though I have had to replace one of the intermediate shaft cam drive pulleys (during my first belt change). There are others on this forum with far greater knowledge than me, so it might be prudent to wait a while and go with the popular consensus. I always find Gunter to be a font of wisdom on such matters and have never regretted taking his advice.

 

All the best.

 

Ps. I tried to attach a PDF with the torque settings and images but it wont upload  

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As for factory settings & Nm on all bolts and 'step after step' how to do, just give me a note ..as it is not allowed in this board to post one of those open download sources for the workshop in clear type. ;)

 

..Garth is right there, a timing belt change is not rocket-science, it is just straight forward mechanic works.  It's up to you if you want to change the idler & tensioner wheel too.. .

From my point of view it is more important that a sealing rings on the camshaft and intermediate shaft are not 'hard' and stil clean, additionally that there is not to much 'play' within the intermediate shaft bearings ..and (!) how those timing wheels of camshafts / intermediate shaft look like on the tooth surface, as if you have one engine with a set from those (still unspecified) low-quality batch, with a soft anodized coating ..those wheels will eat up the new belts. Maybe this problem is already related to the belt tension itself, so keep an eye on that !  (Lotus specified it to inspect the tension every 20.000km ..or the equivalent in miles -to get enough engine hours/miles out of a set of belts)

 

Mike Sekinger had at least one set found on one of his engine rebuilds, and my engine showed this even more seriously.


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Thanks guys for your input, much appreciated. I've decided to replace the tensioners and idlers along with the belts.

 

Garth \ Gunter I have sent you my email address via forum mail. Any information such as torque settings etc you have and are willing to email me will be gratefully received.

 

Cheers


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You've got Email/PN as reply   ..hope those *pdf are of good use for you -it is the workshop-collection (link) that I send all with request, so would guess it is exactly what Garth has send you  :D


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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Hi,

 

Really stupid question.....

 

So the timing disc is in place, pins removed and the engine is cranked to the correct degrees to set the Left Hand belt. That is the left belt when standing behind the car looking towards the front and NOT the left when looking at the face of the timing disc?? 

 

Small dilemma!!

 

Thanks!


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look there in the workshopbook, the illustration on *section ED, page 21* ..with the cylinderhead, this shows what is the LH and what is the RH. The illustration on page 23, Section ED  ..with the belt covers named  indicates it as well.

 

RH does have the oil filler, and is also meant to be *bank 1* in the OBD-reference list from Lotus.

..as you allready turn allways clockwise on the crank pully on front of the engine, the LH head marks come first . ..after that the RH 'tensioning-angle' follows on the timing-angle disc.

 

New timing angles are 80° & 120°  ..as far as I can recall (see LEW tech section there for reference !!)

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Thanks Gunter!


Esprit SE-V8

TVR Cerbera V8 4.5

Range Rover V8

Jaguar XJR

Suzuki GSXR1100

Honda CR500R Red Rocket

ZIP 250 Racing Kart

VW Golf GTi

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Hi,

 

Back to work on the car today - been a while as I have busy.

 

The idlers I took off the engine have the four embossed marks facing away from the engine ie towards the front of the car. These marks are on the flange (or "closed") side of the idler. The replacements are identical with the exception that the four embossed marks are on the opposite side ie not the flange side but the "open" side. I understand that the embossed marks should face outward towards the front of the car.

 

Should I install embossed marks outwards or flange side outwards with the new idlers?

Does anyone know the torque value for tightening these down?

 

The tensioner bearings are a tight fit on the eccentric adjusters. Is a press required for removal\replacement or can they be carefully tapped apart?

 

Interested in any comments!

 

 

 

Cheers 

Edited by julianwhite

Esprit SE-V8

TVR Cerbera V8 4.5

Range Rover V8

Jaguar XJR

Suzuki GSXR1100

Honda CR500R Red Rocket

ZIP 250 Racing Kart

VW Golf GTi

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