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Just been to see the car at the painters I picked a orange metalic hope this looks good when it's built up!

Nearly 2 years have gone by had to put the Esprit on hold due to work & family commitments, I have found some time to start the engine build over last few weeks now all the parts are back from bal

IMHO the tan suede look interior of the S2 with smooth leather seats has never been bettered. It was only the quality of the materials which let the original down, if you did it again with modern gear

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I bought all my spares from http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk

I replaced all the tubes on the back of my chassis as they were pretty much all knackered. The rest of my chassis was pretty good.

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Got most of the parts from S and J. Some of them you can get on Ebay. My blog has got the part sources on it with bolt sizes. This will save a lot of time. Refurb the loom, dont buy a new one. Get the wires from the supplier on my blog and the connectors from ebay. If you list the parts you need I may have some bits to help.

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Fabian,

Where is your blog so I can have a look? my loom is in a very bad state Dave had done a lot of work on the rear engine loom section but under the dash/pod sections is a total mess with a lot of cut wires and broken & burnt sections so I was going to buy a new one but I've heard a few mixed reports on them?

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It would be very easy to peg the loom on some board, strip the loom tape off, and replace the damaged wires using the correct colour and rating from auto sparks. Its very cheap also. Its over £500 for a new loom. There were a lot of circuits missing on mine or needing uprating. Ended up striping the new loom to correct and uprate circuits. If you do get one made made sure its for your car. Ie correct blower wiring,  headlamp circuits for halogen bulbs and window motor upgrades. Auto sparks can supply one, for a cost.

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Fabian just had a look through your work wow your doing a amazing job on that car it will be better than new!! I really don't know about my loom I think it is too far gone it has been cut and patched up over the years had numerous alarms wired and cut out. I have been quoted about £600 for a new one but as you say a lot of others that have gone this way have to then rework the new loom. where did your loom come from?

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S and J, but was missing dual headlight motor wiring and dual blowers. Had to remake the entire circuits and graph them back into  the loom. Replacing entire wires in an existing loom is pretty easy, once you get started and much cheaper. Then rebind the loom with loom tape and replace all the connectors. My blog shows you how to release the connectors and swap them over to new wires. Its nowhere as difficult as you might think. 

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1 hour ago, darenwsmith said:

I best have a close look at the tubes once it is shot blasted and take it from there, did you powder coat or paint your chassis? I will have a look on SJ site cheers

I painted my chassis as I'm not a fan of powder coating.

I also restored my original loom rather than buying a new one.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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iam not a fan of powder coating but it seams a lot of people go that way I might consider a 2 pack paint job what did you use? how hard was your loom work I have look at mine and its a mess, ive seen Fabian's work on hig blog and he seems a bit of a professional is it a big task ?

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I used chassis black from Frosts... http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint.html

Restoring/upgrading the loom is not difficult and it gives you the opportunity to add things that Lotus left out e.g. relays for the windows, fans, headlights etc. That takes the load off the switches and improves the reliability of the electrics which is never a bad thing on these cars.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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I'll post some pics to tomorrow of my painted chassis in POR 15.  Highly recommended.

Great to see another full resto, there are a few members going through the the whole saga. Great fun to read of everyone's progress.

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11 hours ago, Rolls said:

I'll post some pics to tomorrow of my painted chassis in POR 15.  Highly recommended.

Great to see another full resto, there are a few members going through the the whole saga. Great fun to read of everyone's progress.

+1 for POR-15. I blasted my chassis, hand painted with POR-15 then topcoated with their POR-15 chassis black over 10 years ago. Still good as new.  

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Hi Darren,

You have to follow the preparation instructions EXACTLY for this paint to adhere correctly.  Clean down to the metalwork, then use their 'Marine Clean' to degrease,then the zinc etch wash (Metal Prep I think they call it). Then I used two POR-15 products for the paintwork. First was the 'normal' POR-15 glossy black paint, two coats as I recall, then one topcoat with their 'Chassis Black' which is a UV resistant satin black. The 'normal' paint is not UV resistant and recommends top coating to avoid any problem with long term exposure (not that a chassis gets too much sun, but while you are going to the trouble..)

I got all mine from Frosts.  It can be applied with excellent results with a brush and any brush marks flow out nicely. Dries quickly even in cold damp weather.

I'd caution against spraying unless you have decent air-fed mask protection as this stuff is pretty nasty and has carcinogen contents. 

 

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10 hours ago, darenwsmith said:

 and a broken windscreen so have to go windscreen shopping!!

Pilkingtons are the place to get a windscreen from. I think the S2 is the same part number as my S1 so...

HT0540 CL is clear
HT0540 GN is green

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Hi Jon,

 Thanks for the paint procedure big help, would I have to do the marine degrease as I have had the chassis shot blast very clean? do I go straight on with the gloss POR15 black is their no undercoat?

 

 

 Paul I will give them a call today hope they deliver!

cheers guys

Daren

 

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If it has been shot blasted recently you don't..  you must recoat within 9 hours or let it dry completely then lightly sand with 600 to score the service for adhesion. Temperature is another consideration. And, wear a mask per above. It's toxic.

also ensure you rinse the phosphorous off to kill the chemical reaction. 

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5 hours ago, darenwsmith said:

 Paul I will give them a call today hope they deliver

No, I don't think they do! I had to drive down to the Isle of Sheppey and collect mine but I got a tour of the factory and saw them being made which was novel.

Paul.

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Hi roland thanks for advice my chassis has been blasted a week ago I have done a few welding jobs and now its ready for blasting again then I was going to use the por15 prewash is this the phosphate you mentioned I need to fully wash off? What sort of temperature would you say the chassis need to be?

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When you apply the POR15, I encourage you to wear some Tyvek coveralls and some long gloves.  If you have to paint above your head, wear some head covering and face protection.  If it sticks to the car half as well as it stuck to my skin, it will last a LONG time. (Yes, I learned the hard way that it is thin and drips a lot when you paint with a brush over your head.).

Jim McLeskey Richmond, VA USA

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Apply the Metal-Prep wash liberally and leave to act according to the instructions then wash it off with clean water. I used a hot air gun to ensure that all the water was off the metal and bone dry before applying the POR-15 paint. As I mentioned earlier, you must follow the preparation and application instructions to the letter or it will not adhere properly.  It doesn't matter what temperature you apply it at - in fact cold and damp actually cure it faster. Much quicker drying than Hammerite. Perfect for a winter project in the UK !  Spot on advice from Jim about covering yourself up - this stuff sticks to skin like nothing else. You can get it off with cellulose thinners before it dries, but once its dried on your skin its tough to remove. 

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