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Right then better start my '77 S1 project... - Page 25 - Projects & Restorations - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
CharlieCroker

Right then better start my '77 S1 project...

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Now this is the advice I require. I had wondered along these lines and possibly attaching a wire or piece of string to the wheel box wiper attachment area to help replacement.

However the easiest way of detatching the drive from the motor is to remove the cover on the motor and remove the crank held by a circlip. The tubing assembly then just slips out. Either way still a good idea. Many thanks for that.

I wondered this as well, but as I was recovering the dash it made sense to remove the dash & heater.

 

btw, I agree with pbharcout re removing the wiper motor after 1st undoing the gland nut. You need to pull the wheel box out with the tube attached, and the motor and drive cable out of the way..

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Great day out at the NEC show, really enjoyed the day and meeting all the lads on the excel stand, special thanks to Angus for organising everything. Great show, some awesome cars, and a massive auto jumble with loads of bits and bobs on sale.

Slammed with no air in the shocks.

20150329_163441_zpsij10by9h.jpg

20150329_113111_zpsbknixkaz.jpg

Ride height.

20150327_120433_zps6dbjgisu.jpg

Edited by CharlieCroker
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An update:

 

The original Raydot mirrors on my car have 100mm centres on the screw holes. When removed a further hole was revealed giving 75mm hole centres. By drilling a further hole it would give the required 65.5mm that the replacement mirror requires.

Now this is OK for me as I am intending to respray the car anyway.

Until the replacements arrive I do not know if the base of the mirrors will cover the redundant holes.

As for bobbins inside the door for the mounting I think this must be a later addition as I have no evidence of this on my doors. Bearing mind my car is about 4 years older than Charlies. I would think that someone maybe, along the way, decided that mounting mirrors with two screws into just the fibreglass was insufficient.

Did you ever ascertain whether these mirrors will cover the original screw holes in the door ??

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I never did ascertain if the original holes were covered as both both mirrors arrived damaged through poor packaging.

Even if they had not arrived in this way I would never have attempted fitting them as the quality was disgraceful.

The mirror head backings were Stainless Steel so thin and flimsey that they bent easily. The mounting stems were rough cast pot metal with a dull finish. A total waste of time.

To add insult to injury the seller wanted me to return the mirrors for refund at my expense to Portugal (not eBay policy since September 2014 for defective goods).

My advice is to stay away from this seller and this product.

Not received any refund as yet.

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Oh dear, that is a real shame^^ Never mind at least you tried, it's not your fault that the mirrors were poor quality. Don't dwell on it just move on. If I had a pound for every poor purchase I have made over the years I would be a millionaire. Onto a brighter note, I have a professional video of the panther planned this weekend so I'm hoping the weather holds out, as soon as it is ready to release I'll post it on here, that way everyone will be able to see it on the road even if you never see it on real life. :-)

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It was a great shame the quality was so inferior as it can be the case with repro items of spurrious origin. I had expected better than the rubbish sent. Oh well, Raydot chrome ones must be out there somewhere ( I have one I wish I had two) black ones will have to do for now.

 

Look forward to the video.

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I never did ascertain if the original holes were covered as both both mirrors arrived damaged through poor packaging.

Even if they had not arrived in this way I would never have attempted fitting them as the quality was disgraceful.

The mirror head backings were Stainless Steel so thin and flimsey that they bent easily. The mounting stems were rough cast pot metal with a dull finish. A total waste of time.

To add insult to injury the seller wanted me to return the mirrors for refund at my expense to Portugal (not eBay policy since September 2014 for defective goods).

My advice is to stay away from this seller and this product.

Not received any refund as yet.

Thanks for the info, I was considering these as well.

Sorry to hear about the trouble you had and hope it gets resolved soon.

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Just been shooting a film with inmotion-media.co.uk, very tiring work indeed much more than you would think. Here's a still photo, I've had a sneaky preview of the film and it's looking great, shoud be ready for release sometime this week.

20150405_105133_zpspujgo34x.jpg

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Coolhand does it again,

 

This vid is so COOL (I believe this is the correct expression) after all the months of hard work I am sure you are pleased with the results.

 

I am too old school for "slamming" and air suspension (I can not see the point) but it sure looks good and those wheels!!!

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but it sure looks good and those wheels!!!

That there is exactly the point ;-)

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Looking for some advice today. I've started messing around with those mx5 lift motors I've had lying around to do the headlight conversion. I've got a couple of original switches which I'd like to use in the dash panel when it's all wired up correctly. Now I've managed to get the thing working in one direction using this switch, however how should this work? Don't I need it to switch one way to open then back to close, at the moment it's just going one way? Help or advice welcome.

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If I understand you that makes sense that the motor only goes one way. It's the same as the Lucas motors on an S2. Turn it on, the motor turns 180 degrees to lift the pod. Turn it off the motor completes the circle in the same direction to close the pod again.

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Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Ah ok. But on the S2 is it a case of hit the switch button once for a 180 rotation and then stop the motor? At the moment when I click my switch I have a continuous 360 rotation, what stops the motor from a continuous loop?

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Ah. No. In theory you flick the switch and it does a half revolution before stopping itself. That happens because of the internal switch mechanism which is described in detail elsewhere in the forums

Have a look at this link to describe the set up of switches, relays etc. in the Lucas system. Can't believe the MX5 motors are that different:

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p6.htm


Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Might be worth sourcing an S2 switch if it is internal to the button.

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The S1 rotary switch will have exact the same effect as the S2 switch - its got three positions, off, side lights and head lights. So as long as you can wire it in as per the S2 diagram it would certainly work with the Lucas motor. I can't speak for the Mazda unit, but others will know better.

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Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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As I understand things there is no reason to use extra switches, the original feed is sufficient with the addition of two 5 pin relays.

 

Wiring colours and connection details are to be found on a very detailed listing made by Black Eclat a few months ago including working drawings of the mounting brackets

 

However, I have recently seen a working version that uses no brackets and so neat too.

 

BTW the green wire if connected would need a simple on off switch. It raises the headlamps without switching them on for washing purposes.

 

As for compatability there should be no problem as the TR7 sourced motors were replaced by a Japanese unit on later Lotus models.

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How good is your French? Seems like our friends across the channel have taken a liking to the elite, or at least that's what I can make out!

http://delessencedansmesveines.com/2015/04/stanced-lotus-elite-video-dledmv/

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I have fitted MX5 motors for my headlamps with no real problems. They work realy well including flash. A normal 5 pin relay and basic wiring. Unfortunaly i am not good with computers and uploading pics etc. As i have said before i will be at Duxford on the 3rd of may. I wi ll be happy to give you a wiring diagram and even take a headlamp out for you to have a look. Forget the green lift wire its a very complicated wiring system and not needed.

regards Clive

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