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removing the head and cam towers


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ok the plan today is to remove the tensioner assembly to check to see if it needs overhauling, and replace any parts i need to. I will add pictures later today of the full assembly and the stripped and cleaned assembly, i intend to strip it completely down then after a good degreasing and clean i can then coat in some aluminium high temp paint and rebuild then re-lubricate parts and re-fit to the engine.

Edited by bigsi
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update:

i managed to actually get into the engine bay and sit astride the engine while sitting on the center support section. I was able to bend over the engine to get to the tensioner and remove it.

Unfortunately i was unable to get a 4 mm locking pin in the hole prior to removal, however all the parts remained with the assembly.

I removed the tensioner and took it to my desk and proceded to clean things up, i noticed that the bushings looked nice and clean and white there is no untowards movement in the assembly.

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It took me about 20 mins to clean it all up as best i could and examine it, i will now re-coat the aluminium and re-grease everything including the center bushing pin.

here are the pictures of the full assembly, also a picture of the now cleaned and shortly to be recoated oil feed to sump pipe off the turbo.

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also re-coated now are the distributor, the front rotor also and the wastegate assembly which will be re-assembled tomorrow.

I have bought some special exhaust manifold 2 stage paint to coat the exhaust manifold and wastegate adaptor with to prevent further corrosion. The engine area will be covered over with a custom made aluminium under tray held on by the same quick lock fixings used on rally cars. There is a company not far from me called Rallyweld who do most of the wrc welsh teams cars.

the rebuild is getting nearer, just a few more bits to get and im ready to refit items.

Edited by bigsi
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im using some manifold coating that frost restorers her in the uk sell, first coat dries in the air the second will cook in the oven at 150c that with the under pan im making will prevent more crap getting in there.

oh and taking the engine out once a year and cleaning things up and replacing parts will help also.

now the weather has turned im getting impatient to get the head assembly back on and the belts etc and move her to my friends workshop so i can work on her in the dry and safety.

after the head work is done etc i could still pull the engine and get to the rear framework, clean it all up re-coat it all and then re-fit the engine back in there.

i just want her ready for the first rays of sun in the new year and i really want to get to a meet..

Edited by bigsi
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Nice work, Simon.

Are you going to replace the bearing in the tensioner? many people recommend doing this every time the belt is replaced as a precaution against it seizing and causing lots of damage. It's a piece of cake when the tensioner is off.

Do you really plan to take out the engine every year just to clean it up? That is major dedication!

S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

i did some tidying today and sorted some of my tools out, i noticed on my carbs that there is a load of yellow crystal stuff and gunk building up on the carbs bodies.

i dont like the look of it so what do i clean it off with? nothing to strenuous im just want to brush them clean or can i blast them with the pressure washer and then dry them out?

this is what they look like.

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Yuck, those carbs havent seen the light of day for a while!

Try using a bit of white spirits and a small brass brush.

Carb Cleaner/Brake Clean also works, but is messier to use , evaporate very quickly , and would cause the whole house to smell.

I wouldnt go near them wth the pressure washer/water If I were you. :angry:

And for goodness sake dont overdo it Mate! :angry:

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i could only stick 10 mins of trying to clean the carbs, as im right handed it was difficult.

slightly cleaner but still not good enough, i may have to get them done somewhere.

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i havedecided to leave tyhings alone for a bit im a now bloody knackered.

Edited by bigsi
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Can't offer a DIY solutiuon Simon but I needed a new carb for my Landy a while back. Bought an off-the-shelf replacement for the Zenith which was a weber...no end of problems - lack of power, icing up in cold damp weather - eventually a company started reproducing the Zenith..thank god I thought. Nope, crap build quality, warped heads, loads of issues. Anyway, bought a duff zenith carb for a fiver off ebay, covered in muck and stuff, then sent it to a compnay called Carb Exchange - http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/ - and for roughly the same price as a 'new' unit they refurbished the old one.

Anyway...the refurbed unit came back ABSOLUTELY SPOTLESS and 2 years on haven't had a single problem. It breathed new life into my 45 year old Landy and the service was superb!!

I've no idea if they'll play with the dellortos but if they do then I would highly recommend them for service and quality of the end product!!

Good luck, chap!

Pete

Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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i am thinking about taking the engine out of the car shortly (with help from my friends here) i have thought about doing this as it will be easier to refit the belts etc and i can get to the framework to clean it all up and coat it with chassis paint after a good blast clean up.

it will also be easier to clean up the engine before refitting.

i was looking at an engine stand for sale and its only about 39 all in and it will take a 350kg engine, will this be strong enough for the esprit block?

also as the head is off is it ok to take the engine out without any liner clamps on?

this is all just a thought at the moment as im not sure what to do, but i cant leave it like it is for too much longer as the exposed liners are starting to become coated in oxidisation and i have to keep cleaning them up in this crappy weather.

oh yeah... and im bloody bored out of my head!

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forget the above, there is no way on earth im going to manage that for quite a while yet!

added:

i managed to get outside and check things over, i spent 10 mins giving things a clean down and deoxisdisation.

i managed to clean some of the top of piston 4 crown, and noticed a smal dent/mark in it, nothing major but a small mark none the less. i am going to get a fine fibre nylon brush head and fit it to my flexi shaft and clean the others later this week a bit at a time.

here are pictures of the current state of things.

here you can see the mark in the piston crown.

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here you can see more of that yellow crystalisation on the oil pump body(i think its that)

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Edited by bigsi
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Take it easy maye your supposed to be resting!!!

Why not cover all the exposed stuff with a fine smear of grease??

It'll stop it all oxidising and can be cleaned back off when your good and ready....

Unless thats a big no no go do it tomorrow and then stay in bed for a few weeks!!!!

Simon

Chunky Lover

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my curiosity got the better of me so i popped back out to check something.

i managed to clean a bit on some of the others to find small marks in all the piston heads!!!!!!!!!

see piccies to see what i mean, im sure they wont effect the runnng and are not serious enough to hit a valve head now.

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i gave everything a liberal spray of wd40 before i recovered it all, im going to borrow a friends compressor and air nozzle tomorrow and give the liners and pistons a quick blast of air to get the bits of crap out of there so it all stays clean in there.

also how much does the block weigh in my car? im going to get the engine stand anyway, i think its for the best that the engine comes out. to get the belts and bits back on...or i think so.. i dont know i leave it open to the voice of experience and advice.

dont worry im not overdoing it im just making sure there is no more work than needs to be, woman was keeping an eye on me!

Edited by bigsi
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SI

I can't tell from the pictures but are all the marks in the same place give or take? it could be the markings put in by Lotus as usually the pistons are are weight matched in sets and i can't see any other markings on them to identify this.

Also please get some clamps on those liners, if they move you will get a leak when you have lovingly rebuilt you engine.

Clamps are not difficult to make, you could use large washers on the studs and a length of tube over the stud up to the thread then use a head nut to bolt it all down.

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can i just use some 6mmX30mm flat with holes drilled in the right place each end, then some tubes on each hole with a washer and nut on top? that ok? i was worried the piston tops came up above the liners i dont know really.

if thats ok i will get some made tomorrw.

thanks simon

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is this engine stand man enough for my turbo engine? if so i can order it tomorrow.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p...=2050&g=107

also whats the correct way to sling this engine for removal? with the gearbox attatched also?

i have decided under advisement to get one and take the engine out to finish reassembly of all my parts and i can get some por15 chassis paint to do the rear frame and some engine and gearbox paint also after cleaning them off with stuff from frost's, i can also replace all the rear bushes when I'm ready to do this.

Edited by bigsi
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i would imagine the engine stand should be 'man' enough for the job Si, the block is an alum one so not too heavy.

make sure the lift is a long reach one! also, you should find it a lot easier to remove the rear hatch completely.

Лотос - для тех которые знают разницу

ENIGMA for those who are paranoid or download one :)

 

 

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Without wishing to encourage you to ignore doctor's orders, here is a topic that had some useful info on removing the engine engine swap thread

I would think that 227 kg (about 500 lbs) capacity is enough. I have it from a very reliable source that the engine weighs a lot less than that as you can see below.

Harald the 907 series engine weighs 275 lbs. (inc the alternator and starter, but without a clutch assy)

So Im guessing the 910 must weigh about 320lbs.(give or take) taking into account the extra weight created by the Turbo,inlet tract, wastegate, wastegate manifold and vacuum pump etc.

Edited by USAndretti42

S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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i cant get over the fact that as of today there has been 1990 views of this thread since i started it, who would have thought something like this would have been so engrossing!

well from now on im going to photo everything i do, change, renovate and also now i have got my nice brand new dvd digital camcorder (pressie from woman) i can do some movies also.

so if and when the engine comes out i will film it and anything else we do that might benefit from being a movie.

thanks for making this a successful thread guys.

bigsi

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HI SI,

YEP, THAT'LL DO THE JOB. I'VE GOT ONE AND I HAD MY ELITE ENGINE ON IT FOR SIX MONTHS. JUST MAKE SURE ITS BOLTED ON NICE AND TIGHT BEFORE YOU TAKE THE WEIGHT OFF THE CRANE AS THE ALLOY CASING ON THE BLOCK DOESN'T LOOK LIKE IT WOULD TAKE MUCH TO SNAP IT AROUND THE STARTER APERTURE.

SHANE

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