Tips for brake kit fitment required

[Qavion]

Just got my PNM Engineering brake upgrade kit in the mail. It's for the front brakes of my '89 SE, but I'll be changing the pads and fitting braided lines on all 4 wheels. I've looked at the instructions at LEW, but there are still a few things I'm worried about.

 

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EModifications/Front_brakes.html

 

For reference, I don't have ABS.

 

There are tips online about:

 

1) putting grease around the bleed nipple threads to stop air leaking out via the threads (when bleeding the brakes), but if I'm changing the brake lines, this would be the least of my worries.

 

2) fully depressing the brake pedal prior and during line removal/installation so that air doesn't get into the master(?) cylinder if the reservoir level gets too low. Can you use rubber bungs or caps to slow down the fluid drainage?

 

Would you recommend splitting the job into different stages (e.g. doing the rear brakes later), tackling the job one wheel at a time (line/pads/rotors, then moving onto the next wheel), etc.

 

According to some sources, the bleed method used at LEW is not ideal (reverse pressurisation), so I'll probably go for the two man method. My father has a background in car maintenance, but his skills may be a little rusty (he's 88) and he's not familiar with the Lotus brake setup.

 

Thanks!

 

Cheers
Ian

[Vulcan Grey]

Just replace everything at once and replace the fluid and bleed. There is no way to avoid air in the lines with that much being replaced. I've done it, and the system bleeds fine with the 2 man method.

[andydclements]

I'm with Travis, you can reduce the amount of air that gets in (conical bungs) but it's probably too late by the time you can get them in. They are fine if you're taking callipers off and will only be undoing a union that's free and easy (so quick) to undo. Fresh fluid all the way through isn't a bad thing. The method that applies vacuum at the bleed nipple is good, if you have the kit.

[Qavion]

Thanks, guys !

 

Just wondering what's the best place for jack stands for this kind of work. Supporting the body or the suspension? Supporting the body would give me more clearance in the wheel arches, but supporting the suspension might give me more stability (?)

[Qavion]

There's a ambiguous statement in the manual about removing pads.

 

"2. Slide out both brake pads. Referring to the illustration, remove each anti-rattle spring/guide plate/support plate ONE AT A TIME..."

 

What are they talking about? How is it possible to remove a number of items simultaneously?

[Qavion]

Hopefully my last two questions   My PNM brake kit came with springs, but I have no idea where to put them on the caliper. Perhaps the Greenstuff pads don't require these springs?

 

Anyway, here's a pic of the calipers and a sample spring (2 per wheel)

 

http://www.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/Lotus/GreenstuffPads&PNMCalipers.JPG

 

Also, there are spring clips on the rods between the caliper halves, but two holes in each rod. The calipers came with the spring clips in the holes closest to the caliper pistons, but what the extra holes for?

 

Thanks!

Ian.

[Qavion]

PNM just sent me this. Problem solved.

 

http://www.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/Lotus/caliper2.jpg

[Qavion]

Just a heads-up for Australian buyers of UK or any overseas brake kits.

 

In Australia, all brake modifications have to be tested and certified by an approved Australian automotive engineer. Otherwise, the car will not be legal (and will invalidate your insurance).

 

For example, PNM kits currently come with braided hoses supplied by Exact-Engineering which don't have any markings relating to standards (e.g. plastic tags attached to the hoses). It seems anyone can make a hose in the UK? The Exact-Engineering website information is insufficient to keep the Australian regulators happy.

 

PNM went to a lot of bother to find all the brake data for me, but the weakest link (legally) is the Exact hoses. if you buy these PNM kits, I advise that you buy and fit additional hoses which do keep Australian regulators happy.

 

I now have to source new hoses and repeat the whole messy, awkward, time-consuming process of removing, fitting, bleeding and testing

 

Cheers

Ian.

 

P.S. Note that this certification process can be anywhere from A$700 to A$2000, depending on who does the tests.