Does anyone find the seat bases too flat?

[superdavelotus 124]

I've driven the car for a few days now and notice that the seat bases don't hug you in as much as they could do. It may be because I am quite tall? I've had a quick look at the seats and I've come to the conclusion that the front needs lifting to tilt the rear part back. I did this mod on my Esprit and it makes the seat more comfortable and also aids supporting the back of your thighs. On the Esprit, I took the seat out and each corner had a 4-6mm thick washer. I simply took the ones from the back and doubled them up at the front. I doubt these washers exist on the evora seats but you never know. I do want to tilt the base up in a similar fashion.

Over the next few weeks, I'll give it a try and also take some pictures. If successful, I might even do an install guide in case anyone else is interested.

 

 

Regards,

 

 

 

David Walters

[JAWS 439]

I'd be interested in how you get on David. I'm tall and think they are a touch short in the base but maybe your plan of attack might solve this.

[superdavelotus 124]

Hi Jaws, it does works as I've done this before. I am 6'-3" and find my knees do lift quite a bit and subsequently the seat base feels short.

I think as long as there's enough thread left on the bolts then all will be fine. Even if it isn't then I could always replace the bolts for longer ones.

[DanR 69]

Can't comment on the Evora seats but on my Esprit I stripped the seats and pop-rivetted a metal sheet under the front foam. Even though that foam is thicker and triangular shaped it collapses under the weight of the thigh offering no support. But not anymore. Also check where that section of foam sits on the front tube and you'll probably find it spitting.

 

I made a sheet for behind the air lumbar support too. As it is from the factory, pumping it up or down just pushes it backwards instead of into the small of the back. With something solid behind it, the lumbar adjustment works as you'd expect.

 

Since doing those mods I am much more comfortable and can enjoy a full day without any pain developing.

[TBD 781]

Simple mod I made 3 years ago.

 

You need a couple of 8.3 mm washers, preferably large outside diameter and thick (3mm). Then you will need longer M8 screws (i believe it was 35 or 40 mm).

 

I put 3 washers in below the front screws (stock is one), giving the front about 8 mm more height. Makes for a much more comfortable sitting position.

[superdavelotus 124]

Hi TBD,

 

Yes that's the mod I want to do to mine. Will have a look at the weekend. Thanks for the tip on the washers and bolt sizes.

If I get chance I will take some pictures.

 

 

Regards,

 

 

 

David Walters

[superdavelotus 124]

Hi TBD again,

 

Just a quick question, does the stock seats have any washers fitted under the seat runner as standard?

 

 

Regards,

 

 

 

David

[TBD 781]

If I remember correctly it does have a rather thin one.

[Bibs 11,725]

[superdavelotus 124]

Hi all,

 

I've done my first little mod on my Evora this morning and raised the front of the seat base up to help support the back of my thighs and also feel like I am sitting in the seat rather than on.

Here is a step by step guide below:- 

 

Tools:-

6mm Allen key

6mm Allen key bit and socket set

 

Parts:-

10mm thick large washers or spacer with 8.5mm internal hole (aluminium preferable)

8mm x 40-45mm cap bolt (optional if owner want same depth of thread to fix into body)

 

 

Time:-

20-30mins per side dependent on method

 

Guide 1:-

1. First famialarise yourself with the seat base and locate the 4 cap bolts holding the runner to floor.

 

 

 

2. Using the seat base adjuster, slide the seat to it's most forward position and remove both the rear cap bolts using a 6mm socket drive. This makes undoing the bolts easier but if you don't have one then a 6mm Allen key is fine.

 

 

 

 

3. Now slide seat runner to it's most backward position and remove the two cap bolts. I had to use an Allen key as my socket drive wouldn't clear the underside of the seat.

 

 

4. Now carefully tilt the seat forwards or backwards and unclip the seat belt wiring harness.

 

5. You can remove seat from car, taking care not to scratch the leather sill or centre tunnel. I found that lifting the seat forward, then tilting the seat back makes the headrest clear the door frame. It's a little tricky so be careful! Now's your chance to vacuum the carpet under where the seat used to sit as you'll never get another chance!

 

6. Now remove the existing black washers from front holes only and retain these. We are going to reuse these and place them over our new ones. In my case, my new washers were taken from an existing Esprit I used to own and were mill finish aluminium. So placing the existing black washer over the new masks the shiny material and makes it look original. Place the two washers over the existing holes.

 

7. Refit the seat back into the car taking care of the leather and other materials that might get scratched. Guide the seat base runner and line up the holes over the holes of the washers.

 

8. Reinsert the cap bolts. I've used the existing ones as mine were approx 35mm long and there are still plenty of threads to hold the seat down, even with the new washers added. If you prefer, buy some new longer ones to suit. I loosely put all 4 bolts in first to make sure they all went into their retrospective holes without cross threading, as now the new installation is slightly on an angle.

 

 

9. Now tighten up cap bolts to the recommended torque settings. A word of warning, even to those who don't perform this mod, all of my bolts on my driver's side were only finger tight and came undone with no effort at all. One bolt was even loose! So please check yours as the driver's seat gets the most use.

 

10. Check to make sure seat base adjuster works OK and you have full movement both backwards and forwards.

 

And that's the job complete!

 

 

 

Guide 2 (takes half the time)

1. Using the seat base adjuster, slide the seat to it's most forward position and loosen (don't remove) both the rear cap bolts using a 6mm socket drive. This makes undoing the bolts easier but if you don't have one then a 6mm Allen key is fine.

 

2. Now slide seat runner to it's most backward position and remove the two cap bolts. I had to use an Allen key as my socket drive wouldn't clear the underside of the seat.

 

3. You can now tilt the seat back enough to lift the existing black washer up and slide your new washer/ spacer in underneath, making sure you line up all the holes.

 

4. Reinsert the cap bolts. I've used the existing ones as mine were approx 35mm long and there are still plenty of threads to hold the seat down, even with the new washers added. If you prefer, buy some new longer ones to suit. I loosely put all 4 bolts in first to make sure they all went into their retrospective holes without cross threading, as now the new installation is slightly on an angle.

 

5. Now tighten up cap bolts to the recommended torque settings. A word of warning, even to those who don't perform this mod, all of my bolts on my driver's side were only finger tight and came undone with no effort at all. One bolt was even loose! So please check yours as the driver's seat gets the most use.

 

6. Check to make sure seat base adjuster works OK and you have full movement both backwards and forwards.

 

I hope this guide is beneficial to you guys and note, any modifications to you car is at your own risk.

 

 

Before picture of seat

 

 

After Picture showing seat tilted up at front

 

all,

[TBD 781]

Nice writeup! DO consider the longer bolts. The originals may look long enough, but remember they are the only thing holding the seat in place in case you have an accident (which will give them a massive load).

[superdavelotus 124]

Hi TBD, 

 

Thanks for that.

Good call on the safety advise, I'll take another look and measure the amount of threads it's using and make an assessment from there. I reckon it was a good 10mm into the body captive nut. The runner is approx 3mm thick as is the original washer. My new washer is 11mm, making this 17mm. The captive nut is sunken into bracket by approx 5mm, leaving 12mm left (1mm lost at the end of the bolt) into the captive nut. 

 

 

Regards,

 

 

 

David