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S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation


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What a surprise, the final Nextel coat was as easy to spray as the primer. Just need to keep it all wet and follow the manufacturers guide for mixture and temp. This stuff turns to a felt like surface on its own as it drys, sort of growing it's own fibres. Amazing! Think I'm a convert or just got lucky! Can overspray it if the coverage isn't good as long as you do it pretty quickly after the first coat. Do not mist coat with this stuff!

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Did you remember to do the 10 screws you need for the vents and the gearstick cover?

 

Paul.

.....and the ones for the steering column cowel

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On my car the vent screws were literally wood screws with a metal clip on the back. The heads are countersunk so they fit flush in the vent fixing hole. The ones which hold the gearstick surround down were self tappers but I don't have any of the originals :(

 

I'm not convinced the steering column shroud had screws which were Nextel coated (but as always I could be wrong!). I think they were just black self tappers and looking at Steve Fulcher's website it looks as though that's what he and Nick used?

 

That coating won't flake off if you prime it correctly.

 

Paul.

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Paul/ Jon,

Will be spraying up some screws shortly. Jon were these screws the same as originals. We're the heads slotted or positive, and were they flat or domed? 3/4 or 1 inch long. Will be spraying some for other guys so want to get the screw correct. Will use black on the binnacle. Thanks.

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On my car, the vent screws that came out were as in my last post, thats what went back in. Black in my case, painted in yours. The 4x column shroud and 12x instrument panel retaining screws were No.6 x 1/2" pan head pozi self tappers.

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Finally finished the fuel system. Made a new 10 mm aluminium plastic coated fuel pipe and used AN 6 elbow with an adapter. The SU fuel pump is a 3/8 BSP thread.post-17315-0-97646400-1426011235.jpgpost-17315-0-99546900-1426011255.jpgused Locktite thread sealant, expensive but effective. Bending the pipe required a pipe bending tool, as it's quite soft, if you bend it without support the walls will collaspe and restrict fuel flow.

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Finally got round to looking at the trim for the screens. I confirm what Jon said. The S and J clips only fit the front windscreen. The tailgate upper and lower clips are different angles. Bought a piece of .5mm stainless for a few quid on ebay. Have made one clip and three left to do. Cut it out of the stainless using a hack saw, file and vice. The trim can be bent by hand to match the curve of the body, be careful though as it bends easily! First clip doesn't look pretty but works. How did I make the clip?

1. Transcribe angel of trim corner to stainless.

2. Cut out and file smooth, with the hacksaw.

3. Scribe width from S and J front clip, make slightly wider than required then file to exact fit.

4. Make 3 more, measuring angle for each one.

post-17315-0-37928000-1426343436.jpgpost-17315-0-09011900-1426343470.jpg

post-17315-0-72687300-1426343494.jpg

post-17315-0-05334400-1426343522.jpg

post-17315-0-72812400-1426343547.jpg

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Nice pics - you beat me to it - I did my front windscreen trims yesterday. Will post a few pics on my restoration thread including some nifty trim hold-down tools that Paul pointed me at.

 

 

Incidentally, not sure how accurate you want to be with the colour scheme, but I thought I'd point out that the inside lip of the tailgate area in your picture above should be painted black to match the underside of the tailgate. Maybe you want it white for a reason but I thought I'd point it out before you glue the glass in !

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Hi Jon,

Thanks. Yep still have to paint the black in the tailgate and around the door edge. Just thought I,d try and make all the trim clips as the stainless arrived yesterday. Was quite straightforward. Plan to put the tailgate glass in soon. Want to run the engine before carpets. Lot of extra bits to buy, make, replace on this job. Think I have found a source for the serrated headlamp rotor nuts, now I have identified the thread type. Have to buy a wiper bezel also and spray the Nextel screws. Does the front windscreen sealant leave a gap at the front of the dash? Or does the sealant sit on the top of the dash?

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Does the front windscreen sealant leave a gap at the front of the dash? Or does the sealant sit on the top of the dash?

 

If you apply using the Dinitrol tip as supplied, then it puts just the right amount of sealant on to fill the 4mm gap without overspill anywhere. It looks neat.  I did buy the 'Lower Screen Finishing Tape' from SJ (SJ082U0009) which is a 40mm wide black adhesive strip that goes side to side across the bottom of the glass, but I'm not sure I need to fit it.   In your case as you have a light painted dash it might be more obvious.

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Not familiar with the tape, does it go on the outside of the glass along the bottom? I was thinking from inside where the sealant touches the dash might look messy without a finishing strip of black plastic?

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