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S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation


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Front spoiler.

Have repaired the mounting on one side and radiator now installed. Cooling fans are 3 Kenlowe 7 inch bespoke units. They are very efficient and use only 3.6 A each. I am remaking the original Lotus wiring to the fans with 17 A green and yellow cable and waterproof connectors. The fans can be removed and reversed within each unit for either blow or suck as required. The blades are ultra efficient curved design. There is insufficient space to mount the fans behind the radiator because of the anti roll bar. So they will go in front and be used in the blow configuration. More pictures to follow.post-17315-0-16070100-1423423911.jpg

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This is the back of the reversible 7 inch fan. The Kenlowe fits perfectly, but isn't cheap. It seems to be more efficient and use less amps than the competition.post-17315-0-39791000-1423573063.jpg

Three fixing kits, from that well known universal supplier!

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If tripple Kenlowes can't cool this down, nothing can.

Have to remake the original fan loom. Another job.post-17315-0-21014200-1423573232.jpg

Have started to rewire. The new loom has missing circuits, so are fabricating them using the same colour coded wires. Have saved the dual headlamp motor harness from the old loom. The dual blower circuit is also salvageable as they were both added to the original loom after initial production, on my car anyway.

Have started to fit horns. I have used two snail type one on each side of radiator. The bodyshell has wiring holes already cut out for the dual horns.post-17315-0-65242100-1423573569.jpgpost-17315-0-28147700-1423573605.jpg

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For those of you considering a new loom there's a lot of work involved to upgrade and modify circuits, if they are missing. It's also is expensive. My new loom has several relays added that were not in the original for the lights. New is great when it's done, but repairing the old loom in hindsight would have been quicker. Can post more detailed info on the rewire as I go along if anyone is interested.

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Have been working on the new Loom. Most of the circuits are now identified. Have found several connector blocks missing, ignition wipers and switchesa. The Loom does not have the seat belt, choke switch, double blowers, double headlight motor circuits. Also the wire guage has been reduced from the original. The original fuses are mostly 17Amp. Lucas changed the wiring specs some years ago and reduced all gauging slightly. However, here there are significant differences. Probably because the new loom is an S1 loom and my old loom is more like that of an S2. The picture shows the old loom wiring against the new. The new wires are much thinner. If they have been doubled this will be acceptable or they may still be sufficient to carry the loads. But will have to check every circuit and rewire as necessary. Option B pull the whole lot out, refurb the old loom and put it back in. At the moment I'm favouring option A. Press on check all circuits after at the endpost-17315-0-76993200-1423685722.jpgpost-17315-0-60494600-1423685746.jpg

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Fabian - don't assume just because the wires look thinner that they are de-rated from the original. If the loom uses 'thin-wall' cable, then the conductor actually has greater cross sectional area, it's just the insulation which is thinner. It's done to save weight and is the standard for new cars. Google 'thin wall cable' and you may be able to check. Autosparks also has a writeup on cable sizes on their website - I suspect they probably made your loom.

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Hi Jon,

Thanks, didn't think of that. Will google and measure the conductor area with a micrometer and do some calcs. If your right that will save a lot of hassle. Have been using Autosparks for all colour coded extra wires, qtheir really helpful and dispatch is quick.

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Have measured the ignition wires. Each strand is .3mm, counting he strand I believe they are 17 amp. The equivalent 17 amp wire is thinner because the insulation thickness is reduced, thanks Jon for pointing this out. Have decided to fit the new harness and if I don't like it, remove the harness refurb the original and do the Job again. Have managed to switch over the plug connectors from the original loom. Easy when you know how they work. Each metal connector has a tab. When pushed into the plastic housing the tab springs out and stops the connector from being removed. To remove them use a small screwdriver to bend the tab in, then pull out the wire. The new harness already has these type of connectors so you then just push them in.post-17315-0-43122000-1423759721.jpgpost-17315-0-23530600-1423759752.jpgpost-17315-0-10983400-1423759772.jpg didn't take very long to switch them all over. have cleaned the fuse boxes and fitted them for a circuit test. Converting the light circuits will be a challenge, as I have not seen them working before. Incidentally all the fuses are Lucus and 17 amp continuous 35amp peak. Except one of the ignition circuit fuses which is 35 amp.post-17315-0-06183900-1423760139.jpg

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Have got the headlight motors working on a temporary circuit with four relays. The new loom is extremely sparse compared to the old one which bares more resemblance to an S2. Well, I can now confirm the purple power cable is 17 amp in the old loom. The motors rotate in only one direction. Two current signals from the switch are required to raise and lower the pods. It will take a while to add all the additional wires to the old loom. All the associated switching wires are also missing. Might be easier even at this stage to revert to the old loom? Will keep going at the moment, adding to the new loom wire by wire. Will then have to rebind it all.

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The relays used are the 5 pin type, this is what is inside the relay. If you have light motor problems - easy to test relay operation and circuit continuity with the relay diagram and a test meter. Once you know this it's much easier to understand how the circuit works. Although to replicate the original loom requires no understanding. Im turning the new loom into an exact copy of the original, except using thin wall cable for the 17 amp circuits to keep the bulk down. I have ordered all the colour coded cable from Autosparks. Can't fault them they are helpful reasonably priced and the cable arrives quickly. So far cost £30 for more than enough wire and bits to complete. This is how I intend to do it.1. Identify all missing wires, their current rating, then order from a supplier.2. Using your ebay £7 test meter in resistance mode, determine the start and end position of each wire. 3. Cut to the required length and attach fittings.4 loosely tape all missing wires to loom.5. Unbind the loom over a small section working along the loom at the same time, ensuring all wires are still neat, rebind the loom with new tape and the new wires integrated.pNew circuits can easily be added if required. The design of my old loom was pretty good, so no need to change( as it had been modified by Lotus from the early S1) - It was just a bit old and grubby, but could have been renovated. Still always nice to have something totally new. Shame most of the wiring will be hidden.post-17315-0-87189400-1423989952.jpg

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For anyone with no electronics knowledge pins 86 and 85 are a solenoid( electromagnet). Above this in the diagram is the switch which is actuated by passing current through pins86/85. Then you just follow the circuit in the Lotus manual.

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Have completed removal of S1 pod motor wiring, and rebound. Have decided to replace all relay bases, so everything will be as new. The relay bases are easy to remove. Use something small like a rivet to press down the metal tabs on the spade connectors within the base, then the connector pulls out. New bases are available from that well known supplier unwired. Only have two more cables to insert and the front loom is completed as per my original.

Have to say the thought of adjusting the loom is much worse than just getting on with it. Hasn't taken long at all so far.

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Have almost finished entire loom. Used thin wall wire for additional circuits. How do you determine what the current carrying capacity is of a wire? Easy, count the strands. This thin wall wire is incredible, it can carry up to 16.5 amps and has 32 strands of thin copper. It's much thinner than the original 8.75amp wire used in the old loom. Easy to add circuits to loom without it becoming too bulky and you can buy the wire colour coded. Have up graded fan circuits with a relay and additional overide switch. Have also upgraded the headlamp motor wires. Easy to rebind the loom in black pvc loom tape. The whole job much easier and quicker than I first thought. Just need to add a fasten belts wire and choke switch wiring. The fans are also finished and tested. They are in blower config, are 7 inch and are placed in front on the rad. have used waterproof plugs.post-17315-0-65580500-1424458224.jpg the fans are bespoke and come from Kenlowe.

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Here's a picture of the rewired relay bases for the headlights, all colour coded wire from Autosparks. The amazing bit, the purple wire in the picture is thin wall, 32 strand and has a capacity of 16 amps! The black wire are thicker and only 8 amp!post-17315-0-80790000-1424692539.jpg

hoping to test wiring this week!

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Well just completed all circuits, will test tomorrow. Removed all loom tape added all circuits and rebound. Will have extinguisher on hand! Still haven't found correct fuel Union as no threads fit! So decided to research. The thread for the su pump is 3/8 BSP(british standard pattern). I'm then using an adaptor to go to AN( American Navy) 8. This will then go on to the 10mm aluminium fuel pipe. Which I am remaking, as the first one needed adjustment. I have an adaptor ordered from ebay.post-17315-0-74568100-1424979085.jpg

The loom is much more substantial now. Before testing will tidy up!

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Tested loom yesterday. Rear lights had a problem. The right light cluster was dimmer than the left. Quickly traced this to the earthing wire in the rear light cluster. The earth wire runs between all bulbs in a chain. There was a break in the wire, it was still connected but only by a few strands. Made a new wire now lights are the same brightness.

All other circuits worked except the headlight motors would not turn. Inspected the relays and noticed one of them could not possibly work as it only had three wires going to it. Checked the S2 wiring diagram. This shows the relays from an underside view. Sure enough the diagram showed a headlamp motor wire was not there. As the loom was updated to copy the original car there is no way the headlights could have been working, at some point the wire had been removed. Anyway installed the wire and the motors are working. Have decided to replace all relays with new ones. Wiring has proved to be one of the easier jobs. Having done it the cheapest easiest way to sort your existing loom would be to use the existing loom but replace wires that are worn then rebind the whole thing.

Here's an easy way to do it.

1. Identify all worn wires, count strands, look up on chart the current capacity then order replacement wire in same colour coding.

2. Lay loom out on floor and tape new wires on top of loom to follow the originals.

3. Unwrap loom about a foot at a time, removing old wire as you go.

4. Put couple of bands of tape along foot section to hold wires together.

5. Rebind the foot section with new loom tape. The keep doing this till the loom is complete.

This is essentially how I did mine. Helps to have some electronic background if it doesn't work, otherwise anyone could do this.

What I ended up with is all brand new and an exact copy but it wasn't cheap and still involved work. I think If you aquired the new loom directly from Autosparks and specified exactly what circuits you have, the work would be greatly reduced. Having said that it was only about a days work in total, but I had to wait for wire and parts. Autosparks is the place to get the wire. It's cheap and arrives quickly.

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Nextel! Don't! Find something else. Primer on. This was the easy part. Look forward to rubbing it all down! Would have been a lot easier if it was done when the body was sprayed. But you can do anything if your determined enough. attachment=31336:image.jpg]post-17315-0-71131800-1425401677.jpgpost-17315-0-33606700-1425401809.jpgpost-17315-0-63263800-1425401876.jpg

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Then when you come to fit the switch panels back into the binnacle you will have the 'pleasure' of scratching and scraping it all as I did at the weekend :)

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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