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The elites and eclats and excels came with a few different boxes.   Borg warner Auto. Lotus 5 speed (beans) Getrag 265 Toyota W58   I've never been all that fussy (and I am not saying this is c

Penrite is a GL4 Oil, and is specially made for older cars so there are no dangerous additives in. But for the rear Diff you have to get an EP (extreme pressure) or a Hypoid oil, witch is more or less

:o Jesus... from GL4 to GL5, monogrades to fullsynthetics there is ALL mentioned...   I would guess, that there will be huge differences between a 75W90 and a 20W50. There cannot be 10 forms of truth

penrite hypoid 80w/90 for the gearbox

penrite hypoid 85w/140 for the diff

castrol edge 10w/60 only when the engine is completely cleaned and rebuilt with modern gaskets

 

Interesting - Do lotus recomend a hypoid additive for the 'box'? -  For the Esprit we all spend a lot of time fretting about the paradox avoiding lubricants that apparently eat the yellow metal (sulhur in hypoids...) but still protecting the diff.   Its difficult to avoid it in a transaxle, but seems unneccesary for a box (as there is no hypoid or spiral bevel....).

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The elites and eclats and excels came with a few different boxes.

 

Borg warner Auto.

Lotus 5 speed (beans)

Getrag 265

Toyota W58

 

I've never been all that fussy (and I am not saying this is correct) but I just use a normal GL4 gearbox oil from the motorfactors. Usually "Motorbase" or some other impressively generic brand name that I've never heard of till then.

 

I use it in the diff and the box.

 

edit: in case someone is searching through the archive for gearbox oil and getrags (apologies for thread-jack) some googling suggests you should not use a GL5 in the getrag. Other people are recommending GL3-4, with others saying a dextron II or III ATF.

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Penrite is a GL4 Oil, and is specially made for older cars so there are no dangerous additives in. But for the rear Diff you have to get an EP (extreme pressure) or a Hypoid oil, witch is more or less the same.

Our Diff is a classic Salisbury Diff and its a Hypoid Type so you realy need that kind of oil!

And yes ,for the gearbox a less sophisticated oil will do the job too. (But not into the Diff!!!)

------------------------

Sorry, for the gearbox Penrite Gearbox Oil 30 that is a GL4 and the right one!!!.

The Hypoid is GL5 - Good in the Diff but extremely wrong in the Gearbox....

Edited by LOTUSPOINT
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penrite hypoid 80w/90 for the gearbox

penrite hypoid 85w/140 for the diff

castrol edge 10w/60 only when the engine is completely cleaned and rebuilt with modern gaskets

corrected:

penrite gearbox oil 30 for the gearbox (Lotus 5 speed)

penrite hypoid 85w/140 for the Diff

castrol edge 10w/60 only when the engine is completely cleaned and rebuilt with modern gaskets

Edited by LOTUSPOINT
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  • 3 months later...

An oil with extra zinc is recommended I believe, for the cam lobes especially. I have just put in Penrite Classic Light which is a 20W60 and was recommended. Not sure if this is available in the UK though.

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after a rebuild - yes.

otherwise - no!

So what would you recommend when not after a rebuild?

 

An oil with extra zinc is recommended I believe, for the cam lobes especially. I have just put in Penrite Classic Light which is a 20W60 and was recommended. Not sure if this is available in the UK though.

Not sure if it is actually.  The Gulf recommendation was based on a list from Opie oils.

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We are probably being to precious anyway, the main thing is to change regularly. Have heard all sorts of horror stories with the trend to longer intervals between changes, especially with diesels. Back in the 70's it was pretty much Castrol GTX for everything wasn't it?

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So what oil in an Engine that hasn't had a rebuild I assume there are better options than what lotus printed in the manual 30 years ago

Take a good quality mineral oil (not synthetic) 20W50 (as castrol classic or so)

If you change to sythetic oil, it will free all bound carbon particles in the engine - which is not good!

Edited by LOTUSPOINT
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@Peter: the problem is, there will be not enough experience with modern oil although there are 30years gone. Why? Most of the cars drive not very high miles and if regular or occasionally a different oil was used... Nobody could tell you exactly if an engine fails wether the oil was responsible or not.

I for myself are using 20W50 Classic Sports semisynthetic from Millers and are so far pretty confident with it. But it is only 1500 in use.... So No guarantee that it will work.

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Take a good quality mineral oil (not synthetic) 20W50 (as castrol classic or so)

If you change to sythetic oil, it will free all bound carbon particles in the engine - which is not good!

Really? I've never heard that before. I ran synthetic in my S2 Esprit for a few thousand miles without any issues. Having said that, the benefits of synthetics such as better resistance to oxidation at high temperatures and extended oil-change intervals and higher viscosities at high temperatures probably don't help us as we don't push our cars that hard so a mineral oil will do the job just as well as a synthetic.

S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

5w30 semi sounds too thin for me even with a rebuild engine. Back in the days the common built specs were less precise than nowadays, simply as there weren´t much computer added constructions and machines.

 

I have had 10w40 in it from the PO and already heart attacks with it... but each to their own :) 

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5w30 semi sounds too thin for me even with a rebuild engine. Back in the days the common built specs were less precise than nowadays, simply as there weren´t much computer added constructions and machines.

 

I have had 10w40 in it from the PO and already heart attacks with it... but each to their own :)

Might try 10W40 synthetic or semi, and see how the car likes it when it comes to the next oil change.

 

We'll see...

Edited by soldave
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  • 11 months later...

Getrag 265

 

I've never been all that fussy (and I am not saying this is correct) but I just use a normal GL4 gearbox oil from the motorfactors. Usually "Motorbase" or some other impressively generic brand name that I've never heard of till then.

 

I use it in the diff and the box.

 

edit: in case someone is searching through the archive for gearbox oil and getrags (apologies for thread-jack) some googling suggests you should not use a GL5 in the getrag. Other people are recommending GL3-4, with others saying a dextron II or III ATF.

The factory recommends 20/50 mineralic for the S2 gearbox. Could a GL 3-4be right then? I thought, they are pretty much different from the 20/50, aren't they?

 

 

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There are so many different factory recomendations for the getrag box because the 265 was used in numerous makes of car. The 262 is essentially the same box (without the 5th speed) and it was also used in lots of cars.

Do some googling and you will find lots of different views from BMW, Jaguar, GM and Lotus owners.

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