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Project A/C R12 to R134 in a G car - Page 2 - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
910Esprit

Project A/C R12 to R134 in a G car

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I'm looking forward to mine!  -  I went for the steel versions rather than ally.  Mainly cos they should stand up to more pushing and shoving!  -   Are you doing your own beadlocks or subcontracting?   

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I thought i had posted this been to long today changing cam belt on the na.

 

fittings as these above try auto air gloucester.

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Forgive me my bluntness...

but

why bother with 134 conversion when you can buy genuine R12 on ebay?

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You're missing the point and we all make different choices.  The 30 year old components were worn out and I don't want to recondition the system for a UK obsolete/illegal gas. 

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Forgive me my bluntness...

but

why bother with 134 conversion when you can buy genuine R12 on ebay?

 

You cant. 

There is no way you can buy R12 on Ebay UK. Maybe you could get it somewhere outside the UK but it would be confiscated at customs and might be a big fine. You might as well try buying crack cocaine online. In fact I would be very surprised if you can buy it on Ebay anywhere. Link please?

 

Actually many years ago I sent some cans of R12 back to the UK from Thailand by surface mail. This was before I discovered how serious its taken by the authorities. I spent the 6 weeks waiting for it thinking I might get a police raid at 6am or something and bundled into a van! But luckily it did arrive as it had not been randomly checked.

I'm looking forward to mine!  -  I went for the steel versions rather than ally.  Mainly cos they should stand up to more pushing and shoving!  -   Are you doing your own beadlocks or subcontracting?   

 

Good point. I probably should have gone with steel. I have a beadlock crimp tool. Actually I have done this job before on an Excel. It was much easier!

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Just ordered hose and PAG oil from 4seasons. All in stock, hose by the metre, not expensive. 

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Phase 2 - I've now got all the parts and tools to make the hoses and get the system gastight again.  I'm going to fit one end of the hose fitting off the car and then refit the hoses.   I'll then do the final crimps on the car to get the lengths right and to ensure the hoses can be routed with the fittings in the correct orientation.   

 

Phase 3 - I've decided to go the whole hog and ordered a vac pump & high/low pressure manifold - As there seems to be no restrictions around buying R134a, I'll also do that too.

 

It may all seem a bit excessive, just to get the AC running - on the other hand, I've not had to spend anything on the car other than routine maintenance for a few years.   I could also resell the tools if I choose to.  

 

Next update after hoses fitted....  

 

airconparts.jpg

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Thats exactly the approach I like to take, to be self contained. Buying tools/equipment makes much more sense than taking the car somewhere to get work done.

 

I have a big bottle of 134a and use it on my other cars, all of which need topping up every year and its more than paid for itself over the years. Yes I know you are not supposed to top up 134a systems, you are supposed to recover and recharge, but it does work.

 

Next time I change the cam belt on the Ferrari I will also renew the hoses and the compressor shaft seal on that, as the compressor has to come off anyway to change the cam belt. This evening I made a tool to hold the Sanden clutch while removing the securing nut.

 

Of course this warm spell will end just as we both finish these projects!

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Off topic but the evaporator on my daily driver has sprung a leak and I need to replace it. Local garages all a bit slow getting back to me, and I can see it is not a large job. I assume I have not got any pressure left in the system but if there is residual am I taking any risks by disconnecting it?

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Its illegal to deliberately vent refrigerant R134a into the atmosphere. 

 

Other than that, you may run the risk of 'burning' (by freezing) yourself if there does happen to be residual pressure.

 

Any oil remaining in the old evaporator should be renewed in the new evaporator.

 

However if you can be certain there is no pressure, then its just a mechanical operation to remove.  

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On many cars the evaporator is a massive job which involves removing the entire dash and fascia, Some cars have it accessible by removing the glovebox.

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Yes this one is a glovebox job, the old one is removed by lopping the pipes off and the replacement has an extra join to allow it to be fitted without dashboard removal

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post-13282-0-31490600-1405430350.jpgHow i have run my pipes and insulated them the esprit engine bay is a hostile environment for flexible pipes especially when you are not running the ac.

Steve glad you are fixed up may i suggest you run the pipes through the car to get your route then put your fitting lightly on the end of the pipe mark the angle you need to crimp at on the fitting and pipe. and crimp in the vice the crimping is the most important part of the job. if you try and do it on the car there is a good chance of not doing a nice crimp they can pinch the ferrule on the fitting and even if you try and remove it you willed up cutting the rubber hose which may leave you short on length.

 

Once you have removed every thing in the way of the pipe run it is not to bad a job running them through the car so fit them then remove crimp and re run you have gone to a lot of trouble with the equipment so it will be worth taking the trouble. 

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Thanks for the advice Andy, I am conscious that I've got a single chance to get them right!.

 

Vac pump arrived today....  I'm almost fully kitted out now

 

Have you fired yours up yet?

Edited by 910Esprit

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yep all sweet after i was messing about with disies.

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So High pressure hose fitted from condenser to compresser - bit of a cockup on the giant evap flare,so I'm waiting for a new part. I dropped the radiator housing by a couple of inches to giva access to the condenser - luckily all fasteners still free from 10 years or so - otherwise it would have been a drag.  I'm getting more adept at routing the hose, but its still a real workout in 25 degree heat and humidity!

 

hose3.jpg

 

pipe1.jpg

 

Andy - this is the one you are interested in as you can see the pipe just follows the wheelarch until it emerges behind the waterbottle. 

 

pipe2.jpg

Edited by 910Esprit

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I am curious as to how this hose gets from the area pictured into the area behind the washer bottle. There must be a hole/grommet behind the glovebox somewhere as there is no direct path through there. I will have to drill a hole.

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The problem I have with my DIY installation is I am not sure where to drill holes to get the 2 pipes through the bulkhead. The area behind the glovebox has no path forwards as shown in the picture. The only place seems to be directly at the base of the A-pillar which seems like a very bad place to go drilling big holes.

 

If anyone has an A/C car with interior stripped I would be very grateful for advice.

 

BTW what on earth is that random 2N3055 transistor doing there? I have no idea what thats for and have not got round to tracing where the wiring goes.

post-16906-0-44568200-1406148501.jpg

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I'm struggling to get my bearings with that photo.  Is your door removed?  Is that already the top of the of the internal wheelarch?  If you follow the wheelarch (in the cabin) you can see mine has already started to drop downhill before the hose disappears from sight.  I would be surprised if the shell is fundamentaly different for AC/Non AC - unless the shell changed between 82/84?  

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watch out for fouling the head light pod. you will need a p clip to hold the pipe.

i will post some pics of the pipe run in the morning off to silverstone tomorrow in the m100 elan

 

always put a light coating of oil on all your joints even the o ring ones. and oil the pipe before crimping. 

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The picture shows the same area as your pictures above but with the fascia, glovebox, crossbeam and A-pillar trim  removed. There is no route through from the passenger area to the gap between the wheelarch inner and outer skins. Here is a wider shot

post-16906-0-33139200-1406154219.jpg

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Oh yeah - its completely different!.   So there must have been a redesign of that area of the shell between 82 -84....  Unless there was an AC only shell, which I doubt.  Is it deffo original?  i.e. no evidence of repair to front quarter?   On the plus side I think you can just cut a hole and let the pipe through

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Andy,

Mine's an 82 A/C na, in exactly the state you want:-(... Pipes are all in place, but lump ( therefore compressor) and condenser are off.

Will try to get Dad to do some pice today.

Dave

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