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Jacques

The story of Little Red Riding Hood

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Answer: a Sport300 intake hose, which is bigger and specific for that car. Since I rund that turbo etc. I need it so it can actually fit over the intake side of the turbo itself. Will report back what I find after some dynoing.

OOOHHHHHH! ;) Did the ram air mod tonight, and it sounds soooooo good! I can hear the turbo spool up , the intake roar and the Waste gate chatting. Very addictive.

I've got a feeling, that under the sheeps skin, there's a Wolf lurking. Maybe there's a connection between the wolf and Little Red Riding Hood, after all?

Pick up seems to be slightly better and the turbo possibly coming on a tiny bit earlier. I'll need to dyno it to see what actually happens. More later.

Kid regards,

Jacques.

ram air mod.JPG


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Went with a friend in Little Red Riding Hood to Knutstorp raceway today. Tried going around the track with a friend in his Elise. Max pedal nearly all the time. Pretty fast - brushed off a Mclaren save the straight.

And I am now overly sun burnt after two track days in full Sun.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

Here I am at Knutstorp, back in civilian clothing ;)

 

Knutstorp 2017.JPG

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Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Well done Jacques, it is nice to see the lotus  getting to do what it was designed for :)

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@Jacques looking good with those AWI wheels, i may have missed it in your thread but did you have any issues fitting them to your SE?

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Thanks Guys.

No, no issues on my set.

There are the commonly described issue of either making the front Wheels fit the "old" style hubs, or change the hubs to the newer style.

Reason being, that the diameter of the mounting face on the "old" style hubs are bigger. In total one can enlarge the mounting surface on the front Wheels 1mm - 2mm in total in diameter. Written e.g. on lotus esprit World.

Anyway, mine were already done, and therefore the front Wheels were fitting my "old" style front hubs.

In hindsight, given the choice, I would install other later v8 front hubs, and thereby also accepting big AP Racing brake discs, instead of not being able to install those directly. Since then, I have asked pnm if they could make up big 320mm vented discs with alubells, to fit exactly the "old" style front hubs. One these the disc are installed on the innermost surface of the front hub. On the newer v8 style, the front brake disc mates the hub on the outside - as per the rear hubs.

In reality then, this is no longer an issue, and as big brake discs now exists readily to buy, one can choose whatever one likes.

Note: after having enlarged the front Wheel mounting surface, one would need some sort of insert ting, to mate the reworked front Wheels to say a v8 car.

The other question of having anything that scrubs the body of the Esprit, more precisely the front Wheels scrubbing the inner Wheel Arches on the SE, I can only say that on my 1990 SE and with Toyo Proxes T1-S assymetric tires installed in the common V8 size, there is no scrubbing. I run standard suspension in sampers and springs for the moment. Lowering the car greatly, will enhance the chance of tire scrubbing. Another tire brand and model or size, may also provoke this. Only later, the Wheel Arches were changed slightly, so that no scrubbing were arising.

I hope to buy a set of Nitron suspension later this year or next, but as they carry no national or international, or EC approval, I will probably have great trouble having Nitron suspension MOT'ed, as it is simply illegal (in my country). I'll get back to this later on. Hight-wise, I'll only be lowering the Esprit slightly. I don't want to get into the wishbones having an uneasy angle, making the well balanced, well steering Stevens Esprit a not so welldriving car.

As the suspension I am looking into is also somewhat harder/firmer, and I am installing LOTAC red poly bushing all over the car, it will not be a real problem.

To be honest, my car is not ready for some "tracking" yet, as it's too soft and I have not yet installed the Sport300 extra bracing mid and rear. But at least parts are back with me, ready to be installed. I spent the better part of two years getting the brakes I wanted and only a few weeks ago added them to Little Red Riding Hood, to bed them in.

On observing and talking to the owners of the two Esprit S4 on Knutstorp, I'll say that there are eight points of attention:

1/ the tires were narrow rubber on SE Wheels or S4 Wheels. Not enough grip in fast cornering, desprite being R888. The lack of Esprit Wheels as for example the AWI or others (if one wants to stick with factory Wheels) on the market is a problem. The SE Wheels are small and inadequate, also having a bit too high side walls on it's tires.

2/ the suspension were standard S4 being too soft.

3/ the front arb are thinner on the S4 than the SE and the car weight shifted too much when cornering hard.

4/ the brakes were on noth cars Toyota Bendix brakes, being totally overheated after 6 or 7 laps therefore having to pit and cool. Not even a round of "slower" not having to brake at all (nearly) would cool them down. Brakes on the Esprit til AP versions, were totally under performing to say the least. The car is simply too fast for it's brakes, and smoke coming out of the Wheel Arches and brake pedal going right Down to the bottom with out any brakeing effect, were the result. Engine power and steering were fine on both cars.

5/ they used original rubber bushings, being too soft for track use, and giving too much when hard pressed.

6/ Toyo R888 is a fine tire, but on the Esprit in very warm weather, it seems to be a Little too soft for the cars weight, so it over heats slightly, there fore making the car float a bit. Also happened to Elise and Exige. A tiny bit harder compound would have been good. Tirewear were generally good though, with no real danger after 8 passes during the day. Knutstorp have somewhat gentle asphalt, where as Sturup seems to be harder on tires, with more visible Wear.

7/ car is too heavy. While actually performing quite well on the track compeeting with Elise, Elan, MGF, Exige, Evora, 911 (trimmed 993), Seven, Caterham, Some modern McLaren and purpose built track racers, and Cobras and more, and the Esprit did not lack in outright power or speed, but In complete factory standard trim with aircon, stereo, soft wide comfort seats, spare Wheel, Jack etc, it needs to be much lighter. But of course most Esprits are not made for track days by their owners, but very road worthy sportscars, doing a track day once or twice per year, where as the aforementioned cars were nearly all special purpose rebuilt for track use.

8/ stiffer chassis. Can be rectified by using Sport300 parts.

Just my observations.

Kind regards,

Jacques.


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Small update:

Little Red Riding Hood have been a tiny fraction lethargic, as the intake hose for the Sport300 turbo, is too narrow. I made a "coupling" between the narrow tube and the wider intake housing on the turbo as a Means to drive, while I found the correct Sport300 hose.

So, today as weather permitted, I took the old hose off, and installed the pretty stiff new Sport300 intake hose. It's thicker and more solid made. Fittings moved over, as they could expand. At the Picture below, I am about to press the new hose on. Very tight and nice fit.

Wauw, a bit more energetic and free reving, I'd say. Can't wait to do the intake plenum project. And a ported cylinder head with bigger intake valves. But that is, as they say, another story.

What I did though, was to install new rawlnuts, clips and screws of the 2 correct sizes etc, for the two rear quarter trim panels. No more rattleing, and dancing around. Great day;)

Finished off with an engine wash and cleaning underneath the car as Little Red Riding Hood was displayed in a Classic car exhibition on a horse race track last Sunday.

Little Red Riding Hood is most satisfied and purs very well - roars loud.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

 

rear quarter panel right.JPG

rear wuarter panel left.JPG

sport300 intake hose 2.JPG

Sport300 intake hose.JPG


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Repaired the Graphics on one of the rear calipers today, as it had suffered a stone accident. A measely 300 gbp for a new set of Graphics :cry:

Also made a slap of heat shield to protect the tubular rear frame against heat radiation from the tubular exhaust manifold, which is very thin. Should do the trick.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

 

ap repaired.JPG

heat shield 1.JPG


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Went to the Beach the Whole day and shortly after starting the drive home, the clutch pedal stayed Down. Wouldn't return up. Stopped the car on a narrow Little backroad and fiddeled with it a few times, and it went back up. Went to the freeway and hastily got home. At an intersection close to our home, the pedal got stuck Again, butmanaged to get it up working Again. And as we drove into our street, the clutch pedal finally decided to stay put - in the lowest position. Fortunately that meant that we had to push Little Red Riding Hood some 25 meters to the garage. A quick look and some qustions on here confirmed that the clutch master cylinder from Girling had given up the ghost after some measely 27 years of service. That should call for a warranty repair from Lotus ;)

Fortunately a friend on here dropped by with a new slave cylinder (5/8"), and next day I went to the other end of the country to get the correct fitting to make it adapt to the SW Lotus center brainded hose I had installed earlier. Very strange thread. 7/16" and M10 by 1, but had to make sure it went straight on to the new clutch master cylinder, so cut the thread once more in that.

The SE type cars, at least the left hand side driven ones, have a stronger bracket going from the brake master cylinder/vacuum booster, to the clutch master cylinder support bracketry. That made it a bit hard to loosen all four nuts on the brake master cylinder booster bracket, but a Little grinding on the 11mm ring spanner, and it did Work okay. I had to swap the pin and clamp over from the old Girling onto the new one, as it's longer on the Girling master cylinder.

1 hour later and it was ready to bleed with 1 Liter of fresh DOT4 brake fluid. The old one had blasted it's seal towards the cabin, visible by looking at the pedal section in the cabin. Despite me having changed the DOT4 fluid every year as usual, the remaining fluid was dark as cola from the seal that gave up.

Position of the clamp from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch pedal. The upper of the two holes. And pedals are same level. No ned to adjust the freeplay , as it was 3-5mm as before.

Now, I did buy a one man only for the job thingy, but that is utterly crap, and two friends came by and helped me pour fresh fluid, bleed the valve and Work the pedal. 1 hour later, it was good to go, and a fresh test drive vonfirmed that the clutch is now fully working Again, smooth, a bit hard and very controllable, with no slippage or any other issues. I've driven some 300 kilometers since then and it's perfect.

Morale 1: better change both the hose, master cylinder and the slave cylinder before going anywhere far ;)

Price on my friends watercooled 911 Chaos car: 274 gbp. Esprit: 45 quid ;)

Lifetime on 911: short, like 2 in 2 years. Esprit: 27 years.

Morale 2: stay put on the Esprit ;) And do it yourself.

Or if ever in doubt, remember what I heard yesterday, when a small boy told his mother, while at a red light: "Nice Porsche mum, but oohhh that other red one, that's a racecar" ;) 

Little Red Riding Hood can sing the high notes once more.

Kind regards,

Jacques ;)

 

master bracketry.JPG

old clutch master cylinder.JPG


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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That would make a pretty cool T shirt Jacques :)

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11 hours ago, silverfrost said:

That would make a pretty cool T shirt Jacques :)

Oh you've done it now!

Jacques, I'll have one too!! Medium for me! :D 

But make another design so we REALLY see it's a Turbo SE. That's the important part. 


Vanya Stanisavljevic '91 Esprit SE | '91 Elan SE | '97 XK8

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and this:

 

1006.jpg

and this, plus the one on top.

 

1007.jpg

And here is a nice videoclip made by ordinary drivers in their cars:

 

Kind regards,

Jacques


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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That last design was awesome! I will try and do some of my own when I get the SE out. :D


Vanya Stanisavljevic '91 Esprit SE | '91 Elan SE | '97 XK8

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This Summer it's been raining nearly every single day, so not much time to enjoy driving or working on Little Red Riding Hood, but today was time to continue working on the Futura Modular's I bought long time ago, so I took some of them further apart, cleaned them up a bit and having already polished the outer lip by hand, which takes 4 hours per lip, cleaned up every single bolt, and had all nuts in acid bath and regalvanized, I made a quick test to see, if they would clear my bigger brakes, which I did not have on the car, when I last tried them on. They fit and steer clear of the brakes ;) Not by much, but by enough. It was important for me to determine this, before continueing spending time and energy on this project. The dish is much wider on these weels than the AWI Monobloc, so naturally the spokes pass close to the brakes in comparison. That's all part of the old school sporty look of the Futura Modular wheels. There are black prints on the Wheels as my gloves were rather greasy and dirty. But they clean up real easy.

Next is taking the outer lips off, clean them up from old sealant and have the inner barrels sanded down a bit and repainted. Then the inner 5 star part (the spokes) of the front wheels should be cleaned up as well of old hardened grime and rebored 1 mm bigger radius to fit the bigger SE hubs, so 2mm in diameter and chamfered. Like the AWI Monobloc I run now.

I have had the inner barrels inspected for integrity and trued and tested in all directions, likewise the outer lips, so it all runs completely straight and radially perfect as well, and should have no future failing because of hidden weak points.

Since I want to keep the labels on the outer surface of the inner barrels, I will only have the inner surface of the inner barrels repainted for good looks and future easy cleaning.

There is a procedure for assembling the stars to the barrels and lips, so that they are perfectly centered and won't jump up and down, before being fully multi criss-cross tightened to spec and re-Sealed, and then checked again for balance.

The black lettering on clear "OZ Racing" stickers on the edge of the outer lips are all carefully peeled off and I will have new ones made for when the Wheels are finished. They are on fleabay, but not the correct ones. So, I'll have a company make them correctly. On my set, those stickers were positioned 180 degree opposite the valve hole in the outer lip, so I'll do that again.

I also need to order special tools to fit the heads of the bolts and the redone nuts. I'll do that while the centers are being enlarged for fitment.

More later.

Kind regards,

Jacques ;)

 

packed.JPG

test 1 rear.JPG

test fit 2 rear.JPG

test fit 3 rear.JPG

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Work continues on the Futura project.

Next up was splitting the inner drums from the outer lips. As all bolts are out and the inner "star" is off too, the only thing holding the remaining parts together, is the Black silicone sealant and dirt and corrosion.

Taking a Sharp hobbyknife and cutting slowly through the sealant wil seperate the two parts easily by hand.

Then laying Down the blade, and slowly scraping the remainig sealant off, will make the parts ready for scrubbing with a sanding/scrubbing pad as can be seen. It's a bit long process but saves the surface as good as possible.

Even though I initially washed the complete Wheels 7 times with various cleaning agents incl. tough Wheel and engine cleaners,  it's time for more cleaning. So this time I arranged each part on a rubber mat on the floor, having a spraying hose ready and then used a green rough sponge to apply toilet cleaner. It Works as an alkaline, so take care wearing propper mask, glasses, gloves etc. Letting it do it's Work ½ hour, and then spray off. It's very good at dissolving burnt in brake dust and old grime. But not old rubber remains from the balancing pieces. I repeated the process. Then I cleaned the Wheel parts with a strong normal cleaning agent two times and rised off thoroughly. Then drying all parts carefully.

This good fun took full 6 hours of work. Next will be more cleaning on the "star" parts and then taking off old rubber remains, but for now, I am slowly cleaning all 450 holes from old dirt and silicone.

One may normally not see this, but the Wheel parts are factory marked for each Wheel designated: 1, 2, 3, 4.

More later.

Kind regards,

Jacques ;)

 

klar til at splitte.JPG

korrosion.JPG

splittet.JPG

slibe gummi af.JPG

klar til vask 2.JPG

klar til vask.JPG

3.JPG

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Great work Jacques,   May take plenty of man hours but a least that way you save money and learn a new trick at the same time :)  The outer rims in the photo look in very decent nick :thumbsup:   


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No extra sealings apart from the following:

A Black bead along the boltline between the inner drum and outer lip. Then all of the bolts had a small dab of same Black silicone sealant as well. Nothing else.

Even if the Wheels are functioning fine and looking fine, I take it wóuld still be a good idea to renew and look them over carefully. For example corrosion which is not visible except if you take the Wheels apart, build up between the inner drum, the outer lip and the inner "star". To measure them, have them trued for straightness and radiallity and even also xray them, would be a good idea on such old Wheels for such a fast car.

Kind regards,

Jacques.


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Yesterday, on a nice drive, the battery tell tale lamp began to show itself. So went home, and have now tested the alternator as good as I can. No or at least very Little voltage at 4,25 Volt. Does not charge the battery. Took the intake plenum chamber off and undid the two screws at the voltage regulator.

The syndrome on the 90 amp Valeo alternator seems to have beun on mine too. It did not drip as such, but sure enough, it had become very soft, thin and sticky, very near dripping.

I have now begun to take off the sticky stuff to reveal the Electronics inside it.

Here's two hours of Work witha  small screwdriver.

Next is to clean it up and take the Circuit out and test it, and rebuild it myself.

A new one ordered from JAE in the states, and another one on fleabay. Both cheap.

If this does not get the alternator back to propper working conditions, I'll order a complete unit. We'll see.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

 

Voltage regulator valeo turbno se 1990 1.JPG

voltage regulator backside turbo se 1990 2.JPG

voltage regulator 2.JPG

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Fingers crossed for you on the repair Jacques   :)  Have you checked the brushes also as one brush can fail, but still charging but reduced ?


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Hi Dan,

No I haven't as I don't know how to?

And that vould well be the problem, as I measured 4,25 Volt coming out from the "plus" on the alternator.

Kind regards,

Jacques.


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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