The story of Little Red Riding Hood

[Jacques 920]

Strange. I see them no problem. That must be something for meister Bibs?

No, sorry. I keep everything original, as I can bring them back to 100% original. I've had them xrayed and carefully checked for running true and ovality, and they are dead straight with no fragile spots. I polished them by hand to mirror shine earlier in this thread.

I am reusing all of the original carbon rings, stickers, bolts, nuts etc. They have all been surface treated to as new.

The new outer lips are now Radinox as I will try them out and see how they fare compared to aluminium.

The paint on the centers and barrels are also the original paint, as I want to stick to that. No stripping paint and repainting with some modern waterbased supersensitive paint. Better clean up the original as I've done, and stick to that. At least that's what I prefer. HIf it would have been badly mistreated or scratched, I would have to have them repainted. But after a good 6 times scrubbing with Wheel cleaner and then 3 times with toilet cleaner, they cleaned up really well.

Waiting for Tool sockets to reassemble.

Kind regards,

jacques

[Giniw 268]

1 hour ago, Jacques said:

No, sorry. I keep everything original, as I can bring them back to 100% original.

No problem, actually I think you are totally right to keep them, that is what I would do too!

As for the sockets, how did you undo the bolts in the first place without the tools? Or maybe you had another set?

[Jacques 920]

I went to a specialist and he undid al the nuts and bolts. And he also undertook the examination of the Wheels too.

As I usually do the split Wheels I've had during many years myself, I need these tools (again) for OZ wheels and in a good quality too. I've done many set's of BBS RM and BBS RS001 in 15" and 16" and various Widths. Great Wheels but does not really suit the later Esprit.

Kind regards,

jacques

[Jacques 920]

Had these made and anodised, so ready to install. Thanks to Vulcan Grey for the drawing.

Kind regards,

jacques

 

[Jacques 920]

So got the special 10 point star socket tools today, hurried home and commenced the reassembly of all of the 364 individual parts for the OZ Racing Wheels for the Little Red Riding Hood.

I double criss-crossed bolts, torqueing them down in 3 sequences.

All bolts had blue removable Loctite, and tightening was done holding the bolt still, and tightening the nut.

All stickers were returned to their places, all marks from factory was kept for balance, valve position etc.

New valves prepared for pressure Measurement system, and with knurled caps etc.

So far managed to build the two rear Wheels.

Little Red Riding Hood can't wait to try out her new ballet shoes.

Kind regards,

Jacques

 

[Giniw 268]

Very nice!

I didn't know about these red stickers. Are they original on the Esprit?

[Jacques 920]

Yes and no. They are originally Black on clear. Mine are now red on clear. Otherwise same design and size plus position.

I'll order some Black ones later on. For now I prefer the red for Little Red Riding Hood.

Kind regards,

jacques

 

[Giniw 268]

^^, I was suspecting it was related to the Little Red Riding Hood indeed

[Chillidoggy 4,222]

So, are those new outers the stainless Radinox 2” front, and 2.5” rears?

I see you’ve changed the wheel centres from the original OZ to Lotus, too.

[Steve V8 1,293]

Nice work Jacques, they look a lovely, especially the Lotus centre caps.

[Jacques 920]

No, as I explained earlier, they are now 2" front and 3,25" rear. The originals are 2" front and 2,5" rear, but yes, it's Radinox from Felgenfuchs. I don't know if other Companies sell these, but that's the only place I could find them.

Yes, I've kept the original parts incl. the center metal discs with the engraved OZ Racing branding. Plus a bouble sticker with the Lotus logo. Spoke to some people about these, and that's what they use too. They should be 61mm, not the 60mm these are, but I couldn't find them in 1mm larger size. That's for the futurae.

One front Wheel now finished too, ready for some very strong air bouble free adhesive tomorrow evening. Only missing one front Wheel.

Kind regards,

jacques

[Giniw 268]

10 minutes ago, Jacques said:

Only missing one front Wheel.

No big deal, you should go out for a test drive: only three wheels on the Reliant Robin has never prevented it to handle properly!

[Jacques 920]

 

 

[Bibs 10,579]

Your security kit will be with you shortly mate

 

[Jacques 920]

Thanks Bibs, looking forward to securing those wheels to the car.

Kind regards,

jacques

[Jacques 920]

Okay, so all four corners assembled and ready for sealant. But now, it's time for dinner

Kind regards,

jacques

 

[Jacques 920]

Ahhhh! After a nice dinner, the deskchair is again ready to do as an assembly stand.

I am using Pactan, a toxic clear sealant that is used by some Wheel manufacture companies. It's easy to use and doesn't give any scent.

I first cleaned up each rim with White spirit, then wiped it down and let it vapourize. Then laid two beads on each Wheel: one inner, then one outer, then flattened with a finger in a nitril glove, which is tested to be resistant against Chemicals as this sealant. It was not needed to use masking tape all round the edges, as it pretty much laid correctly by itself. But that depends on the specific Wheels. The Futura is very easy to Work with.

Now drying behind a closed door in our kitchen for 24 hours. It lays nice and flat. I try to be cautious not using too much sealant, only what's needed, and lay it in the cavity, so the later installation of tires does not catch on the sealant.

Kind regards,

Jacques

 

[drdoom 329]

Looking great, Jacques! I hope to work with Felgen in sourcing BBS style wheels in period 3-piece style, when time comes to equip the S2.

Cheers

[Jacques 920]

Is that like in a RS001 ?

Or something else?

Kind regards,

jacques

[drdoom 329]

Perhaps E52, if I recall the designation correctly. A good friend fitted a set of the sort to his S1 many years ago and it drove and looked excellent. The centres are multi-spoke, rather a snowflake effect. I have some latitude in the choice of style but the main insurer here offers a very good rate for collectible cars, as long as they are not extensively modified. The layout resolved by my friend was 15 x 7 carrying 205/50-15 front, 16 x 9 carrying 245/45-16 rear, so that's likely to be the starting point for me. Beginning to see my home renovation chores concluding in the next few weeks, so looking forward to an uninterrupted campaign on the Lotus thereafter.

Cheers

That would be RS E52.

[Jacques 920]

A Little teaser of the new smaller tires on Little Red Riding Hood.

Seems to suit her just fine. And the 315/30-ZR18 have exactly enough space under the arch. Haven't had a chance to drive the car, as it's laid up for the Winter, so Suspension is rised compared to normal, so will lower Again once driven. Anyway, looking good I think, and nice and sticky rubber.

Kind regards,

jacques

 

[Jacques 920]

A few late afternoon winterpics when darkness fell, hence the bad resolution and grain. Just to show the fitting of the new Wheels.

Kind regards,

Jacques

 

 

[Jacques 920]

[esp88 52]

NIce

[Jacques 920]

So, I am trying to calculate the distance a 315 rear Wheel will have to be tilted inwards to suit the car.

I was told that the Sport300 have a camber of 1 degree 6 minutes. Or rather 1 degree +/- 6 minutes. If we can assume this number is correct, that is the one I would like to work with.

Let's assume this is correct.

Let's also asume the the outer circumference of my rear Wheels are 2030,1mm.

That would correspond to a total Wheel hight of 646,2mm more or less.

First I would calculate the degrees/minutes to angle degrees, by saying degrees + (minutes divided by 60).

That would be something like 1 degree 6 minutes = 1+(6 divided by 60)=1,1 degree.

Now I think I have an angle that I can calculate to radians, to get a decimal number, not an angle.

This I think do by multiplying the degree by Pi and divide that with 180.

So, I think it would be:   (1,1*Pi) divided with 180= 0,0192 (radian number).

That radian number I need to calculate to a useable metric number in mm. which we may call the arch length.

The arch length is the distance between

To do this, I think I need to use a formula saying arch length  S=radian number * radius.

This means   S = 0,0192 * 646,2 = 12,407mm.

So, if I am correct, the distance from vertical to the top point of the rear tire should be 12,407mm, which is easy to measure and adjust accordingly by turning the upper rear arm adjustable nut.

If we use a Lotus calue of 1 degree straight (+/- 0), this would then mean that we calculate the S to be 11,27mm.

My question is this: Is this calculation correct?

And is the Sport300 rear tyre camber correct?

Kind regards,

jacques