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Headlamps not switching off - help required!


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Whilst doing some unrelated tinkering I found that the headlamp wiring diagram in Section ML of the Service Notes is wrong for the A100M6048F main / dip beam & indicator switch. This is what it sh

HI Ian, while I don't have the same car like you, mine's an SE 1990, I would look at the dim dip module and it related fuse (if any) It's an UK car feature. Some delete it. In my service notes (1988-

It's not the pod lift module, Travis. It's the pod delay module (pale-green, looks like a tall relay), situated on the relay 'arm'. Yup, there's the bloke down the road with a 1998 GT3, I'll see if

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What Derek says sounds perfectly logical to me Jimi, I'd start with the easy stuff. But if I have any other views on the subject when I get the new module, I'll post them up.

 

Might be worth having a look inside the pod lift module to see if there's any obvious signs of overheating on the circuit board.

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Margate Exotics.

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Without knowing the circuitry, I'd say first look for the obvious like all the soldering. One or more can go bad from heat/Cold and vibrations. And the two Black capacitors (or whatever they are called in English) can loose their value and begin to "lift" their top. Like a small buldge and after that they turn a little brownish. Cheap and easy fix, if that's the case.

At least they are known to give up after som 5-10 years, depending on spec., and could very likely be the first component in that circuitry to get unstable or give up completely.

 

Most smd's are pretty stable, even to rather extreme heating, so that is where I would look last.

The function of the coil could also be affected, if for example the lacquer on the copper is too thin some places, and in time melts through or by vibration. Should be easy enough to test.

 

The soldering to the relay connectors are obvious Places to look for a bad connection too, if for example it's been taken out and refitted a number of times, as just a small wiggleing can break the solderings on the socket connectors.

 

The IC could well be a little timer circuit, and should be easy enough to find (online), but I'm guessing here.

 

Just my two pence,

Jacques.

Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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I might be a pedantic old sod, but I don't think I'll be delving into the workings of the module for the sake of a few quid! Might be different if they were unavailable, however.

Margate Exotics.

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I ended up pulling the headlamp motor and found there were a bunch of little ball bearings all over the place inside the motor, ordered a reconditioned one to replace it as I have no clue on how to sort this myself.

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You can buy rebuild kits from sjs or I think there is somewhere in the us that makes metal gears and rollers for them

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Its a very common fault with PCB mounted relays in modules like this. I would guess that if you re-soldered the connections to the relay and the connector pins all will be resolved. Vibration coupled with the unsupported weight of the relay results in open circuits.

The fuel pump relay on the TVR is exactly the same, think I had bought 3 or 4 before stripping one apart and finding the real problem!

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I ended up pulling the headlamp motor and found there were a bunch of little ball bearings all over the place inside the motor, ordered a reconditioned one to replace it as I have no clue on how to sort this myself.

How-to pictorial: http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit/headlight/index.html

Parts from http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=50

Visit Sanj's Lotus Esprit Turbo SE pages

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You can buy rebuild kits from sjs or I think there is somewhere in the us that makes metal gears and rollers for them

On inspection the problem with mine is that a metal washer has snapped releasing small ball bearings into the motor itself, the plastic things that come with the rebuild kit are fine. I have ordered a reconditioned one from the guy who makes the metal gears.

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Whilst doing some unrelated tinkering I found that the headlamp wiring diagram in Section ML of the Service Notes is wrong for the A100M6048F main / dip beam & indicator switch. This is what it should look like. Hopefully it'll anyone fault finding in the future.

Section_ML_dip_switch.JPG

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Well spotted Derek! I had to take a long and hard look to figure out what was wrong, but in the manual all three dots on the right side are connected (56 to 30), so the blue wire for the lights would always be powered via the purple feed...

Filip

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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