Check my log out ;)

[jimblob]

Can someone who knows anything about these check this for me.

gt3log.csv

[Vulcan Grey]

I'll take a look.  Are you having some symptoms?

[jimblob]

runny nose slight cough nothing serious   . No not really mate just wanted to know is there anything that looks wrong with that, thanks for taking the time to look at it

[Vulcan Grey]

the thing that stands out at me is that you are running very rich, with very low injector duty cycle.

 

Have you changed your fuel injectors or fuel pressure?

[jimblob]

Nope but the ecu was reset not that long ago.

I find it fascinating that you can tell that from all those numbers   they mean nothing to me 

[jimblob]

What do you think could cause high fuel pressure? bad regulator or something? or maybe I have got weird injectors I wouldn't know, SPARKY help lol

[Chillidoggy]

Sparky's brain is overloaded, Jim. He's still thinking about my headlamp problem!

[jimblob]

Yes ok but the fuel pressure injector numbers thingy broken argh

my life is over the car has to be scrapped cruel world why have you done this to me 

[Chillidoggy]

It could be worse. It could be yellow.

[jimblob]

I think the thread title needs changing to "MY LOG FILE OF DOOM"

[Bibs]

"I snapped my log file" ??

[pete]

hmm i sense a trend here

[jimblob]

wait back on topic do I need to fix something here?

[Vulcan Grey]

take a photo of your injectors. post here.

 

You can check fuel pressure with a gauge.

 

Everything else looks pretty good.  

 

It could be that the ECU was reset and it is relearning, that usually gets better after a short while (maybe 50 miles).

 

How's your air filter?

[jimblob]

aye aye captain, filter is good the injectors all look the same to me 

[Vulcan Grey]

Those are the stock original injectors.

[jimblob]

Right I'm off to France so no time to fix this issue before I go, I'll put 1000 miles on it more than enough to get the ecu to relearn its stuff. I guess running rich wont matter much for now right? I will do a fresh log when I get back if you would be so kind to check it for me again and then we can see if its any better. Thanks for the help so far

[Vulcan Grey]

sure.

 

Next time do a log

100ms setting

 

start logging from a cold engine, let it idle all the way till the IAC stabilizes after 80C coolant temp, and then go for a drive in all gears and get full boost a few times.

[Jonathan evans]

I am having engine trouble on a 1990 SE.  Anyone any ideas from fresscan.  Sometimes it runs affine and then not. Sometimes resetting IAC is good - sometimes not.  Mixture and IAC position look out.  Code 24 on occasion.

 

 

2nd un after reset.csv

idle.csv

[Vulcan Grey]

Jonathan,

 

You data is very coarse, make the freescan rate faster, usually 100ms 

 

The car always runs poorly after a reset.  You should drive it a bit to get it to learn before logging data. 

 

You freescan log should always be from a starting a cold engine, let it idle till warm around 80C, let the IAC stabilize before driving, and then go for a drive using full throttle, full boost, and all 5 gears if possible.

 

Your IAC looks a little high, but hard to tell, since the car never stabilizes at idle for long.

 

Is it stalling, or are you turning it off? 

[Jonathan evans]

thanks for your help.  I attach another scan which I have cut off half way through as the file was too big to post.  anyway, I see a number of odd things based upon standard data readouts from the freescan manual.  Spark advance is too low based on freescan manual?.  BLM contents gets very lean and doesn't really stabilise (250 ish at times).   When I was driving I have had the boost go over 1 and then it has sorted itself out which is bad.  turbo recently refurbished.  The IAC looks low on warm up based on sample data but I don't really know what this means.  The car cuts off when its been driven with enthusiasm and then pulling up at a junction etc.  Sometimes I get error 24.  Overall, engine running is OK most of the time but can go rough and also can go super smooth and great.  Car just not running correctly and is all a bit random so am considering binning the ECU system for a more modern one which I can get mapped better or can this be got running correctly??

 

should I try a different standard ECU?

 

 

Anyway, any suggestions very gratefully received so thanks again

zipped 11 august truncated scan.zip

[Barrykearley]

Having similar issues to this - did you get it fixed?

[Jonathan evans]

Hi Barry,

just looked at this question whilst I was looking for something else.  I replaced some vacuum hose lines as the one to the fuel rail pressure sensor had a hole in it - hard to spot but it is where it sits on the top of the cam covers and loops back around and it had worn through on the underside. Also check the joint on the side of the cam covers (LHS as you look from the rear) also the elbow on the pressure tube to the the MAP sensor (behind the drivers side rear inner pillar so reach in and up from the boot or down from the inside of the quarterlight after removing the cover). In fact, check all of those hard plastic and also the rubber vacuum hoses and the elbows and joints.  check they are routed correctly as its very easy to misroute them (ie crank case breather to MAP sensor which would be an intersting signal for the ECU) - as if these are not working, have leaks / holes or incorrectly connected the ECU will be mighty confused and your car will run very badly.

This sorted all of my poor running issues so it now idles correctly, pulls away with power, doesn't race in revs in a random way and generally runs rather nicely.  Best of all, its virtually a free and easy fix requiring no particular skill or knowlege except the rather obvious understanding that a leaking pipe won't hold any pressure! If only everything on this car was so easily fixed.