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Headlight stress! - Page 2 - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/ICE/HVAC & Other - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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Cheers Mike, just bought a pair of motors off ebay, hope to convert these in the coming weeks. I'm sure it won't be straight forward or easy so I apologise in advance for my future stressed out posts and ramblings!

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    ^ This....

 

 

There are only three possible explanations for the fault you are seeing:

 

1) An electrical problem causing the solenoid not to energise, i.e. dirty switch/relays

2) A stuck solenoid valve, that is being energised and told to open, but doesn't want to.

3) Something mechanical causing friction to prevent the pods rising on the spring when the vacuum is released from the bellows.

 

Disconnect the union on the side that runs to the headlight pods, and they should rise. Leave it disconnected and you will pass the MOT.

 

(Mine has passed its MOT for the past two years with disconnected headlight motors that I can't be bothered fixing) I just wind them up manually before the MOT)

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Cheers Dunc, great advice, I think I'm going to convert them to electric. I've just bought a pair of mx5 motors and will try to convert them as per Mikes advice. Also there is a good weight saving advantage as the vacuum cans are bloody heavy, so they can come out. This car is a custom project now and I want the lights to work but be 'down' at all times until I want to raise them, it's a show thing, trust me. 

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The vacuum bellows are probably lighter than the Lucas type motors and wheelhouse. I've never weighed either, but from memory, I would be surprised if the two bellows were not lighter than the two motor units.


For a show car - when working - the vacuum operation is WAAAAAAY slicker than the thunk thunk of the electric motors in the S2.

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Someone on here said the cans are really heavy, can't remember who, but he said they were 'really heavy' when removed. Just going on someones advice, probably the wrong advice but like I said I want them to be shut at all times. I'm talking about the two belows/cans that are inside the cabin, not the thingymajig (technical term) inside the light pod. 

Edited by CharlieCroker
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Got them working again, seems like it was a combination of a poor earth and the pod catching slightly on the bonnet. Hopefully it will hold out for the MOT on Saturday. Current status = All electrics systems are go!

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Stupid question - Can you reverse the vacuum for the headlight pod operation? I was watching Classic Car Rescue the other night and they had a Corvette which they were working on with vacuum operated light pods, the difference is on the Corvette the pods are in the down position at all times and only pop-up when needed. Would it be possible to do this on the Elite, i.e. reverse the polarity of the vacuum so that they work in the same way? I just think that the car would look a 1000 times better with the pods down when the engine is off, hence why eventually I want to convert them to electric, but if this could be done with the current vacuum system, even better. 

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You could do that except then when they fail they go down - much safer the lotus way. On my car they caused trouble, for the MOT as mentioned above i disconnected and plugged the pipe, put it back on after the MOT. It would also be quite a bit of engineering as the vacuum pods are massive and the spring it a very strong one.

 

I would suggest fitting electric motors, I've fitted motors from an excel SE, because i had those parts around, the difficulty is you need to provide a ground to make the pods go up, I'm using a different light switch from a 2000 odd VW polo, so there are enough terminals to do this.

 

The S2 eclat / elite motors would probably be a much easier fit(?)

 

Mat.

Edited by mat grant
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Goes in tomorrow, not expecting it to pass first time tbh, this mot is more of a pre test so I can see what will need further attention, I'd be amazed if it passes on this test. 

What ever you do make sure it does not fail on something silly like a wiper blade, fuel cap seal, an empty washer bottle or headliight adjustment.

 

I know you have altered the ride height and wheels so have the headlamp rings removed, the adjusters running free and the right screw driver handy. Most testers including me will adjust your headlamps FOC if it is easy to do.

 

All the best

Adrian

(still not driving)

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It passed with no advisories, however like every MOT I ever do, I get everything working correctly before I go in and the second I enter the station something starts playing up, in this case the rear lights started to fail! They also found a few un-torqued bolts in the suspension, but we went around them and tightened everything back up. The lights just needed a tweak on a bad earth. Everything else was perfect, the tester even offered to buy the car, my response 'not for sale'. 

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