Tuned

[ronin]

The BOV works great….

 

I returned the first ARE Dry Sump setup due to the lack of air/oil separator and picked up a really sweet Dry Sump setup from Daily Engineering. This setup is said to be good for an additional 10 hp.

 

 

[Guest surferphil]

Wow, thanks for posting the picture of your old engine, is there an inter-cooler or charge cooler in there?

 

Do you have any more pics of the back side of that engine?

 

Dry sump looks like a nice piece of engineering too. 

[ronin]

Air/water charge cooler .  The charge cooler positioning will change a little for the new MP90 supercharger.

Edited December 17, 2013 by ronin

[rogerch]

Frank, you ever kept a tally of what all this cost?

Or would that spoil the fun.

[ronin]

Frank, you ever kept a tally of what all this cost?

Or would that spoil the fun.

Dude it's all R$D. If I tallied it up I would have to be committed to the padded room ward.

I do know it can all be done far cheaper now that the R$D is done.

 

If only I could go back to the future….. I'm tryin.  

[TBD]

Didn't you tell your wife she was your most valuable expense? Ooh, wait until she finds out how much you spent on the RS211! 

[Guest surferphil]

I want a mongoose engine! It's just a matter of tuning before it is able to open a Rosen bridge!

[ronin]

I'm not sure I will ever have enough tokens for the Rosen Bridge but I won't have to take my hand off the wheel as I cruise the tight twisties in search of the elusive coins..

 

A few years ago I used a Mastershift sequential paddle shifter and it was a perfect match when all was working in unison.

But by the time I discovered the fix I had gone back to a somewhat basic H pattern cable shifter.

 

Well what was old is new again and it's back to the future ..

 

I cannibalized the Mastershift box which included the controller and servo motors and cable attachment bracket. 

There are no shift cables now and the motors are a direct mount to the gearbox linkage.

 

This setup still uses a clutch peddle as normal but the gear selecting is all done with a push-pull rally type paddle mounted on the column so that the paddle is always in the same location..

 

 

[ronin]

Jezzus look how complicated the shift linkage is……………………Not

[Iconic Ride]

Impressive.

 

But how do you know for certain when a particular gear is fully engaged, and that you can then release the clutch pedal? With a stick and cables there was some tactile feedback, and with fully electronic paddle shifters it's all taken care of automatically. So, using your "hybrid" setup, are the motors (servos) acting on the linkages able to select the new gear (up or down) rapidly enough that "normal" clutch pedal use is still permitted?

 

Not being critical, simply curious.

[ronin]

Impressive.

 

But how do you know for certain when a particular gear is fully engaged, and that you can then release the clutch pedal? With a stick and cables there was some tactile feedback, and with fully electronic paddle shifters it's all taken care of automatically. So, using your "hybrid" setup, are the motors (servos) acting on the linkages able to select the new gear (up or down) rapidly enough that "normal" clutch pedal use is still permitted?

 

Not being critical, simply curious.

Here is the company http://mastershift.com

 

I've used the shifter before but had some issues with the throwout bearing and clutch fork of the E153 gearbox.

I found out after I took the unit out that it was the throwout bearing. By then I didn't want to do any more R$D and went back to the cable shifter.

 

 

So now I've cannibalized the motors and direct mounted them. The clutch gives you all the feedback you need and is used as in a standard gearbox. There are safe guards to prevent shifting unless the clutch is completely disengaged, over revs and missed shifts are prevented after programing the shifter ecu. 

 

It really is a great setup and I'll do a video showing how it all works as soon as I'm back together.

[ronin]

A smooth operator..

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=637620656279624&set=vb.100000950867981&type=2&theater

[TBD]

Looks very impressive!

[ronin]

Tommy it's as slick as a greased seal. 

[TBD]

Definitively next best thing to a dual clutch gearbox (but where would you find one to handle all that torque you've got).

[ronin]

I'm not even gonna look.. 

 

This all about me keeping both hands on the wheel on rough canyon roads.

[ronin]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDdW-mD6X-U

[Guest surferphil]

Ohhhh how I love that sequential shift!

 

It looks like a complicated problem solved nicely with very little weight added. I saw a demo of one in the Autosport show over here a few years ago and liked the thought of retrofitting it to a road car. More good work!

[ronin]

The system is actually lighter than the manual cable system with linkage it replaces. Just add lightness. 

[molemot]

Despite all I have written in favour of the simple manual gearshift...I really like this solution. It gets away from the "automatic" side of the flappy paddle set up, as throttle and clutch remain, and the shift system only shifts the gears. I've been fiddling with a gear linkage for a mid engined single seater road car for a while now...and this system could solve all the problems, and get away from cables too....

[ronin]

So I came up with a sequential bump shifter to occupy the old shift linkage spot.

 

Bump back for up shift bump forward for down shift ..

[Guest surferphil]

Does it also answer questions about your future? 

 

Are they the old gear cables (bottom left)?

 

Your seat looks like it weighs less than a pair of jeans too. 

[ronin]

Yup old cables get the axe today. The seats weigh less than their mounting brackets. 

[ronin]

The sequential shifters are in and ready.. Steering column push pull paddle and bump 8 ball.

[ronin]

I finally got around to making a proper right knee support for those high G left handers..