Tuned

[Alex Carter]

Sorry I'm a bit late to this topic I've watched the original vid lots . And now I've seen this I shall be watching more I see good work ronin

[Günter]

Frank ..good to see you had a good summer after all the surgery !

 

..so back again to your documentation

 

From the Engineering point of things:

We both know that there newer was a plan for 'mass production', and lots of miles put into a car like that with millions of same cars around the world ..right. So it does not count that steady heat transfer from engine/gearbox into those wiper(window lift) motors could degenerate the copper wiring isolation over time in the motor, or the harm the pre filled lubrication in those OEM gearing sections there on the motor gets from that. Even that with this setup, and the 'signal feetback' we see there, via those additional small black levers, that this means even more open and exposed bearing points ..who will get into contact with california dirt and desert sand ..so those will wear and run out of timing over years as well as all those other joints.

 

Anyway -from the DIY point of view it is just fantastic !

 

..but my 'spannermans eagle eye' noted the shiny 'plastic lock nut' there, directly on the main axis of the black anodised wiper motor linkage arms, this sits not placed in a good position.

So from my point of view (and as my old mechanic master-trainer would say) "this one you need to watch over again young fella !"   -there is no 'lock' funtionality on the plastic insert, if the bold it sits on is to short, until you now use additional glue or simply replace it with a more flat type of 'plastic stop' nut. Know what I mean ?

[TBD]

Ah, I recognize the German engineering thoroughness in Günter's words! 

[ronin]

Frank ..good to see you had a good summer after all the surgery !

 

..so back again to your documentation

 

From the Engineering point of things:

We both know that there newer was a plan for 'mass production', and lots of miles put into a car like that with millions of same cars around the world ..right. So it does not count that steady heat transfer from engine/gearbox into those wiper(window lift) motors could degenerate the copper wiring isolation over time in the motor, or the harm the pre filled lubrication in those OEM gearing sections there on the motor gets from that. Even that with this setup, and the 'signal feetback' we see there, via those additional small black levers, that this means even more open and exposed bearing points ..who will get into contact with california dirt and desert sand ..so those will wear and run out of timing over years as well as all those other joints.

 

Anyway -from the DIY point of view it is just fantastic !

 

..but my 'spannermans eagle eye' noted the shiny 'plastic lock nut' there, directly on the main axis of the black anodised wiper motor linkage arms, this sits not placed in a good position.

So from my point of view (and as my old mechanic master-trainer would say) "this one you need to watch over again young fella !"   -there is no 'lock' funtionality on the plastic insert, if the bold it sits on is to short, until you now use additional glue or simply replace it with a more flat type of 'plastic stop' nut. Know what I mean ?

Thanks Gunter... The sealed potentiometers for signal feed back are used on some GM gearboxes so there is no worry about heat transfer and the heavy duty gear drive wiper motors are repacked with high temp bearing grease. The mounting bracket is thin aluminum and does not transfer heat very well and there is good airflow in the engine bay from the side naca ducts.  Every nut and bolt is locktite in place and if it ever needs servicing the whole unit comes out with the removal of four easily accessible bolts. Remember these motors are covered and heat soaked in most normal applications . Mine are mounted in open air on the cool side of the engine and they are never run continuously. 

 My engine is always cleaner than the rest of the car. 

 

Dude I really appreciate your input and if you can find anything I have overlooked please point it out. I could use all the help I can get.

Edited January 14, 2014 by ronin

[Guest surferphil]

Gunter gets on the aeroplane...

[ronin]

Cool I love free help, spare room is ready. 

[Günter]

hahaa -Thomas

 

It is just what I learned, you know that over here we have a 'Traditional' edjucation system ..even in simple craftmanship or spanner works  (Handwerkskammer Prüfung/ IHK Prüfung) 

 

the thing with 'allways fit the nut in a way that there are at least two turns of the thread who protrude over the top edge of this nut'

 

Other point is, I have a electric lawnmover here from my neighbor   ..this damn thing failed 'just in time' 1 month after the legal 2year warranty period.  You know that we learn some ways to calculate 'life cycle engineering' -to minimise the kind of spit coat on the rotor winding leads into calculated fail after time, especially if a additional heat exposure is existent.

 

That is a special problem on full-electric brakes system, with electomagnetic actuators/motors on the caliper ..next to the hot brake disc for example

..as the most power of an electric motor comes if you pack the winding with as much turns as possible, but for that the isolation with spitcoat needs to be extra thin ..or you end with an unpractical rate of copper-windings vs. coating  -that influences mass and efficiency.

 

*

 

end of lecture

[ronin]

I've turned it up to 11.. 

[ronin]

So I picked up my new MP90 supercharger yesterday and we've begun the process of making the mounting and intake and discharge plates..

You can see there is a slight difference between the MP62 and the new MP90.

The discharge is now at the bottom in order to reduce some intake air volume and make for even quicker throttle response,

 

The MP90 was the choice for the GT3 I've been told.

 

 

[ronin]

Thoughts ?

[ronin]

I'm haven a hard time between the red and grey..

 

You can get a good idea what a 2" chop does to a 211.

 

Steppin out of the office for a little lunch..

[plumdeplakmuis]

Suggestion:

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/459975,17737/1961-Lotus-Type-19_photo.aspx

 

Although grey and orange on your 2nd pic looks cool.

Edited January 22, 2014 by plumdeplakmuis

[ronin]

I've decided it going to be Audi red...

[Guest surferphil]

Red better than Grey. I'd paint the beastie Yellow though 

[Bibs]

Very nice

[molemot]

Go back to the original Lotus colours of green with a yellow stripe....always classic!

[ronin]

I just wanted this version make its own statement. it's just so different .

[TBD]

There are so many Audi reds, make sure you choose the right one. I always like "Misano Red", which goes a bit in the Ferrari red direction (had 3 Audis in that color).

Edited January 23, 2014 by TBD

[ronin]

Charge cooler is coming together..

[Guest surferphil]

It looks like you are cooling the air before its compressed?

[Bibs]

Post turbo perhaps? Sounds like 2 chargecoolers are the answer! 

[Guest surferphil]

Ahh yes, I forgot there is a Turbo as well. 

[ronin]

All air is cooled after passing through the supercharger. Two coolers would be more restriction to airflow. It doesn't matter to cool the turbo airflow since the charge cooler is designed for a 1,000hp engine. I will be no more than a few degrees above ambient at full boost.

 

The new cooler has a diverter in the intake to insure even distribution across its core much like this.

[ronin]

After a little end tank redesign I think this will do the job.. 

Sometimes ya just gotta go with the flow.. 

[ronin]

New gauge layout..