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Flywheel timing marks


andmac

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Can anyone help with info on timing marks for crank sensor as I'm upgrading my S3 turbo to fuel injection with complete Lotus parts. I'd like to use factory setup so am investigating getting the flywheel machined to trigger the crank sensor. I think I read somewhere that there are slots at 60 degrees around the flywheel and one at 10 degrees btdc. Can anyone confirm this and give any info on size of slots etc?

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Here's some more images for you Andrew.

 

TDC:

 

tdc_02.jpg

 

My old flywheel:

 

flywheel_01.jpg

 

flywheel_02.jpg

 

It wasn't like that when it was removed, honest! It's been sitting in a scrap pile of metal in my garden for a very long time...

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Could do with a skim! :lol:

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88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

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Thanks for the pics guys. Can anyone tell me if the sensor timing slot for tdc is under the sensor when the the pointer on the bellhousing is aligned with the tdc mark.

In Travis pic of the sensor it appears that the casting which holds the sensor is fixed by the bellhousing bolt at the top. Is this the case or is the mounting casting integral with the bellhousing.

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Hmm, looks like I'll need to find a scrapped flywheel to copy the pattern from or get a technical drawing of the layout before I can go any further with this.

Thanks for everyone's input.

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What are you planning on doing with the car?

 

The reason that I ask, is that the 6 injectors on the Delco system corrected the fact that the motor wanted to mimic a hand grenade if it were held at the redline with the Bosch K-jet system...I talked a Lotus factory pilot who blew up 3 Esprits on the same morning.

 

If you're just after adding fuel injection, the Delco system may not be the way to go...but if you're after all out performance, you won't find a better system.

 

Which one?

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I'm looking for a bit more power with the benefit of fuel injection. I have the complete delco setup from an S4 including manifold plenum and injectors with wiring harness. I'm also fitting a manifold and turbo with integrated wastegate from a later car to do away with the problematic sticking external wastegate. I am also fitting a chargecooler. My engine already has forged mahle pistons and nicasil liners.

Andy

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The bugger was reading thru the wiring diagrams for the Stevens (GM) and mapping it over to the G Body. I found the easiest was to make copies of the specific pages of the shop manual, then mark the path of the wires that I was currently dealing with using different colored highlighters. The other bugger was to label each and every wire for future reference and troubleshooting, if required. I used one of those label makers with the self adhesive tape. The key to the conversion is to understand that GM seems to use a switch to control a solenoid, which in turn make the actual electrical connection. Whereas...the G Body does use some solenoids, but in most cases, it is the switch that is directly responsible for making the connection. The different types of solenoids and how they work is contained in the shop manuals. My conversion was from the Bosch K-Jet over to the Delco.

 

Are you keeping the Citroen transaxle and using the stock gauges? 

Edited by deecee
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The only problem that you will run across has to do with the stock tack. You will need an MSD Dis-tach Driver, Part #8913, in order to transition the signal from the ECU to the stock tach.

 

The Citroen box will take the power. but I ripped mine out because I wanted more braking power and there wasn't a lot of upgrade options for the solid inboard brake rotor. I also replaced one too many Nylatron washer and roller skate crank end bearings.

 

The flywheel that you're after is at JAE Lotus in California. I believe they have had flywheels made that have your crank end bolt pattern and with the Delco notched already cut.

 

To track down the sensors, look at a mid 80s Grand Am with a 4 banger. If you let me know which ones you are after, I check my engine and see what the Delco part numbers are.

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Thanks for that deecee, good info regarding the tach drive. Sensors I still need are barometric and crank plus frequency valve for wastegate and boost transducer

Andy

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Bad new on the flywheel. They don't have a notched flywheel that will fit an 86. When I did my project, I swapped the motor and tranny in favor of an S4S with a renault box. You might want to check with Fidanza to see if they can cut the notches into a new flywheel, your existing flywheel or can give you the specs.

 

I'm switching ECUs this weekend, and send you the sensor part numbers then. Keep in mind that you will also have to add a reluctor ring that acts as a speed sensor. The ring is fitted on the outboard cv joint of the Renault set-up. On mine (S4S), the ABS reluctor ring served the dual purpose as the speed sensor ring. The alternative is to have the drive shaft revolutions counted by the 6 bolts that secure the CV Joint to the spindle. John at WC Engineering can reprogram you ECU to acknowledge the 6 count, or I have an Lotus ECU that I can sell or trade, that he has already done.

 

You stated earlier that you are switching to an integrated turbo wastegate. If that is the case, then the wastegate is controlled by a boost control selenoid and a wastegate actuator. The selenoid is controlled by the ECU, which in turn controls the wastegate. I used a Tial Wastegate that was installed in the refabricated (recast) intermediate manifold section (I ran across a company in Phoenix, AZ that restores collector car exhaust manifolds, and did a lot of begging), as well as a blow-off valve. I chose to pay the expense of recasting, in order to stay with the stock manifold set up and the nasty assed 3" exhaust pipe. The turbo is a polished ball bearing T3/T4 Super Turbo done by a Garrett shop in Peoria, AZ. The Wastegate is controlled by an in car digital controller. The BOV pop-off is done automatically (I believe its set at 1.5 bar), and is controlled by adjusting the spring pressure.

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Thanks deecee ssoe good information there the tacho drive I hadn't considered. The speed sensor ring I am hoping to fabricate, but using the driveshaft bolts is an interesting idea I remember reading about a while back but had forgotten until I read your post.

Andy

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Why not use a notched flywheel off an SE or later car and get the surface machined and drilled to take the clutch plate and cover from your 86 car?

The flywheel will physically bolt on to your crank, it's the splines on the input shaft and clutch plate that are causing your issue.

You may even be able to get a clutch plate made up for you that is the same dimensions as the later SE plate but with the citroen spline centre.

Chunky Lover

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