What temperature should the fans come on?

[CharlieCroker]

Ok, so I've managed to take it out on it's very first test run albeit no more than about 300 yards and all seems ok. However once back in my drive I let it get hot, the temp gauge reading right on the line between the 90 -120 degrees. Where should that rest? The fans never came on, what temp do they kick in and how can I test them? Also the oil gauge was reading only about 10 at idle but on acceleration went straight upto 80 is that normal? Also noticed that the oil breather had a constant light blue smoke coming out, should I put a catch tank on instead? All in all I think it is getting ever closer to face off at the MOT just need to tie up these lose ends. Thanks, Charlie.

[markgenesis]

Fans in my car come in at just over 90 degree's so if its going up to 120 something is not right, test them by shorting out the wires on the temp switch, if they come on switch could be faulty.

 

Oil pressure sounds the same as mine.

 

A bit of smoke from the breather is ok, as long as it's not chuffing. 

 

What breather are you talking about though ?, the one on the block or the one on the cam cover ?

[CharlieCroker]

One on the block, I had a feeling the fans were up shit creek. So how do I short the switch, and where is it?

[Denis247]

Could be fans, could be relay/fuse.

Only sure way to check fans is to see if they run with 12v applied to them.

You have a wiring diag right?.

Can't help with location of fan switch,

Btw, how did the steering leak think go?

[CharlieCroker]

Steering leak seems to be resolved but I'm not holding my breath. Wiring diagram I have but it looks like spaghetti to me. The fact that the car is driving is a major result just need to get to the bottom of all these issues. Rome wasn't built in a day!

[markgenesis]

Fan switch should be at the top of the rad (will check on my car in a wee while), short the wires out using a split pin with the ignition on, the fans/relays may just be sticky with lack of use, when i first got my car the N/S fan was a bit reluctant to come on but is now fine.

[markgenesis]

Checked last night but didn't get back on here.

Fan switch is above the drivers side fan in the metal part of the top hose running along the top of the rad, you can access it through the gap at the front of the bonnet when the bonnet is open, pull the two wires off and with the ignition on join them together somehow, either a split pin or a short bit of wire, if fans come on it's the switch, if not it's then check fuses, relays, wiring, fans etc.  

[Don.Hasi]

so does the thermal/otter switch it look on a S2 and Excel until '92 (the MY89 has a slightly different otterswitch at the same location)

 

Concerning your breather... on your rebuild pictures is only a breather on the cam cover. Where do you have the other one exactly?

Edited August 31, 2014 by Don.Hasi

[Denis247]

"Otterswitch" ??, surely "Coolerswitch" is more appropriate?

[CharlieCroker]

@Don.Hasi the other breather is on the carburettor side of the bolck directly under the first carb. I'll try and get a photo.

[Don.Hasi]

"Otterswitch" ??, surely "Coolerswitch" is more appropriate?

No. Do a search on here or the www

@Charlie: thanks. Would be much appreciated

Edited August 31, 2014 by Don.Hasi

[CharlieCroker]

Ok so it's not the switch, did what MG said (crossed the terminals) and they come on nice and powerful too. So what next is it the temp gauge? Also I noticed that the water expansion tank is always full, shouldn't that level sink right down as soon as the engine is started, air lock maybe?

[Don.Hasi]

Mh... In the way MG said it, it could be just a faulty otterswitch or not get the right contact. Usually the switch is turned upside down and hold with an extra wire.

[CharlieCroker]

I think it's contact tbh, when I pulled of the terminal it had heat shrink practically the whole way down, covering most of the metal of the terminal. I've removed that now so the contact should be much better.

[markgenesis]

Mh... In the way MG said it, it could be just a faulty otterswitch or not get the right contact. Usually the switch is turned upside down and hold with an extra wire.

 

Yes, D.H is right Charlie, the fact that the fans run when you short out the wires means that the switch is'nt doing it's job and the rest of the fan system is ok, looks highly likely your switch is knackered old bean (providing it wasn't just a loose connection to the switch) 

 

B.T.W the breather you are refering to is the block breather, there should be a hose from that connecting to the back of the air filter box. 

 

At the moment the hose on mine is venting to fresh air as i have K&N's but going to buy a breather filter for it later or maybe an oil catch tank. 

 

Also you mention an air lock, this could actually cause the fans not to come on if the air lock is at the fan switch (the switch only works if there is hot water flowing past it)  

 

To get rid of an air lock, with the cap off, engine not running, heater controls to hot, squeeze the top and bottom rad hoses for a few minutes, should pump the air out of the expansion tank, this method has worked for me in the past.

Edited August 31, 2014 by markgenesis

[CharlieCroker]

Great advice, will go through those steps in the coming days. Regarding airbox, I don't have one, there never was one so I presume someone just added a filter to the bit of pipe off the block.

[mat grant]

on my eclat the PO had converted to K&N filters, and just left the breather pipe dangling in the engine bay resulting in a constant smell of oil in the car......

[CharlieCroker]

on my eclat the PO had converted to K&N filters, and just left the breather pipe dangling in the engine bay resulting in a constant smell of oil in the car......

 

That's exactly the setup the OP has done to this Elite hence the need for a filter off of the block. 

[CharlieCroker]

One problem after the next. So it seems now it was my fault, schoolboy error, forgot to fill the system with antifreeze! Anyway so I've got the engine running waiting for it to reach a high temperature to test the fans when I see what looked like smoke coming from the left light pod, so I investigate further. I now think I have a leak in the rad, couldn't find any leaks at any pipe but a stream of hot liquid is coming out somewhere. Bloody hell something else to deal with now, thought I was getting somewhere seems like two steps forward...

[mikeeech]

this is a bit late now and maybe it's the topic of another thread but waterless coolant? No pressure in the system at high temperatures, no leaking pipes or radiators... I though the radiators were aluminium cores BTW

[CharlieCroker]

Sounds bloody brilliant to me, is that the stuff wheeler dealers used on that Stag? I've seen it on eBay, not cheap though. But isn't it still a liquid, surely that would leak?

[CharlieCroker]

Here's the photo of the breather pipe on the block, any suggestion as to an alternative, however I have no intention of sourcing an original airbox, so maybe add a catch tank?

[CharlieCroker]

Anybody changed their radiator, if so is there a better alternative to the standard rad? And what sort of money should I expect to pay, I see SJS do a recon exchange for £175? 

[Denis247]

Std rad will have all the fittings. Even if you could find an alternative that would fit in the space, have the correct pipe fittings etc, what would be the saving?  Std is best, unless you're going bigger engine later in that case get it recored.

 

btw, mine is copper with brass headers,

[markgenesis]

That breather will be fine as it is, a catch tank would be a bit neater though (i've been eyeing up a cheap one on E-bay).

 

Are you running any filters at all or just leaving the carbs open ? 

 

Your Dizzy looks funny though, dont think thats original.