free hit
counters
HPK419V - Projects & Restorations - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Steve Cook

HPK419V

Recommended Posts

Well after being a member for a number of years now and contributing to others woes occasionally I thought I'd better put some pics up of my efforts so far.

post-10037-0-21738400-1410625001.jpg

post-10037-0-23110300-1410626644.jpg

post-10037-0-87481400-1410626688.jpg

post-10037-0-23586200-1410626712.jpg

So here it is first time out of the garage in about four years.

When it went in it had a seized 2.2 engine. It had stood for many years needed totally gutting.

I guess really the body should of come off, but my garage just isn't tall enough for that so it stayed on - it is a galvanised one so I'm keeping fingers crossed for it.

 

So why the bonnet bulge?

post-10037-0-70734400-1410626766.jpg

To clear the injection plenum for the 3.9l rover V8

post-10037-0-53121900-1410626837.jpg

I know its an outdated engine etc etc but the motor it was fitted with was "buggered" and I fancied something a bit throaty - it was always the long-term plan, but discovering the full extent of the problems with the 2.2 engine brought the realisation date forward.

So its a 3.9 V8 mated to the existing getrag box via a TVR bellhousing. This required hydraulic clutch so I went the cheats option and have the cable operating the master cylinder - visible in the last engine pic. Radiator has been recored, with twin nissan micra fans on an inline thermoswitch.

Exhaust is 50mm stainless with crossover section behind the gearbox mount, twin cherry bombs under the handbrake and then twin stainless cherry bombs for the rear silencers.

post-10037-0-77000400-1410627274.jpg

Ford EDIS takes care of the sparks, and injection and timing advance is by megasquirt - this still needs some sorting. It starts fine and runs but its not "sweet " yet, more tinkering required.

The engine has been stripped and rebuilt by me, new bearings and rings, high lift piper cam, head ported (I'm a whiz with a grinder  :geek: ) Carbon fibre intake trumpets and large bore inlet and cone filter.

Brake pipes have been replaced with copper lines and braided flexi's

Front calipers overhauled with new seals, rear cylinders and shoes replaced.

Front suspension is poly bush, for the rear I stayed with rubber (I 'm sure I heard somewhere poly on the rear didn't work too well?)

Wheels are MGZR with turned spacers. I have the standard wheels but wanted better rubber than is available in 14".

So its now moved all of about 30 foot in the 5 years I've owned it! 

But will go further soon as I'm moving house - hence the rush to get it started and moving recently.

Interior also needs lots of work!

post-10037-0-01849000-1410628591.jpg

post-10037-0-06612900-1410628618.jpg

I've bolted the seats back in temporarily for the move - the rest is just thrown in for now!

No garage at new house yet so have a shipping container to try and squeeze it into  :whistle:

Well thats all for now!

Steve

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

It's nice to see a v8 - this was, after all, what the car was designed for - a lotus V8 of course not a rover. Good work so far although I'm not a huge fan of the wheels but each too the're own. it doesn't look like there is a huge amount left to do though. when are you planning an MOT?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with Mike on the wheels, something a little more retro may work better? Bet it makes a good noise though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I must admit having got it out the garage and being able to stand back, they don't suit it as well as I though they would - however, now I have the spacers made I can use any wheels with the correct PCD without worrying about the offset too much.

MOT is a way off yet as emissions will be way off and  need to sort a center consul to house the switches - I've re-wired to do away with the S2 switches as half of them were broken and the fibre optic illumination system was missing.

Lights work but need to be fitted, then I guess I can see what it fails on!

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Steve!

Great effort, just keep going, it will be worth it when your rumbling down the road!

Wheels smeals .....dont worry about them too much just get it on the road and enjoy the drive! :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I changed the fuel lines for 10mm copper flow and return clipped to the chassis and fitted a swirl tank in the boot to make sure the fuel didn't get aerated etc.

 

I'm in 2 minds about the paint - it looks quite good in the photo's , but in reality its flat, micro blistered and chipped. I'll probably leave it for now and get the car on the road to sort the niggles, then decide whether to spray it (same colour) or whether to leave it as is for the original  "patina" look - even though its had a top half blow-over some time in the past. 

 

For now, the real decision is whether to satin black the bumpers or leave them colour coded? The rear is damaged as can be seen in the pics and the front is poor with peeling paint, chips and the corners are white where I think the car had a tarpaulin over it for a period and it rubbed the paint off!

 

What do you think?

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my personal preference is for the bumpers and sills to be black, not body coloured, the benefit would be you could refinish them without having to worry about colour matching the rest of the body (and vice versa). But i guess you've got to go with what you like best.....

 

Btw re the clutch solution - on mine I went for a full hydraulic system, on the grounds that it should be more efficient, but I've got quite a heavy pedal now, I think I've got the ratio wrong between the master and slave, I've got the master cylinder (AP racing pull type) directly on the clutch pedal arm and a remote reservoir in the engine bay.

 

I have different holes drilled in the pedal arm at varying distances from the fulcrum for different ratios so will try a different position. Failing that it will have to be a larger bore slave or a smaller bore master.

 

At least the clutch actuation on yours is accessible - on mine if the master cylinder ever fails it will be a right faff!! And if it leaks it will be leaking fluid in the footwell - I'm still thinking about what to do about that one....

 

Mat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matt,

I toyed with going your route for many months, but being a tight wad there was no way I was going to pay for a pull type MC and couldn't find a vehicle that they are fitted to as standard so gave up. My system is a bit basic and doesn't seem have much feel, though difficult to be totally objective on the short distances travelled. That said it is easy to get to and simple to adjust so swings and roundabouts I suppose.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too noticed your 50/50 clutch arrangement.

 

I've gone the full hydraulic route but by keeping the master cylinder in the engine compartment, see pics.

 

My clutch is a little heavy too, but It's caused by the location of the actuating rod on the pedal, I can't really locate it to give a better ratio/lighter feel due to space restrictions. You soon get used to it though, and with all the torque I don't need to change gears as often!. Then again I'm running a 3.07:1 diff, keeping the std Lotus diff I shouldn't imagine you'd need to change gears at all. :D .

 

Steve, your engine looks a little further forward than mine, your Getrag must be a little longer than my LT77.

Clutch2_zps78ff0dcb.jpg

 

Clutch1_zpsd290aa27.jpg

 

Hope the pics come out, been a while

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi I got the AP racing pull master cylinder second hand for about £45 plus post, ex a Nascar team. New they are £300 odd plus VAT - But I am having doubts about it's location (inside the pedal box) if it ever fails I will be in for a very fiddly job!

 

I am thinking of buying another for a spare in case it fails while there are cheap ones on the market, but AP racing (who are in the UK) say they do rebuild kits.

 

Denis - that clutch master cylinder solution looks good....

 

Mat.

Edited by mat grant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Denis,

I'm impressed! I looked and looked at fitting a master cylinder and just couldn't see how to do it, I then looked in the footwell trying to fit it under the dash, but again gave up due to lack of space.

As for the diff, at present its the standard 3.7:1 but I have an atlas axle and 3.07:1 gears that I plan to fit once the rest of the niggles are sorted Dan has done the same set -up and reports it works well. (I did plan on fitting it from the off, but I broke the spare lotus diff I was stripping - I was using the tubes from the lotus unit and bent the bearing carriers getting them out of the diff casing, more care needed next time)

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...