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Electrics not much working, help!


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Today is the first day of connecting a battery.to my Elite project car.

 

(This is the one that has stood outdoors for seven years and had a very damp interior)

 

When I switched on the ignition very little seems to work. I was expecting this but maybe not as bad.

Before investigating further I would like to ask a few questions.

 

Going from the basics could someone, or ones, please advise on the following and what route of investigation I should take:

 

Is the ignition warning lamp the only one that illuminates on the dash when the ignition is on?

 

On the column stalk I have the headlamp flasher working but no indicators, horn or hazards.

 

On the wiper side the blade moved about 10mm and stopped, the ignition warning lamp dimmed, linkage or motor? washers are working.

 

N/S window winder works fine up and down, O/S only goes down, Switch or motor fault?

Tomorrow I intend to change over the switches to eliminate them.

 

Heater blower is not working, not a peep, where do I start?

 

The lights pull switch is seized presently soaking overnight with WD40.

 

Looking for input guys.

 

Regards

Adrian

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A circuit diagram is invaluable. Got a Service Manual?

 

Ignition should, yes.  Fuel if low should show.

 

you may have to pull apart the indicator storks, and clean them. Not too hard.

 

warning lamp dimming indicates large load, so motor may have stalled. Pull wiper off glass to reduce load.

 

good luck

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Not sure about the S1 but on my S2 the horn, indicators and hazards all run off the same fuse. Which was also shared by the headlamp lift motors one of which had a fault. So when this fuse blew it would take out all the others. Don't know if this helps, I realise you don't have the lift motors on the S1.

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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A circuit diagram is invaluable. Got a Service Manual?

 

Ignition should, yes.  Fuel if low should show.

 

you may have to pull apart the indicator storks, and clean them. Not too hard.

 

warning lamp dimming indicates large load, so motor may have stalled. Pull wiper off glass to reduce load.

 

good luck

Good advice. I have a workshop manual I will see if I can make some sense of the wiring diagram.

I should have taken more notice of electrics when I was an apprentice. I always avoided it like the plague.

In later years I always left it to my auto elctrician to do it for me.

Onwards and upwards. I can forsee mega problems with these electrics.

Not sure about the S1 but on my S2 the horn, indicators and hazards all run off the same fuse. Which was also shared by the headlamp lift motors one of which had a fault. So when this fuse blew it would take out all the others. Don't know if this helps, I realise you don't have the lift motors on the S1.

Fuse box is clean and tidy, all fuses ok.

Thanks for the advice.

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Check the main earthing points, many of these share a common earthing point, and corrosion on a car that's been standing is quite likely. Remember, this is a plastic- bodied car and all earthing is via just a couple of points onto the chassis.

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An old auto electrician (who had worked for the RAF making wire looms for jets) said to me once "Don't even start working on your electrics, unless you know your battery is fully charged and in good order". Sounds basic but it's a great starting point. 

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Ignition light, seatbelt warning lamp, handbreak warning lamp and maybe the fuel low warning light should all come on when you turn ignition on.

I had/have a bad block connector from the wiper switch, it is just under the steering column and required a jiggle every now and then to make it work.

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Check the main earthing points, many of these share a common earthing point, and corrosion on a car that's been standing is quite likely. Remember, this is a plastic- bodied car and all earthing is via just a couple of points onto the chassis.

I know of the one earthing point down on the o/s of the engine bay. Where are the others? particularly inside the car where all the rust has formed.

This is the obvious place to start.

Thanks for the tip a bit more info required please.

Regards,

Adrian

An old auto electrician (who had worked for the RAF making wire looms for jets) said to me once "Don't even start working on your electrics, unless you know your battery is fully charged and in good order". Sounds basic but it's a great starting point. 

Point taken. Battery is new and fully charged.

Ignition light, seatbelt warning lamp, handbreak warning lamp and maybe the fuel low warning light should all come on when you turn ignition on.

I had/have a bad block connector from the wiper switch, it is just under the steering column and required a jiggle every now and then to make it work.

Oh dear I only have one out of four. I can see these electrics being a mega problem.

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Main battery earth strap is in the boot, bolted to the chassis down by the righthand side of the fuel tank.

I am getting a good earth here as the engine spins as I would expect. It does not fire up, that is another story to be tackled another day. Suspect Flowlock valve I think. I am going to bypass temporarily and see what happens. Of course that is after I have installed the new fuel pump and removed the stale pertol it's endless.

 

Now would you, or anyone else, know where the dash componants earth.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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And my Eclat also had a lot of water ingress so the motors for the heater box had rusted solid. I got a whole new unit from LotusBits and it's not a complete nightmare to switch them.

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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There is an earthing point on the top of the metal frame that supports the steering column, directly behind the dials. Once again that's on a S2...

Ok I will have a look for this although it may be the same it may not.

Thanks for the tip.

And my Eclat also had a lot of water ingress so the motors for the heater box had rusted solid. I got a whole new unit from LotusBits and it's not a complete nightmare to switch them.

That is nice to know. Thanks. What sort of cost if required?

Can not put it off any longer once more into the breach. The sun is shining and electrics are calling.

Report back later.

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About forty quid as I recall. Plus VAT and shipping. And on mine the handbrake and seat belt light are both wired into the handbrake mechanism. Under the rubber gaiter. The seat belt light doesn't come on until after the handbrake's been released.

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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There is a major earth just near the starter, and it feeds wires into the dash for earth. From there most things are daisy chained.

 

It is a bit like spaghetti, but not all that hard to follow.

 

Good chance some bulbs are blown. The are the small wedge type in the switches. You could replace them with LED's from ebay.

 

Ah yes, forgot the handbrake.

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About forty quid as I recall. Plus VAT and shipping. And on mine the handbrake and seat belt light are both wired into the handbrake mechanism. Under the rubber gaiter. The seat belt light doesn't come on until after the handbrake's been released.

£40 sounds a fair price if I need it I am sure he will have more in stock. I don't seem to have any wires to belt receivers or seats, not investigated the handbrake yet.

There is a major earth just near the starter, and it feeds wires into the dash for earth. From there most things are daisy chained.

 

It is a bit like spaghetti, but not all that hard to follow.

 

Good chance some bulbs are blown. The are the small wedge type in the switches. You could replace them with LED's from ebay.

 

Ah yes, forgot the handbrake.

I have not found this earth near the starter must look closer.

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On the S2 again but there's only a switch on the driver's belt socket, nothing to the seat or the oassenger side. The wiring from this runs under the carpet & centre piece to the handbrake. There's two female spade connectors there, one from the seatbelt circuit and one to the handbrake light. When the ignition is on and the handbrake engaged the handbrake light is on. Once the handbrake is off this completes the seatbelt light circuit which is then broken by the belt being buckled up.

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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This afternoon I have achieved something but very little. No fuses blown so far.

 

The electric window fault of going down but not up was indeed the switch found by swopping the switches around. At least I got the half opened window closed. Going to have a play with the dud switch later.

 

The non operating wiper just needed a helping hand and off it went slowly and only on one speed. It did show up a faulty wheel box which kept clicking and slipping indicating worn teeth and/or partial seizure. I have a horrible thought that changing it will be a pain.

 

I unseized the light switch both turning and pulling out. It did not turn any lights on though. When pulled out I heard a loud clunck from the headlamp area, such a sound that you would get from a relay, some power getting there then.

 

That is it for today.

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Hi,

 

On my car there were loads of problems, all the dash lights would blink off and on! As mentioned above, on my car the problem areas were:

 

- the earth on the pedal box, which is a spliced common for loads of earths of various stuff in the dash, removed, I wire brushed it and fitted a new crimp washer to improve it.

 

- the fuses themselves with the crappy spring clips (now fitted b lade fuses on my car, mounted inside the car.) To fix i used a wire brush, contact cleaner and bent them a bit to try to increase the pressure.

 

- the multi connectors inside the car that socket onto the prongs on the back of the fuse box. More wire brushing and contact cleaner improved this, but it was still suspect on my car. Stupid location for this if you ask me! Mine had evidence of water ingress....

 

Cheers, Mat.

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Hi,

 

On my car there were loads of problems, all the dash lights would blink off and on! As mentioned above, on my car the problem areas were:

 

- the earth on the pedal box, which is a spliced common for loads of earths of various stuff in the dash, removed, I wire brushed it and fitted a new crimp washer to improve it.

 

- the fuses themselves with the crappy spring clips (now fitted b lade fuses on my car, mounted inside the car.) To fix i used a wire brush, contact cleaner and bent them a bit to try to increase the pressure.

 

- the multi connectors inside the car that socket onto the prongs on the back of the fuse box. More wire brushing and contact cleaner improved this, but it was still suspect on my car. Stupid location for this if you ask me! Mine had evidence of water ingress....

 

Cheers, Mat.

Good advice. A few more areas to concentrate on.

The ref to the fuse box rear plug has started me thinking that this is the first place to start tomorrow.

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  • Gold FFM

Also check the big connection block which is just below the dash and visible when you remove the steering cowel, I had an ongoing problem with mine in that the pins were corroded and would come lose, I cleaned them all and opened them up a bit then they were fine, I could be driving along the road and lose ignition etc. Good luck.

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Also check the big connection block which is just below the dash and visible when you remove the steering cowel, I had an ongoing problem with mine in that the pins were corroded and would come lose, I cleaned them all and opened them up a bit then they were fine, I could be driving along the road and lose ignition etc. Good luck.

Yet another area that I need to look into.

 

Because I have so many failure items logic tells me that it must be a block connector or similar, or a common earth, at fault rather than the individual items themselves. I just have to find it.

 

There again knowing my luck it will be both!

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I took the faulty window winder switch, (opened but did not close the window), apart last night and found that basically it was worn out. The contacts were very worn after 40 years of use.

 

It needs replacement. Fortunately there appears to be a BL part number of 30497A2374 hidden away inside. I am thinking I should be able find one easily.

 

As an experimental temporary repair, and nothing to loose, after cleaning the contacts I slightly modified the moving contacts (meaning I bent them) and swopped them around effectively placing the worst worn contact against the least worn if you get the drift.

I clipped the switch back together and according to my multimeter it is now working both ways. May not last long but will suffice for now fitted to the n/s until a good replacement is found.

 

I think I will do the same to the switch that was originally fitted to the n/s to ensure some sort of longetivity.

 

As they say on Wheeler Dealers:  Result

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  • Gold FFM

Good tip is to get some Silicon sprey on the window runners, helps the window glide up and down a bit and takes some of the strain off the motrs, my old Eclat windows fly up and down now, far better than the esprit. I may have some spare switches if you get stuck as I bought a couple of old dashes when I was doing some restorations.

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