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1979 Yellow Lotus Eclat: My project thread - Page 12 - Projects & Restorations - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


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1979 Yellow Lotus Eclat: My project thread


soldave

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Curses!!! Did a rebleed on the brakes to make sure there was no more air in the system, and noticed this below (excuse the surface rust).

Smart money is on wheel cylinder leaking on the passenger side, but I'll probably just replace both providing they're not too expensive rather than replacing the seals. Looks like they are the same as fitted to a  Triumph Spitfire, 1974 Ford Cortina 1300, Capri Mk1 & early Mk2 with single piston so I'm hoping not too expensive. One of the things about rebuilding one part of a system is that it can show other parts to be the weak link.

Another bonus on rechecking is that after a drive the front wheel hub nuts needed tightening a little so there's no up/down or left/right movement in the bearing. A little tighter than I'd expected, but I know the MOT testers hate any play in that area.

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Yes defo replace the wheel cylinders, not expensive and i have never seen the point in replacing the seals on rusty/worn old units that are readily availible, fair enough on something vintage that you cant replace the whole thing but the lotus ones are not rare and would be a false ecomony not to do so,  imo.   :)

A

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Dave, having just taken my Diff out, I can confirm that taking out the wheel cylinders would have been 'awkward' in situ. Not sure if it is possible but it is much easier with the Diff dropped.

Have you had it out before? (The Diff!) If so, should be relatively straightforward BUT renewing the output shaft diff seals means removing the bearings/collars and all the joy that entails (read my thread for an idea of what to expect). If you haven't had the Diff off before then be prepared for some hard work - although easier with 2 people in my experience.

Anything else - just ask or PM

Good luck

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Well the plot thickens. Got the brake drum in question off this evening to take a look and found what you see below.

Looks dry as a bone at the top which would suggest that the cylinder isn't leaking (the shiny bit you see on the left of the cylinder is not wet). Very bizarre. To continue my run of luck (lack of skills) though, when I put it back together I found the handbrake is hardly working on the side I took apart. Looked through the inspection hatch under the rear passenger seat and there's very little movement in the arm; much less than the driver's side. I'm guessing it's something I've done while I've had it apart (maybe auto adjuster is now stuck), so tomorrow night the drive shaft will come off, followed by the drum, and I'll try to work out what I've done. I did try cranking the handbrake up and down a bunch of times and while the driver's side was engaging and disengaging, the movement on the passenger side was minimal.

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Edited by soldave
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Thought I'd see how bad the leak is on the rear diff. Opened the fill plug and the oil level was pretty much right there. Thinking it's only a small leak so will live with it for now but will keep my eye on it.

Car running well and hopefully good for MOT a week today. Only couple of things I've noticed are:

  • Handbrake has to come right up to get any bite at all. Probably needs adjusting which looks like a really fun job. I've got those holes cut under each rear seat, but it looks to be a hole inbetween the seats that I'd need to get to that area that you'd adjust. Or am I looking at it wrong?
  • Slight brake judder at speed. Need to confirm that though as might just be me being paranoid.
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Just need to make sure that oil leak does not contaminate the brakes Dave, Also if the mot chap picks it up, he may sse the area its coming from and presume its the rear wheel cylinders and fail it imo. If diff oil smells anthing like gearbox oil then you will be ok on matter though :)

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A

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Given it a really good clean at the bottom so you can't see any leak at all right now.

One thing I need to think about is the chassis a little too? While it's galvanised, some of that is coming off and there's some rust forming on it. Not a massive concern right now but need to keep it in mind.

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Axle stands,  a good degreasant and por15 or hammerite  and a paint brush and one of those dispossable decorators suits and googles,  Enjoy ! :thumbup:   If you look at Roberts thread on here with his gold elite,  Using a couple of concrete blocks as stands also gives you plenty of room to work underneath the car also.! 

A

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Not heard of por15 before but looks like good stuff. I've got a pit in my garage so won't need to keep the car on jack stands while I paint.

Waxoil after the por15 do we think?

Probably getting a little presumptuous. MOT first, rust prevention second!

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Lots of stuff about por15 on these forums with some great words been said about the stuff,  I think its needs good prep though, but if done correctly it lasts well apparently :)  I am a por15 virgin and have always used hammerite, the satin blacks nice and have also used the silver on my esprit chassis, cheap, quick and sticks well so will stop the surface rust dead in its tracks,  Just depends what your budget and timescale is,  Early car i.e non galvanised i would defo use por15,   But galvanized i would say you are fine with hammerite imo :)

A

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Dave,

The brake symptoms you describe could be attributable to not having the rear adjusters "adjusted up".

Adjusting mine up (stuck) made a hell of a difference to pedal travel and feel.


Dunc

 

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That looks great. :thumbsup:

You need to come down to the meeting we are planning in late June/early July to the London Gliding Club to recreate this

image.thumb.jpg.c899f1ba0672bc1c9043e311

 

 

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6 hours ago, Dunc said:

Dave,

The brake symptoms you describe could be attributable to not having the rear adjusters "adjusted up".

Adjusting mine up (stuck) made a hell of a difference to pedal travel and feel.


Dunc

 

Thanks for the thoughts. Are you talking about the adjusters in the drums? If they aren't adjusted then wouldn't it mean the rear brakes aren't working? Or would it mean that you need a lot more travel in the rears before they hit the drums (hence causing the increased pedal travel)?

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