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Replacing the Water Temp Sensor under Intake Manifold - What steps are required? - Induction/Turbo/Chargecooler/Manifold/Exhaust - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
MikieP

Replacing the Water Temp Sensor under Intake Manifold - What steps are required?

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Hi all,

 

Yet another problem - shop says the fans do not come on due to the sensor being failed and not sending appropriate signal to the ECU to turn on the fans. JAE new sensor supplied by me to the shop (at $38 my cost...)

 

1) Billed me $288 for Intake gasket - JAE quoted $18.20

2) Charged me $360 to confirm Sensor was bad, then

3) Billed me $540 for replacing sensor including draining and refilling coolant  and coolant for Chargecooler, etc. $1000 (125/hr or so) to determine sensor was bad and replace it. Is this fraud in this group's opinion?

 

Can this job be done without draining and refilling CC?

 

Fans do work now though, thankfully.

 

Sure do seem to have problems finding honest and competent shop here in MD these days. Wish I could post up the bill for your insights but not certain where and how - need your thoughts on it as I feel that it is mostly poop. Total was $3,686 as to its severity on my pocket. I.E. $64 to replace Check Engine Bulb..... and binnacle was not on the car but home for a re-dye.

 

 

MikieP

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You can see the sensor here post-17016-0-44726800-1396649068.jpg

 

As you can see, the sensor is not near chargecooler and can be replaced without taking the chargecooler off.

 

I think your workshop are taking you for a ride from what you have said about them

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It does sound like they are fleecing you.

 

It also sounds like they didn't know what they were doing, making mistakes and charging you for their ineptitude. I presume it wasn't a garage with Lotus experience?

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Treasured Motors in Owings Mills is the shop. Thanks for your inputs very much. They do work on Esprits on a routine basis so I thought they would be competent and trustworthy. Guess I was wrong, again. Is it OK to post pics of the bill for common consumption and comment here? Would love to get outside opinions to support my charge back on this.

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I would love to see that bill.

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Does sound very excessive!

 

The sensor is very easy to confirm whether it is working. The chargecooler does not need to be drained at all.  In fact the engine cooling circuit only needs to be vacuum drained a bit to do that job.

 

The diagnostic fee is excessive, sound like they want you to pay them to go back to school too!

 

 

$540 is excessive for replacing the sensor and draining coolant, especially after the diagnostic fee.

 

Was that $288 for the gasket alone, or including labor?  The intake manifold removal is time consuming, I suppose I could see a shop charging that for labor.

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Gasket alone! 912E2009R is the part number on the bill. 1.00 each. Will take pics of bill and try to post shortly.post-13088-0-21709400-1413152158.jpgpost-13088-0-20396600-1413152159.jpgpost-13088-0-15100200-1413152160.jpg The hose attaching to the dryer was found to loose by myself while monitoring fill at the sight glass after shop supposedly checked system for leaks.... The undercarriage bolts were at best finger tight found when attaching freon to fill valve prior to this shop visit and I tightened them prior to returning to shop that generated this bill. Cig lighter was installed on driver side three shop visits ago and mechanic  acknowledged on the wrong side. It did not even work after being billed as ground wire was left unconnected so this bill represents rerouting to passenger side and getting it to work. $120 twice! And it goes on and on....

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I wish, mate!  Unfortunately not fit enough to deal with it this year.

 

That bill makes me suspect that these guys don't know Esprits very well.

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These are pics of the new hand brake cables this shop installed after about 100 miles as I found them while trying to add more Freon to the car at friends lift. Opinions please?

post-13088-0-73921200-1413255382.jpg

post-13088-0-49394700-1413255383.jpg

post-13088-0-39023600-1413255426.jpg

post-13088-0-20106700-1413255429.jpg

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You'll need to use a clamp to hold the cables away from the wheels, and you'll need to readjust the parking brake after you move the cables. Moving the cables can actually change the effective length.

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No, don't tell me that.... We moved the cables away from the wheels about half way between the rims and the springs last Sunday but did not adjust the cables. Coverings are already worn through to the metal sheath. Did not know that might be required. How can I tell they would need adjustment? We also added additional tie wraps to lock it better in position so it would not slip back to the position shown.

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just if the parking brake works correctly or not.  It'll either be too loose to hold the car, or it'll be on when you release it, and the brakes will rub on the rotors creating heat and boiling your rear brake fluid....  Apply the brake, with the rear wheels in the air, and see if they don't turn.  Release the brake and see of the wheels turn again without the pads dragging.

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Ah ha! I think we did that after we relocated the cables but do not remember for certain. I have always noticed that this car does not roll on an slight incline while sitting as easily as my Venza... brakes seem to like not fully release until I start driving again. I am planning to take the car to my friend's lift next Sunday and take a front and a rear wheel off to see if my Saturn wheels fit on using the current bolts so will do this test once off the ground while there to be sure they roll. They did not feel as if they were binding up, but they did not spin as if they were on ball bearing either. Much thanks for alerting me to this new possible issue. Damn this shop.

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