Eclat front disc question

[soldave]

Getting ready for next weekend's job, which I hope to be replacing front pads and discs.  I've been looking at the service manual though and, am I right in thinking that the disc is actually on the inside of the hub?

 

If so, I'm guessing this means you need to get the hub off (which will make it a 2-man job if the brakes need to be held on for it)  

[Dunc]

Yep, disc is bolted to the hub. But it's not a two man job. You should be able to take it off on your own.

 

For cracking hub nuts, I remove the wheel, remove the cover, remove the split pin - fit a socket over the nut, put the wheel back on over the socket, lower it down then crack the nut off with a long bar.

[Denis247]

Are we talking FRONT hub?, this is on taper roller bearings, the hub nut is not tight, just nipped up to take up any slack. You could probably undo it with your bare hands.

The hub then just slides off the stub axle. 

[soldave]

Yep, disc is bolted to the hub. But it's not a two man job. You should be able to take it off on your own.

For cracking hub nuts, I remove the wheel, remove the cover, remove the split pin - fit a socket over the nut, put the wheel back on over the socket, lower it down then crack the nut off with a long bar.

Thinking man! Thanks for that

[Dunc]

I can't remember the exact socket size on the front stub as it has been years since I disturbed them on any of my cars (lotus or even previous dolomite sprints), but the stub is from a Triumph, so some googling should tell you what size it is. From memory it's not huge on the front, and the ones on the rear can differ in size (as I found out recently when swapping a shaft for one from my stores).

 

What I would say is try and take the grease cap off before you intend to start the job. They can be a 'mare to prise off in one piece and sometimes having a replacement to hand before starting is worthwhile.  I destroyed umpteen caps working on dolomite sprints as I always seemed to damage them with a punch or resort to putting a screw into them and pulling them out. Also worth checking if it is a castelated nut and split pin, in which case it is handy to procure a new pin - dolomites varied between split pin and nyloc depending on year, but I have a feeling all elites and eclats use the pin and nut.

 

Dennis is right and the front nuts shouldn't be very tight - either to take off or put on - but if you are struggling to knock them off, you can use the technique above which is for getting tight hub nuts off, as it gives you purchase to pull against if your on your own.

 

When putting it back on, don't go super tight. Nip it up fairly tight with your hand on a normal length bar  fairly close to the socket to locate everything, then back it off again. Then nip it again, then back it off one flat of the nut and lock it. The wheel bearings expand with heat, and need a bit of room, but equally you don't want the hubs hanging off. An alternative method is to nip it up until the hub starts to drag with friction with the wheel on during rotation, then back it off 1/4 turn (90 degrees) and lock.

 

The rears need to be F-T, but the fronts - surprisingly easy, then locked. Buy a tin of Lithium grease (castrol LM or equivalent to lube up the bearing when you refit. It's always handy to have the remainder of a tin for lubing bolts if yur doing your own spannering on it.

 

enjoy!