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Mazda MX5 headlamp conversion. Working drawing for Elite 75? - Page 2 - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/ICE/HVAC & Other - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
dixi4uk

Mazda MX5 headlamp conversion. Working drawing for Elite 75?

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Bloody brilliant, thanks for posting, one of my next jobs...

I am on it too.

I am so glad Mike (Black Eclat) has shared this now and not in 2009 when he actually did it.

Lotus ownership was far from my thoughts back then.

Mikes plans and photos are going to save many an owner much time and experiment.

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Yeah, I looked at TR7 lift motors before but I thought they were too bulky. I also thought I would try and use something more recent and widely available.

At the time a trip to the local scrappie confirmed that MX5's were plentiful. :thumbsup:

 

The MX5 motors also gave me the manual operation in case of electrical or mechanical failure. Thankfully I have not needed this option to date.

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Mike/black eclat, really valuable information. I'll plan to move to MX5 motors on my S2.2 Elite as refurbished TR7/Lotus ones are over £100 and not so reliable. I have one refurbished and one original so maybe not long to wait until the original fails - having said that sods law says it won't fail so a result either way!

 

Thanks, Richard

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Mike/black eclat, really valuable information. I'll plan to move to MX5 motors on my S2.2 Elite as refurbished TR7/Lotus ones are over £100 and not so reliable. I have one refurbished and one original so maybe not long to wait until the original fails - having said that sods law says it won't fail so a result either way!

 

Thanks, Richard

If you are wanting MX5 headlamp motors at the right price Suffolk Mazda are selling a pair on eBay at the moment for £9 plus £6.99 post for the pair.

That has to be a bargain.

It is where I got mine, my contact was Dave, a fantastic service had them in two days.

If you, or anyone, do buy please mention my name it may help me when I ask for the price of some front seats.

 

An added bonus of course is that you would make good money for your TR7 ones on eBay.

 

Adrian

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Hi Mike... great work and thanks for taking time to photograph and produce detailed drawings etc.  May I just clarify the base to centre line dimensions in your drawing of 'Details of motor fixing bolts'... There does not seem to be reference to this.

 

Thanks again..

 

Mike

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Hi Mike... great work and thanks for taking time to photograph and produce detailed drawings etc.  May I just clarify the base to centre line dimensions in your drawing of 'Details of motor fixing bolts'... There does not seem to be reference to this.

 

Thanks again..

 

Mike

 

Damn it.

I appear to have forgotten that measurement.

I will have to break it down again. :cry:

 

I will have it by the weekend if thats all right.

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Top work Michael.....!

 

^^^^^ nomination for TLF member of the week ^^^^^^

 

I would also suspect the mx5 items will be lighter? - the Lucas pod motors are heavy items.

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Top work Michael.....!

 

^^^^^ nomination for TLF member of the week ^^^^^^

 

I would also suspect the mx5 items will be lighter? - the Lucas pod motors are heavy items.

Gets a "Ten from Len"

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Top work Michael.....!

 

^^^^^ nomination for TLF member of the week ^^^^^^

 

I would also suspect the mx5 items will be lighter? - the Lucas pod motors are heavy items.

 

I see what you did there... This must be what it means to add lightness?

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Hi Mike... great work and thanks for taking time to photograph and produce detailed drawings etc.  May I just clarify the base to centre line dimensions in your drawing of 'Details of motor fixing bolts'... There does not seem to be reference to this.

 

Thanks again..

 

Mike

 

2ij4zfa.jpg

 

This updated drawing shows the missing dimension of the large 46mm diameter hole to the base plate of 109mm. This should be enough to mark out the plate for the fixing holes. 

When I did mine, I started with the centre hole of 46mm and the smaller fixing hole nearest the stop plate. I marked the remaining 2 by attaching the motor and marking accordingly.

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Thanks for the update Mike.... Really good upgrade to the poor series 1 headlights!! I have the mx5 motors ready for the conversion... Thanks again.

Mike

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That is just fantastic, Michael! I've already procured the motors and am building this brackets...out of composite, since I have no welding skills.  A few questions:

 

- What is the length of the M6 rod? From the picture it looks to be ~170mm

- Are you confident in the angle for the bump stop? In test fitting the bracket it seems closer to 35 degrees from vertical than 65

- Any idea of the amperage draw of the motors? It seems to me that one relay could be used for both motors

 

Thanks very much,

 

Scott

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Total length of rod, including rod ends is 213mm. Centre of rod end to centre of rod end is 190mm.

 

My bump stop angle is definately 65 deg from vertical. Thats what worked for me but it might be different for your car. The bump stops on the pod are adjustable.

 

I have no idea what the drawn amps are. I had a vacuum solenoid for each lamp pod so I used this to power a relay for for each motor. I went with the theory that if a relay failed, I would still have 1 operational motor.  The cycle time for each motor is only 2 to 3 seconds so current draw is low risk.

 

From some earlier posts, I think the green wire was used on the MX5 to allow the pods to lift without bringing the lights on, for cleaning purposes. I did not connect this and probably wont either.

 

Hope this helps.

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Just another thought. When my pods are lowered, the bump is slightly compressed so that I get a nice tight shut line between the pod and the surrounding bodywork. This ensures that the pod is in the same lowered position every cycle. I used stainless steel to ensure enough strength in the bracket for this force.

Just check that your composite brackets can stand up to this.

 

My welding skills are questionable but as the brackets are hidden, beauty was'nt a requirement. :thumbsup:

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Hadn't thought about the advantage of two relays, Michael. I'll stick with your plan. The wires on my motors have different color coding than yours...either a different year or because it's from a Federal car.

 

I'm only fabricating and testing one bracket for now. If it breaks or flexes too much I'll beef up the next one in the necessary places. My car had a bolt head as a bump stop (the rubber is long gone), so I've ground that round and glued a rubber cane foot to it.

 

Thank you!

 

Scott

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Any photos of the wiring at all, ie the relays and terminals you talk about earlier in the thread? Thanks.

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It would be a good idea to save and copy the photos on this thread. A print out in A4 size shows quite a few bits of the wiring in the background.

Also page 21 has a full breakdown of the wiring in detail.

Black Eclat did a wonderful breakdown. In addition the green wire is for raising the pods without turning the lights on for wash days. This would need a simple on off switch with a 12v non ignition live feed if used.

Piggy back terminals are sold in places like Maplins although soldering is more permanent.

Alternatively a quick fix would be those nasty blue blocks, very untidy though.

Can not post any pictures but they are all on here anyway.

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Cheers dixi, I've currently turned my attention to the rear boot, trying to tidy that up for the next show which may be the Duxford run. However I've ordered some new piggy back terminals and 5 pin relays and will wire this up (dry run) fully working with switch lift motors before I even attempt to do the conversion proper. Once I know it's all working electrically I will dismantle the pods and make the change. I love the idea that there is a 20kg weight saving by removing the vacuum canisters.

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I don't think you can dispose of both air tanks. I do believe one air tank has to be retained to ensure the heater works properly. I haven't progressed that far as yet.

 

There was a slight error in my last email when I stated page 21 for the wiring details, it should have been email 21. I am sure you realised that.

 

If it helps I have all the original boot trim parts including the battery cover if you need any help with replacement. They are all in terrible condition but are good enough to use as a pattern. I don't wish to part with them but I could do a paper pattern if you are short of anything.

Edited by dixi4uk

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I appreciate the offer but you should know me by now... I'm going down the custom route. I can see a fairly easy way to hide all of the boot area without it looking like a botched job. I've made up some panels that hang off of the rear hatch, they then inturn have a lip at the bottom which a boot floor panel will sit on. This covers up all of the tank, tank fillers and anything under the level of the rear hatch, it's not unlike the engine cover on the esprit. I'll post some photos of it in my build thread as soon as I can.

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On mine, the left tank is needed, but need to seal the line before it goes into the right tank, after all the heater vacuum stuff. The right tank is then superfluous in mine.

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On mine, the left tank is needed, but need to seal the line before it goes into the right tank, after all the heater vacuum stuff. The right tank is then superfluous in mine.

So what does the vacuum do exactly, does it just open the heater vents? If that's all they do then surely a mechanical cable system could be used if I were to completely remove the vacuum canisters?

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Hi Charlie. As i have said before i have done the mx5 conversion and its a doddle even the wiring. As for the left tank for heater controls. I am also looking at changing them as i cook in my car on a long trip.

Might see you at Duxford.

Regards Clive

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Ok chaps, I need a bit of help with the wiring. I've followed the instructions as set out ealier in the thread but I'm stumped at the moment as my wires don't seem to match with the original advice. Firstly I can't find a permanent live from ignition to go onto 30 on the relay and I don't have from my motors the red/white combination. I do have the white/red wire, but still no life. Lights seem to be working correctly though.

20150425_140707_zpsdt3w2fub.jpg

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Hi Charlie. I took my +30 feed direct from the back of the starter motor through a 30amp fuse. The colour of of the wires from the motor changed at a terminal block about 5 inches from the motor on the MX5 to the colours in the diagram i guess you have.

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