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Interesting Charge Cooler Pump Failure - Induction/Turbo/Chargecooler/Manifold/Exhaust - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
cammmy

Interesting Charge Cooler Pump Failure

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Hi Guys

 

Was seeing temps in Freescan that led me to believe my chargecooler pump impeller had disintegrated; so I ordered an electric pump kit. Upon taking out the old pump, I could see the impeller was actually fine. Nothing looked untoward about the pump at all. Grabbed the drive gear and gave it a spin. Spun freely enough but the impeller did nothing. Looks like something inside the pump has given out.

 

Just a warning in case anyone buys just an impeller without having taken the pump out first. The problem could be more than that.

 

Also, since I've disconnected the crankcase re-circ, I though It would be a good idea to clean out the chargecooler. I used descaling solution on the water side and put some white spirit in the air side and shook it around (after removing the MAT sensor). Judging by what came out of both sides, it needed it. Thinking I'll need to the the same with the radiator now. Also wondering if I need to work out a way to clean out the compressor on the turbo.

 

Old pump.

 

IMG_20141101_123117_zpsir5c1ro5.jpg

 

Blanking plug for the oil pump

 

IMG_20141101_123834_zpsndnvdtjb.jpg

 

IMG_20141101_130226_zpswjhnu3wr.jpg

 

IMG_20141101_140726_zpsz3b188w4.jpg

 

She refused to help at all!

 

IMG_20141101_150421_zpshsjwuslq.jpg

 

There were limited options for mounting the electric pump and being able to use the original hoses. This location worked pretty well. It doesn't foul anything and is very accessible. Will work on a proper bracket for it and get some new length of hose for tidier routing.

 

IMG_20141101_162956_zps4zbopu2r.jpg

 

By the time I'd finished, it was too late to get pics of it all back together.

 

The result. MAT readings of around 21 degrees with an ambient temp of around 10. The cooler itself is always cool to touch now where it never was before.

Edited by cammmy

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The keyed brass centre of the impeller has seperated from the rubber vanes, it's the most common failure.

MAT can be as low as 2c over ambient, give it another flush :)

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With this job I'd always suggest dedicating a bit more time to it and remove the boot floor, then mount the electric pump to the underside of the rear crossmember.

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Cheers bibs. I thought the vanes tend to disintigrate.

I think there's still a fair bit of air in there. Ran it yesterday, will pop the fill port on the top of the cooler to bleed/top up and repeat.

I forgot you could remove the floor to be honest. I wanted to mount it to a chassis rail but where the car was parked, the jack couldn't get it high enough to be supported on stands in the approved places (can't use the sill Jacking points due to the shape of the supports on the stands). Will look at better places when I have some new hose. Does anyone know the ID of hoses?

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The vanes do disintegrate but the centre comes detached when the system runs dry, so it's pretty common.

 

Siting the pump lower makes it much easier to prime. To bleed it effectively, either park facing downhill or jack the rear of the car up slightly and crack the bleed nut. Bubbles will burp themselves out, just keep an eye on the expansion tank to make sure the system stays nice and full. :)

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Cheers, I jacked the rear end up and powered the pump up without the car running (before wiring it in). I popped the bleed plug and kept topping it up to keep it level with the threads in the port. Will keep doing that. I also filled the outlet hose from the cooler and the outlet hose from the pump to help it prime before reattaching them. I think i'll be doing a full coolant flush in both systems soon, so will look for a better place to mount it then.

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