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I have a problem on my GT3 where my lights bounce up and down continually…… must be really unpleasant for anyone in front of me.

You can shake the light pods when they are up and there is movement there which looks like it’s coming from the rose joints on the actuator arm.

I am going to replace the link assembly / actuator arms which look like they are sold as a single unit of the bar, the rose joints and lock nuts.

Seems a bit of overkill when it looks like it’s just the rose joints that are worn?

 

So questions:

  1. Do other people have problems with their lights bouncing…… I have the same problem on my S1… recommendations etc???
  2. Are there any better / heavier duty options for the actuator arm which prevents bounce
  3. Has anyone sourced good quality rose joints separately
  4. Do I have to take the pods out to access the underside of the light pod

post-237-0-00398500-1415103146.jpg

 

post-237-0-24217600-1415103164.jpg

 

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You can get to the actuator link assembly very easily, undoing makes cleaning the pod recesses a simple task so I used to do it a couple of times a year.

 

Check that that's tight and isn't giving you any play. They're cheap to replace either way.

 

The other thing which happened to both of my Esprits what that the pivots that are set into the side of the actual pods ended up wearing away the fibreglass that they're mounted in and Simon350s fixed them on my NA which I believe wasn't a big job. You can just check them for tightness too in the first instance.

 

Oh, and to stop this happening, only raise the lights at low speeds. Flashing someone on the motorway for example puts a lot of stress on all these components.

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You could/should replace the rod ends.  Here is a post from a USA owner in 2009 about where he sourced his:

 

 

 

the actuator rods are sold complete, for around $75.00.
Decided to look farther first and figured out what rod end I needed by looking at   http://www.aurorabearing.com/
Since I needed the right hand threaded one, I came up with an MW-M6 Aurora item number.  When I did an on-line search for that, it bounced me to a bearing supplier that has an outlet in my town.... they told me the cost was $8.41 each

 

Another thing to look at when you have the rods detached is the rod's mounting area to the pods. The glassfiber can tear out over time. Best to inspect and repair, many owners have inserted a layer of metal to spread the load a bit.

 

10338346_10202297993432763_8773236483138

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The inboard end of the link is ok, I can access that no problem but do the pods have to come out altogether to access the outer end?

It looks like all the play is in the actuator arm rather than the bushes at either side of the pod.

 

SJ sell the arms but they are £47.16 complete + VAT + P&P

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OK... just bit the built and ordered them from SJ because they have them in stock and can ship today.

 

Can the pods flip backwards to gain access to the outer fixing point once the inner end has been disconnected?

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I hope the ones you've bought from SJ have the opposing threads, like the ones Punky has posted a link to. It makes setting them up a complete doddle..

yep... direct replacement i believe,..... with the exception that they are over 5 times the price from SJ :(

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You should also replace the M6 bolts (#26 in the drawing) with longer items that have a shoulder long enough to pass through the rose joint. The factory items are fully threaded, allowing play and eventual wear of the bolt.

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SJ's charge a 30% restocking fee.

Distance selling regulations not cover that one off? You can return within 14 days by law, no charges.

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Steve has it in his terms that he charges a restocking fee last time I looked but you're right. 

 

ETA https://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/index.php?mod=16

 

He actually charges 35%, and cares not for the law. 

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It would be interesting to see that legally challenged and see if he changes his T&Cs. Ultimately, if it's returned in the condition and packaging within which it was supplied he's no leg to stand on at all.

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Ouch!!!

OK done deal so every day is a school day!

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For information, it looks like the rod end part number is DGIR6UK.

 

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Its listed here but no price or availability against it but perhaps that is useful to others looking for the ‘Lotus’ part.

http://www.noc.ua/en/online-catalog-bearings/232-itemdescription-DGIR+6+UK.html?bearing=2a023b7769457f3b04&title=DGIR+6+UK

 

These rods from SJ are official Lotus parts according to Steve and they don’t go by the equivalent SJ number that he tends to use for parts he sources but who knows.

 

I would imagine that in most cases the rod its self is fine and it’s only the rose joints that are worn out. If so then perhaps we can find a good source of high quality rod ends.

One point to note though, I think the ebay ones look to be set in nylon but the ones from SJ look to be set in brass??

Don’t know if this helps in the longevity of them or not?

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As for me I will just be happy if I can drive the car at night without it looking like I am flashing my lights at everyone.

 

Regarding the M6 bolt. Excellent idea. Shame that Lotus don’t do this as standard, especially on the rotary link since the bolt is integral to the piece.

 

Where did you get your shouldered version of the bolts for the pod end from sanj?

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Where did you get your shouldered version of the bolts for the pod end from sanj?

I purchased them from an industrial supplier here in the US, McMaster-Carr. I ended up having to buy several lengths to find one that had a long enough shoulder, I think I ended up using an M6x45mm. The shoulder is nothing special, being just an unthreaded shank, most longer bolts have them as standard.

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Every day is a school day!

 

Ok did the job last night so I thought I would update you with a couple of points that might help anyone else doing this.

 

Step 1

Started on the drivers side.

Removed the ABS system plastic cover to get access to the mechanism…. Not too much room in there.

Disconnected the inboard end and lifted the pod up to access the joint under the pod and removed it

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All bolts 10mm with Nylock nuts.

Connection to underside of pod is bolt (25mm) – ‘L’ bracket No. 1(fixed to pod) – washer – rod end swivel rose joint – washer - – ‘L’ bracket No. 2(fixed to pod) – Nylock nut

post-237-0-71127900-1415367059.jpg

 

Step 2

I found it easiest to lock the outboard end rose joint with the lock nut and do the adjustment inboard at the motor.

I didn’t have a shouldered bolt as discussed above so I used a spacer as a short term fix to move the mating surfaces to a new part of the thread.

There was actually some wear on the thread where the rose joint sat but not a massive amount but worth changing bolt for a shouldered version anyway.

 

I checked the drain hole out at the time the pod was raised as well.

post-237-0-63355500-1415367143.jpg

 

Noticed that the number 2178 was written inside the passenger’s side pod recess … chassis number / build date code I guess?

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Step 3

I asked yesterday if the job could be done with the pods in place, the reason being that the passenger side didn’t seem to have clearance to go back enough to access the underside of the pod.

It turns out that there is adjustment on the outboard pivot that was set slightly too far back which meant that the pod hit the body when you tried to flip it back.

Backed off the pivot bolt, adjusted the position of the pod slightly and managed to access the underside of the pod and did the same as I had on the drivers side.

Much more room this side.

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Step 4

I adjusted the rod length by a half turn at a time on the rod end and then sat it back on the rotating arm … you might get a slightly better result if you were turning the rod with both ends fixed on their pivots but it worked out well for me doing it this way.

By rotating the rod, you would still have to disconnect the arm to gain access to the lock nut on the underside of the pod.

post-237-0-04951200-1415367419.jpg

 

That’s all there was too it. I noticed that there is still slight movement in the pods which looks to be coming from the rose joints at the pivot points…. Probably the outboard ones.

When I took the car out it was much, much better and I guess the slight movement in the light beam that still exists could be related to the car having fairly hard suspension to the average road car.

Still worth doing the remaining joints but for now, it’s the first time in my 31 year Esprit driving history when I have been able to drive at night without it looking like I was flashing my lights at everyone!

 

£120 for the bits but in the end of the day, really good to have it fixed….. best just forget that I could have done it for almost £100 less!

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HOW MUCH???      Even Boeing don't charge that amount for an aircraft approved part .(although they probably do)

 

 

Nick S4s

Edited by fflyingdog

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Nice one Gordon.

Just remember to search the Internet harder next time for a better deal! :D

I did have a look but i was keen to get it done ASAP so that i could use the car now that its dark.

I have bought a few "direct replacement" parts before from e-bay and found that they didnt fit so in this case i just cut to the chase.

"Let there be light" ;)

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Those rods seem expensive, I never paid that much for some I got a few years back at Donington Club Lotus event. I paid £10 each, reduced from £22 just for the event. I never fitted them because I sorted the ones on the car with a few mods and they have never bounced since.

 

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I added a washer either side of the ball centre with a big enough hole so it would sit around the ball, this stopped any side ways float of the warn ball. To stop end float I added a spring that always applied tension on the rod to the mounting bracket on the light pod. The system has worked for for the last seven years I've owned the car and why the new arms sit in the garage still.

 

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Edited by OwenGT3

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I don't know if the picture shows it, but the spring is under a reasonable amount of tension.

Edited by OwenGT3

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