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S2 '01 K series timing belt change - Engine & Ancillaries/Gearbox - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


S2 '01 K series timing belt change


ratcat

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After getting quotes to have the timing belt and water pump changed in my K series '01 Elise I have decided to (F#ck them) and do it myself. Has anyone here done it? How hard is it to take the clam shell off and will that help me? Any pointers DIY's etc would really help. 

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I've not done it but being a K Series there's tonnes of advice online...

 

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Thanks yes I know of this video. My problem is the amount of space one has to work with and if it is easier to take the clam shell off. I'm a little annoyed at this world at he moment - it seems the whole place has gone money mad I believe I really did have one of those 'Falling down' or 'John Q' Type of days.

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Really no need to take the clam off.

 

I've not done it on a S2 but its relatively easy on a S1 and have done two belt changes now.

 

I bought the SKF belt kit from eurocarparts and you get a good quality belt and tensioner - don't forget to get a new alternator belt as well.

 

You will need the locking tool which is available from ebay and a 22mm socket with a big breaker bar (the 22mm socket will need to be cut down as the access is tight against the chassis) and a torque wrench.

 

When I have a few minutes I will go through the steps that I did, but at no time did I think I wish I had taken the clam off (unlike replacing the inlet manifold gasket)


Ok just seen your in Oz so eurocarparts probably isn't your best bet for parts.

 

Try and get a Gates belt and a good quality tensioner though.

Kent monthly meet is the first Tuesday of the month at the Nevill Bull, Birling

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Agree, there's no need to take the clam off, but you do have to remove the rear wheel and arch liner for access, but neither are a big deal!

 

I bought a 22mm six sided socket from Halfords and chopped it down a touch with the grinder. :D

 

As shown in that video, buy and use a cam locking tool as it makes things a lot more simple. They're only about five quid and Eliseparts sell them.

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Thank you so much for your input guys this really helps me no end. Yes I have already purchased the Gates Timing belt, tensioner and new water pump. I will continue my research before attempting the job.

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Sorry I forgot to mention, Yes I have ordered a 22 MM low profile socket  but will turn it down further if needed - How do you stop the engine from rotating? Or is the cam locking tool good enough for that??

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How do you stop the engine from rotating? Or is the cam locking tool good enough for that??

Yup!

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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  • Gold FFM

Just to be clear - do not use the cam locking tool to prevent the engine from turning whilst loosening the crank pulley.  The tool is to aid with timing setup.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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You could always put the car in gear and pull the handbrake on hard. If your handbrake works well that should be enough for you to crack the bolt loose. The thought of locking the cams to undo the crank bolt worries me a bit.

Edited by Simon350S

Chunky Lover

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It's been a while since I've been underneath one, but isn't there a removable splash shield at the bottom of the bellhousng which exposes the lower portion of the flywheel? Wedge a large screwdriver into the flywheel's teeth.

 

Either that or expand on Simon's method but use a glamorous assistant to stand on the brake pedal with the car in gear.

 

 

As for the "Rear Timing Belt" are you looking at belt kits for the VVC engine?

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As said above don't use the cam locking tool whilst undoing the crank pulley... Don't even have it in place at this point.

You can place an Allen key in the ring gear to stop the engine turning whilst undoing crank pulley without undoing anything.

Kent monthly meet is the first Tuesday of the month at the Nevill Bull, Birling

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OK well thank God I heard from you before I attempted that! I don't know if my car is the VVC what is VVC? Variable Valve control? Mine is a 2001 K series engine that's about all I know. I have a Lotus repair manual on CD but the engine numbers don't match my car.

Hmm Maybe Bibs thought I meant locking the engine whilst fitting the new belt, (rather than undoing the crank pulley bolt)  maybe you could try all at once - Handbrake, in gear, glamourous assistant and cam locking plate, but I am a toolmaker and not totally daft and have a fair bit of mechanical aptitude so thinking out loud I feel that the locking plate would not be such a good idea. My Engine number is 18K4FN0GM474701

My service manual has 18K4F/M/L/H/K etc but no 'N'' although it states that the service manual covers M47 (in the prefixes) which is in my engine number. Is it cold in England now? Its getting warmer here, not even Summer and we are already having days up to 30C but todays cool thankfully, only about 17C at the moment just 7 minutes past midday.

Edited by ratcat
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Sorry, yup, misunderstood! 

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi GT111 - you said when you have time you will go through the steps you did to change the timing belt. / I got the wheels off wheel lining out rocker trim cover off and top timing belt cover off then I saw it, It appears that you need to remove the  engine mount, I cannot see any other way of getting the belt off. Is this correct. Are you able to go through those steps for me? Thanks in advance.

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Hi, yes it needs to go through the top engine mount.

You loosen both bolts so there is a gap about the width of the belt, then fully undo the first bolt. Slide the belt so it's between both bolts then put the first bolt back in and tighten it back to the belt width position. Now undo the second bolt and slide the belt clear. As the manual says refitting is the reverse of this procedure.

It's a bit time consuming but keeps the engine mount in the right position

So a quick run through from memory.

Remove your spark plugs

Slacken the alternator and remove belt

Pop an Allen key in the ring gear near to the right hand driveshaft and using the cut down 22mm socket undo the crankshaft pulley and remove.

Put the crankshaft pulley bolt back in to use to turn the engine over

Remove Allen key

Rotate engine with socket on bottom pulley so it's in position with all marks aligned on the cam pulleys and pop in the locking tool.

Remove the tensioner

Slide belt through the mount one bolt at a time.

Slide new belt on

Put belt on pulleys and fit new tensioner

Ensure marks are aligned and the right hand side of the belt is tight between the top pulley and the bottom pulley.

Set tensioner

Remove locking tool

Rotate engine with socket on bottom pulley, checking top and bottom marks stay aligned

Pop Allen key back in

Refit bottom pulley to required torque (quite high about 205NM I think but please check)

Fit new alternator belt and tension

Give the engine a quick turn on the key a few times... This is a final check to see if there are any unwanted valve / piston contact

Fit plugs.... Check again

Refit covers, liner, under tray and wheel.

Crack open a tinnie and celebrate a job well done.

I put a paint pen mark on the old belt at a position on each of the three pulleys and transfer these marks to the new belt before fitting, this ensures you don't get it a tooth out.

I hope I haven't forgotten anything and this makes sense, shout if you need anymore help.

Gary

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Kent monthly meet is the first Tuesday of the month at the Nevill Bull, Birling

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No cover to remove but it is tricky to workout where to jam it, there is only one spot it goes in near to the right hand drive shaft

If I can find a picture I'll post it up

Kent monthly meet is the first Tuesday of the month at the Nevill Bull, Birling

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Again, thank you. I did find it yesterday after a few minutes of searching but it was getting dark so I really only had a minor attempt at undoing that darn tight bolt - (with a specially purchased short 22 MM socket and long piece of pipe) - going out to finish the job once and for all shortly.

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