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1982 Eclat Riviera restoration...... - Page 8 - Projects & Restorations - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


1982 Eclat Riviera restoration......


Benco

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Hi I've just measured the channel holes centre to centre and it holds up 402mm which differs from the chassis details I have just posted. I have just lined it up with the one fitted to my S2 Eclat and it appears that it is the same so I believe that the chassis diagram is not correct. The spare one I have is from a S2 Eclat that I broke for spares for the race car so I know it's correct.

Hope this helps

 

 

 

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Thanks Dan, mine was slightly smaller by about 1mm, so I persevered and used the link arms to encourage the studs to come together and it fitted. 
 

Before fitting the shoes and drums, just a question about this spacer plate. In my disassembly I didn’t have these on either side. I presume they are needed? If yes, the manual is quite unclear on how they fit… does anyone have photos?

 

400A27A1-A1FE-4579-B425-067AB666BF82.png

Ongoing restoration photos on the Dropbox link.

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On 07/06/2021 at 21:24, eclat22 said:

The spare one I have

Do you need it Dan?, mine is badly bent and is on the list of things to fix, if it's just doing nothing! :)

 

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Things are moving well, I need to get the closed cell and sound deadening foam for the rear crossmember and tunnel respectively. Does anyone have a photo that shows where the tunnel foam needs to be placed (sides and top?) and the thickness of both the crossmember and tunnel foams? Thanks

Ongoing restoration photos on the Dropbox link.

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Hi Clive you are probably right, it will most likely sit on my shelf indefinitely. If you would like it make me an offer, it's straight but could do with rubbing down and painting or powder coating.

Regards Dan

 

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12 minutes ago, eclat22 said:

If you would like it make me an offer,

Hi Dan,

Yeah, one of those things you may or not use. Happy to relieve you of it, as a reference, SJ has them for £20, but let me know what you think is fair, and some postage of course.

I tried to send you a PM, but apparently you can't receive messages?

cheers, Clive

On 09/06/2021 at 21:48, Benco said:

foam needs to be placed

My 502 has foam just on top surface between chassis and shell.

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So I spent time in the garage today, hiding from the sun (but still v.warm which is lovely), under the car, scraping off all of the old sound deadening foam. What a lovely job, I ended up wearing my respirator as it was just amazing how the foam crumbles to dust with the slightest touch. Going to replace all of that with foil covered closed cell foam, probably 10mm (unless any other recommendations).

I also removed the totally rusted rear seat belt mounts, wow another lovely job. After trying different ways it seemed the best results were by cutting as much of the bolt off and the drilling the rest. Very happy these are now gone!

Final question today - I couldn’t find a direct replacement for the Tecalemit fuel cut off solenoid. So looking on eBay found this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224137006828 will this do the job? Or does anyone know where I can get a like for like replacement?

 

Ongoing restoration photos on the Dropbox link.

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Hi, just at the point of replacing the uj’s in the driveshafts. The new uj’s (HS163) are a very tight fit, and just slightly too big for the driveshafts. I’m cleaning up the bores where the caps of the uj’s sit…. Any advice/recommendations on cleaning these (rusty in places) bores? Is it worth reaming with a hand reamer to clean them up… if yes what size? (27mm?) 

 

Ongoing restoration photos on the Dropbox link.

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I covered this topic over on Excel.net a while ago.  The HS163 has the same over-all dimensions but is much beefier.  They fit both ends of the driveshaft itself, some of the outer drive shafts, but none of the diff flange yolks.  I had to machine the inner flanges to get them to fit - you need 59mm between the flanges:

1057281683_RIMG0395anotated.thumb.jpg.b398b29c67e315306b1472189f00ea39.jpg

 

I did this with a ball-nosed cutter on the milling machine.  I can see no other way of fitting them.  If you clean up the bores with a reamer make sure it is piloted to ensure alignment - personally I'd just put them in a rust removing solution - reaming is asking for trouble!

You can see the differences in the u/js here (HS163 on the left):

RIMG0393.thumb.JPG.8cafbb8eacefda9c5138cf71e0733856.JPG

Good luck!

Pete

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