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S1 Elite door hinge pin replacement. - Page 2 - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/ICE/HVAC & Other - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


S1 Elite door hinge pin replacement.


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Fixed. That symbol is a "non-breaking space" so I'd imagine you copy and pasted that from an alternative editor. :)

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Fixed. That symbol is a "non-breaking space" so I'd imagine you copy and pasted that from an alternative editor. :)

 

I copy'd it as a way of saving it incase there was a problem with the post but didn't paste. 

 

When i was previewing it a big black box appeared over the post but i posted it anyway.

 

No matter :smoke:

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Well done on a job I would rather pull my teeth out one by one with a pair of pliers and a blow torch than tackle myself. 10 out of 10 for effort and execution.

 

I really must agree with Charlie on this and thanks for sharing.

 

Unfortunately as needs must I have two hinge pin kits to do eventually, one worn, one seized.

Not looking forward to it.

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Cheers guys, pleased to be of use :smoke:

 

Text and pics could have been better but hopefully gave an idea of what the job was like.

 

In summary quite an involved job but not hugely difficult, time consuming and fiddly in places main thing is to expect rust in the beam and the window frame, if you cant weld be ready to buy replacement  galvanised beam, the thing about the frame though is the rust cant be seen untill it's out. but the frame cant be welded anyway so it's repair with Chemical metal or replace with a solid one. 

 

Before you start the job have a look to see if the nuts on the hinge pin are turning with the door, if they are the pin is siezed and the holes in the top and bottom brackets will be ovaled/worn which will need dealt with too.

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  • 1 year later...
On 13/12/2014 at 22:13, markgenesis said:

Even the frame put up a fight to come out, i had to cut through the inner door shell to free the front section (i'll post pics of later)

 

Also found it easier to remove the frame with the drop glass in place (regulator disconnected obviously) as with the drop glass lowered the lower section of the frame was getting splayed out, was having to force the frame with fear of breaking the drop glass. 

 

5PNP9T8l.jpg

 

Bare door shell, all thats holding it to the beam now is four ten millimeter bolts though i removed the L shape bracket completely from the front hinge, two bolts are at the rear of the shell above and bellow where the door catch was

Great write up Mark. This thread has helped me a lot today but I just can get my frame out of the door. Did your frame have this welded to it at the striker plate end. It seems to be a height locator that sits on to of the door beam? (The round circular metal rod nestling nicely by the top of the door!)

DSC_0087.JPG.2b52e0ac4483b3b21299b4556e9

 

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  • 4 years later...

I know it’s been a while, replacing hinge as per you. Really worried about removing the alloy strip on the window any guide. Also the outer weather window wipe strip is really rusted did you replace or repair yours any guide or source for these . Appreciate they contribute a lot to letting water run from outside of window to door beam if not in good nick. Thanks rob

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The alloy strip will need prizing off by getting a wide plastic spatula under it at the leading edge of the door. Don't force it too much but the clips are likely to be rusty and may need replacing. These are available from sj sports cars.

The window channel rubbers and the weather strip is available from Woolies trim. Again the clips can be found from sj sportscars.

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  • 6 months later...
On 14/12/2014 at 19:03, Denis247 said:

That beam looks like it's had water running onto it, arrange a plastic flap when replacing to channel the rainwater behind it.

 

There's plenty of room for the grease nipple mod, you may want to cut a few grooves in the pin bearing surfaces if you do this to carry the grease around. Best to mark nipple position on the beam before taking the door off to ensure it will be accesible with the grease-gun when it's all back together.

 

Oval holes on the brackets can be filled with weld and re-drilled, (I also welded a large washer on top)

 

I keep mine greased and have had no problems in the xx years it's been done.

 

Agreed, these mods whould not be necessary if Lotus did a proper job to start with.

This is an old thread... but a current topic for me... I have two new powder coated beams and would like to drill / tap and fit grease nipples... but where?? Also the new bushes... do these need to be pressed into the beam before fitting the pins... answer may be obvious to some, but just starting out hence the  question...

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Hi Mike

Fit the grease nipple half way down the the steel tube.  Either fit a straight nipple or an angled one but make sure it will be accessible with the door open.  Make sure the threads on the nipple will not interfere with the hinge pin when screwed in - are your hinge pins "waisted"?  Drill & tap before fitting new bushes - this will allow better removal of swarf.  

New bushes must be fitted first.  Sometimes the new bushes just go in nicely and also fit the pins but sometimes the bushes need reaming afterwards for a proper fit.  If they need reaming it is important that a piloted reamer is used to maintain alignment.

Pete

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