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alzmoore

Have I now got a failed injector?

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I replaced a failed injector a few weeks ago, the other 3 had a good spray pattern. Last time I ran the car it idled too fast ( as It always seems to)and used a lot of petrol. When I started it today ( in search of the trapped chicken), the fuel pump ran all the time and the car started and ran straight up to high revs. The only difference today is that it's fairly cold (-13)

I think I can hear fuel spraying below the fuel rail and disconnecting each terminal to the injectors makes now difference to the sound.

Another failed injector or ecu, or??????

I have attached freestanding run. Injector base shows as 9. Is that normal?

Thanks

freescan29 dec.csv

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Thanks but I think 4000 revs may be a bit too much. 

 

It seems to be significantly overfuelling.  I have removed the fuel rail and all 4 injectors seem to be pulsing the same, but there seems to be a lot of fuel going through.  I think I have petrol in the oil sump as well.

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I replaced a failed injector a few weeks ago, the other 3 had a good spray pattern. Last time I ran the car it idled too fast ( as It always seems to)and used a lot of petrol. When I started it today ( in search of the trapped chicken), the fuel pump ran all the time and the car started and ran straight up to high revs. The only difference today is that it's fairly cold (-13)

I think I can hear fuel spraying below the fuel rail and disconnecting each terminal to the injectors makes now difference to the sound.

Another failed injector or ecu, or??????

I have attached freestanding run. Injector base shows as 9. Is that normal?

Thanks

 

That data is no good.  It also says you went over 20,000rpm.

 

I can't really say anything about the data, since it, is bad, but it does look like your MAP sensor reading is wrong.  I'm guessing you  have a crack in the elbo to the manifold for your MAP sensor.

 

If you record data again, make sure Freescan is set to record every 100ms or less.

 

Connect freescan to the car, tun on the ignition but do not start the car. 

start freescan logging

 

Start the car, but do not touch the throttle pedal (unless it is absolutely needed to get the engine running)

 

Let the car idle, do not touch the throttle pedal.  Let the car idle until the coolant temp is at 82C.

 

Take the car for a drive while logging data.  Use all 5 gears and full throttle and boost if you can. Don't lug the car around in traffic, go on the open road.

 

Then stop logging data when done, and you can send me the .csv file

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Thanks Travis. Will try again tomorrow, but can't run it on the road so I have no brakes

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Ok, no problem. just run it from cold till it is fully warmed up with freescan recording at 100ms the whole time.

 

Let it idle, do not touch the throttle (unless you need to to keep t running).

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I am not sure about Freescan's conversion for the injector pulsewidth but you can ignore the high 9 and 8 values when the engine is off as the ecu uses a non running value at that time.

 

Regarding the excessively high idle, check for an air leak bypassing the throttle bodies.

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Thanks. I have done another check this morning. Can't find any obvious leaks (I spend a full day chasing/pressure testing a few weeks ago, after which I got smooth but fast idle)

Started it this morning and it runs straight up to 4200 revs and is guzzling petrol? Baffled

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I am by no means an expert but if you still have a throttle jack and ebpv valve still connected it can rev up to 3000 rpm on a cold start.

In my personal experience on engines.....high revving idle etc indicates an air leak. I would check all vacuum connections.

One area I would definitely check which seems to be a weak spot on the esprit is all the connections and pipes  on the charcoal canister. If any of these are split even right up to the connection on the roll over valve on the fuel filler neck, air pumps straight into the inlet manifold bypassing the throttle bodies causing very high idle problems.

Replacing all this pipework cured my high idle problems. The original pipework tends to get very frail and brittle after all these years.

Worth a look. Hope you get it sorted.

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wait...  Before anyone recommends replacing this, or removing that....

 

We need to see more data from freescan.  The data he posted above is not right at all, and no assumptions can be made until he tries again.  It won't help him telling him to replace his throttle jack, if the ECU is fried.

 

The freescan data was either a poor connection glitch, or something seriously wrong with all of the engine's sensors... aka the ECU.

 

Alzmoore needs to try and record data again, and then we'll see if it was a fluke, or a problem that he needs to take care of first.

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Alan,

 

Looking back through your old posts...  You have posted a few freescan logs, but most are very poor, containing weird or very poor data.

 

Here's the only slightly useful data so far.

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/67182-completely-baffled-now/

 

Still looks pretty weird.  Can you possibly try another ECU and MEMCAL?

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Thanks all,

MAP sensor connection loose and slight leak on by pass hose and now it sounds more like a car. It no longer runs right up to 4200 revs.

Travis, full free scan run attached. It still idles a bit fast. I think the throttle bodies have been previously dismantled and I wonder if that could be the root of my problems? I notice that the IAC GOES to zero when at temperature and I can't get the right TPS value without clamping it out of normal position. Does anyone know how they can be reset?

Thanks again, insanity was edging closer, I had a Basil Faulty moment earlier

freescan30 V2dec.csv

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sounds like Travis nailed it. 

loosen the screws on the TPS and with Freescan running, manually turn TPS until correct voltage is indicated per service notes (I think .55v to .7v) then tighten screws.  if cant achieve range, replace TPS.

afterward, run car to temp and verify TPS voltage

then observe IAC position counts.  there is a procedure in service notes to adjust IAC.  if adjusting the throttle stop screw is necessary, make very small adjustment, drive the car for a while, and observe IAC at idle at end of drive.  Travis is correct when he cautions against large adjustments as the engine thermal expansion cause significant and continuous variation in the actual gap in the throttle plates

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Thanks all. Hopefully the last freescan run doesnt show the Ecu is fried, as I don't have access to a spare. I will keep trying with the throttle/iac adjustment, and crack on with trying to get it on the road. Lots still to do to get to that point!!!

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